Thanks

Paul

 I'm about to go through a re-power and I just recently re-wired and installed a new switch panel.

 I am looking for the correct wire colors that power the helm for all of the switches and the fuel sending wires ( so I dont have to pull up my nicely sealed helm floor hatch.

 Anyone have any info they could share?

Thank you,

Here are some photos from a listing for one he is looking at. We are concerned about the deck cut out that appears to be under and behind the leaning post. I have a similar year 2400V that doesn’t have this and I’ve never seen it on other pictures of these boats. I will say whoever did this seems to have done a pretty clean job. The seller claims the deck has never been cut.

Do y’all know if the 2400s ever came factory with a deck cut out like this? This is a 2003.

Looking for a little advice and hoping you guys can help.  I bought a 04 Pathfinder 2400v in January of 2022 and have been slowly restoring her since then.  First time out on the water with her, I noticed the bilge running more than it should and water leaking in through the scuppers.  Upgraded to the Rabud scuppers and replaced all the hoses from the deck drains that had rotted out, and then replaced all of the plumbing for the livewell and pumps.

Next I decided that I wanted a T-Top on her to stay out of the sun and had one built at a local shop.  At the same time, I wanted to give the dash an upgrade and got custom toggles made along with a carbon fiber plate to cover the old holes.

After that it was time to call Castaway Customs for SeaDek and I decided to do their 13mil across the entire floor from front to back on the walking surface as well as all of the hatches with their 6mil across part of the gunnels.

Since then most everything else has been general maintenance on the motor and accessories.  I absolutely love my boat,.... but I have one new problem that is outside of my comfort zone.

Last month when I was running back in through the bay, I noticed some flex in the floor in front of the center console.  It's only happening on the starboard side when running over 45mph but it looks like the deck is lifting off the stringer.  

I stumbled across a post on another forum where someone had cracked a stringer on their 2400v and pulled the deck which gave me some insight into what's under the deck and what I might be able to do.

Based on this picture, it looks like the there is an area in front of the center console that the fuel line runs across that I could cut out to gain access to the section where the deck is  and then add wedges to create some separation, clean the area, and re-attach the stringers to the bottom of the deck with FlexEpox or other adhesive.  Then I could use a deck hatch to go over the opening and place my cooler back over it.

I'm thinking that I can access the area I want with a 14.5" x 29" opening.  I hate the thought of having to cut through the SeaDek that's already down, but I think that if I take it to a fiberglass shop they're going to want to pull out a much larger area and remove all of the SeaDek from the front deck.  It looks like I can get this done for just under $800 if I do it on my own, with most of the cost being the new hatch, and if my fix doesn't work, then at least I'll have an opening with a hatch that I can use for storage that gives the shop I take it to a better look at what I've got going on.

What do you guys think?  Is this something worth trying on my own, or should I just take it in and bite the bullet on the SeaDeck and fiberglass work at a shop?  Either way, I don't want it to get worse before I do something about it.  Any advice or experience with something like this on your boats is greatly appreciated. 

In general, stress cracks don’t usually worry me as it’s a 23 year old boat and they are all over the inside, but these are the first ones I’ve really noticed on the outside and wanted to get some other more experienced opinions.

So what’s everyone think? Should I be running to a glass shop for major repairs? Or hopefully just some gel coat repair?

Back in March, I purchased a 2003 2400V out of a barn in middle Georgia. I had been looking for a 2200, but my buddy found this listing and sent it my way, one thing lead to another and I was driving home with the boat.. The first few months of ownership were spent troubleshooting the original Yamaha OX66 225 engine (with only 460ish hrs on it) that did run, but with issues. It seems 18 years of ignored preventative maintenance was all being dumped on me and as soon as I fixed one thing, another popped up. Somewhat in this order, I replaced the following parts chasing various issues that would pop up.

-Low pressure fuel pumps

-Fuel filters, VST filter & screen

-Oxygen sensor (why are these so pricey??)

