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Sea Chest (Livewell) Cheese Grate SS Cover Replacement


Reegs2200v

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I thought I had this correct, but after reading some other posts I've received mixed opinions.  My old plastic cover broke apart at some point, I've purchased a SS cheese grate style, with the holes.  

Questions:

  1. Do the cheese grates point in/up or out/down?
  2. Do the bigger holes go on the side towards the aft/stern or towards the bow/for?

I originally thought the protruding grates would be used as scoops and thus face outwards, but I've seen mixed opinions.  When installed like this, the holes are in the front, which seems a little odd as I believe they are to release excess pressure when on plane.

Thanks in advance for your help!

IMG_3415.jpg

IMG_3416.jpg

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1 hour ago, Reegs2200v said:

Questions:

  1. Do the cheese grates point in/up or out/down?
  2. Do the bigger holes go on the side towards the aft/stern or towards the bow/for?
  1. Do the cheese grates point in/up or out/down?  IN/UP
  2. Do the bigger holes go on the side towards the aft/stern or towards the bow/for?  AFT/STERN
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23 minutes ago, Reegs2200v said:

Appreciate the help.  Got it reinstalled the correct way.  I had to drill 4 new holes, filled the old and new holes with 5200 in a syringe. Put a good bead line of 5200  around the plate.  Screwed in all the screws and wiped up excess 5200 that squeezed out around the edges.

Nice work!  👍

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  • 2 years later...
  • 7 months later...

REEGS22V,

I can't tell by the photo but is the flat part of the new stainless steel "cheese-grater" flush with the bottom of the boat?  I have installed several of these new and improved "cheese-graters" on Pathfinders and in every case I had to shim the mounting area of the boat approximately 1/8"-3/16" to make the "grater" fit flush when it was installed... Like you did, I then used 5200 to fill the gap between the Inlet strainer and the boat's bottom using a putty knife....

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  • 4 months later...
On 12/14/2019 at 8:23 PM, geeviam said:
  1. Do the cheese grates point in/up or out/down?  IN/UP
  2. Do the bigger holes go on the side towards the aft/stern or towards the bow/for?  AFT/STERN

In hopes of reviving this thread, I'll post my situation. I have a new to me 2009 2400 Tournament. While stopped and slowly idling, all the livewells work great. As I plane off they all become air locked. Put the boat on the trailer noticed the cheese grate is literally installed opposite to this. I am assuming this would be the most probably cause? Also, is there a better replacement for the one pictured? Thanks all.

Cheese Grater.jpg

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15 hours ago, In2TheBlue said:

In hopes of reviving this thread, I'll post my situation. I have a new to me 2009 2400 Tournament. While stopped and slowly idling, all the livewells work great. As I plane off they all become air locked. Put the boat on the trailer noticed the cheese grate is literally installed opposite to this. I am assuming this would be the most probably cause? Also, is there a better replacement for the one pictured? Thanks all.

 

It's pointed in the right direction, but is upside down so it won't "scoop" water while moving.  The "improved" model from MBG is shown in the picture posted above your post.  I'm not sure if MBG sells parts like that anymore.  Maybe a MBG dealer could get one for you?  However, yours will work just fine if you flip it over keeping the same end toward the transom as is now.  I would replace the screws with some new 316 stainless ones as well, and seal the screw holes with a bit of BoatLife Life Seal or 3M 4200.

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4 minutes ago, geeviam said:

 

It's pointed in the right direction, but is upside down so it won't "scoop" water while moving.  The "improved" model from MBG is shown in the picture posted above your post.  I'm not sure if MBG sells parts like that anymore.  Maybe a MBG dealer could get one for you?  However, yours will work just fine if you flip it over keeping the same end toward the transom as is now.  I would replace the screws with some new 316 stainless ones as well, and seal the screw holes with a bit of BoatLife Life Seal or 3M 4200.

Ok that's what I thought as well. Thanks for the input. 

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Other members may have a better way, but I would think it best if you could extract the rusted screws without enlarging the holes any wider than the threads.  Is there any part of the screws that sticks out past flush, that you could clamp a pair of vise grips on?  Then gently back them out?

If the screws