-Main relay 

-water pump, impeller, etc.

-thermostats

-poppet valve

-tilt/trim motor

I could be forgetting some, I tried to  "accidentally" throw away receipts so I'd forget how much I was spending on this 18 year old two stroke, but I digress. I now have some peace of mind and feel I know the engine pretty well. There are still some small things that I need to get to, but I trust her.

I've got a number of questions to ask you guys about how to fix some things and upgrades or ways to modernize the boat as I go through this process. Hoping to get new upholstery done this winter as well as try to rewire the boat myself and do one of the acrylic dash panels. I've upgraded to a Simrad GO9 and Fusion head unit but everything else is pretty much 10+ years old and need replacing. 

So I guess that's it to get started. Any things I need to be weary of or check on with these hulls? I know the potential for a leaking gas tank is there, scares me but I try to keep it dry in there best I can;. Wil follow up with a few pics of specific items I'm looking for some advice on. 

It's time to repower my 2400v and I could use a little help from you guys.  I've replaced my 2018 Mercury Pro XS 250 with a 4 stroke Mercury Pro XS 300 and I need a little help with prop selection.  I used the Mercury Marine prop selector tool, but I'm not feeling super confident about the results I'm getting back. 

Boat Type: Bay Boat
Engine: Mercury Pro XS 300 1.75 Gear Ratio
Boat Weight w/o engine: 1,600
Fuel: 80 Gallons
People and Gear Weight: 1,200

The annoying part is that the prop selector tool won't let me add in the actual weight of the people and gear because it defaults back to 500 lbs no matter what weight you enter so the only way I found to actually load the values correctly was to put the boat at 2,800 pounds.  

Here's the recommendations from the Mercury prop selector tool.

Somehow the same prop is the best choice for Handling, Top Speed, and Overall performance.  If any of you guys can share what you're running and what your thoughts are, I'd appreciate it.  Thanks in advance.

would anyone know the depth of the fuel tank on a 2001 2200V pathfinder?
tested my sender and it’s beyond repair. I know some have replaced with Moeller reed senders but not sure of the size? Any help is appreciated!

Im hoping there’s someone out there that’s experienced what I’m dealing with as far as my trailer goes. For some time I’ve been battling challenges loading and unloading the boat trying to vary launch depths etc. I’ve owned several boats and never been as challenged as this but the other day I noticed something. It appears  that my front chines drag across my front bunks when loading and unloading, also noticed a hair line stress crack right where the contact is-go figure.

im not exactly sure how to go about adjusting the bunks but I feel there’s gotta be some solution. If I put the trailer in deeper the bow lip does not clear the bow roller either unloading or loading which has proven pretty frustrating. To some degree I feel that’s why on the newer models they’ve done away with that lip.

any input would be greatly appreciate weather it be suggestions for adjusting the bunks or measurements. Thanks in advance!

Thanks. 

Having steering shaft issues on the old V Max 200, it's not worth the cost to open pandoras box and try to change out all the internals. I had a Honda 200 years ago and the current shop I use is a Tohatsu dealer which is just a rebranded Honda. I know the weight is a 100 plus pounds different, however the Tohatsu will not need the oil tank.

Engine (No. of Cylinder)6 Cylinder SOHC, 60° V6, 24 Valve

Output 200 hp (149.1 kw)

Displacement3,583 cc (218.6 cu.in.)

Bore x Stroke89 x 96 mm (3.5 x 3.78 in)

Max. RPM Range5,000 - 6,000

StartingElectric

Control TypeRemote Control

Gear ShiftForward - Neutral - Reverse

Gear Ratio2.0:1

Ignition System Micro Computer Programmed

Transom Height20", 25"

Fuel Unleaded Gasoline (87 Octane) or higher

Oil Type NMMA Certified FC-W® 4-stroke oil** SAE 10W-30 (SF, SG, SH, SJ)

Oil Capacity2.1 gal. (7.8 L) with filter

Weight*615 lbs. (279 kg)

Alternator Output12V, 720W, 90A

Programmed Fuel Injection Standard

Start In Gear Protection Standard

Thermostat Controlled Cooling System Standard

Through-The-Prop Exhaust Standard

Overheat Buzzer Standard

Oil Pressure Warning Standard

Power Trim and Tilt Standard

there is no way , other than cutting an access hole, to secure the nut to the back of the fitting. 
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My current approach is to just 4200 the heck out of it but I have some reservations🤨

thanks in advance

Starting to go through the boat now, and one of the first things to address, I am unsure of, are the seat cushions on the lids of the rod locker storage. 
 

I would prefer to go to a hard surface, possibly with Sea Deck. Something more like the updated design in the early 2000s models. 
 

My question...has anyone tried to swap/install the '02 and newer model rod locker hatch lids on the older 2200s? Are the dimensions the same? Does seem to be a few differences in the update, but lid looks like it could be a direct swap? Likely will glass one, but would love to save the work. 

any information regarding how your trailer bunks etc are set up especially in relation to the bow roller height would be hugely appreciated.

thanks in advance!

I ran it for a few months and it was ready for its 100 hour...  it was a rocket with 17 pitch props and would tag 58-59 MPH at 6200 RPM... however the motors were set too deep.  I put seastar Xstream  4" set back jack plates on it  had a set of 19 pitch props re-cupped and balanced... the rpms came back to 5800 or so and the jack plates let me get the engines up 2-2 3/4" at cruise. Totally different boat. yeah I lost 4-5 MPH on top but its still fast enough and with the twins its like hold on outta the hole.... what i cant get over is how good the thing is on fuel 2.8-3.2 MPG at cruise.  I can pull the motors up 6" for the skinny water here in the keys... 

mostly just maintenance items i put new lenco trim tabs on it as well... 

Im adding my radar Furuno to the panel, putting in the Fusion stereo head unit and garmin VHF and a LiFePO4 200ah house battery for the  audio power amps and inverter and running it off the F200's Isolated house charging lines,     

I picked up the Scuppers, Rabuds and Pop out hatches from Dusky.

I ordered a 6.5" bi-metal hole saw from Amazon. (use a heavy-duty drill with extra grip)

I figured no reason to leave the 23-year-old hose so not having a local boat supply back to Amazon.

I located the access holes at 10" in and 4.5" off the deck. (you can see the Port side is just a touch lower) 

You are going to need to bust some foam out, it was not hard with a hand spade. The 6" makes accessing the scupper a breeze.

I sealed all components with 4200, I figured I could safely leave the transom side of the suppers.

I taped the spacer block 10-24 and used stainless fasteners to secure the Rabud to that block.

You can tell there is an Oh Crap moment, so I had to remove and rotate the backer plate. I filled the holes and added some extra 4200 when I put it in correctly.

In the end, snaking the hose was not bad, the starboard side had to be cut in two as if had hardened and I could not fish it out. that 10ft piece was perfect. Had right at 13" left when I was done.

Total working time was less than 3 hours, I would but some 5200 removed in advance if I was to tackle them again. 

Nice having dry feet again. 

Jtburf is the name and a 2001 2200V is the new game.  Just wanted to introduce myself, some may know me from other forums.

Just picked up an older 2200V powered by a 200 V Max.  I mainly fish Galveston Bay and West Bay TX.  She has been banged and clanged so I added some new toys on her.

Added a Minn Kota Fortrex 24V 80# trolling motor, Minn Kota Raptor 10ft anchor (CMC Jackplates requires Sandwich plates from Minn Kota). Two new deep cycle batteries and a 3-bank charger. Just replaced the bilge pump (what a task)!! Rebuilt the SeaStar Helm and had Guage Saver repair the Tach and Speedo and replaced the switch panel when I received them back and I put a new Actuator in the CMC Jackplate!

That about covers it for now.

Thanks for the welcome!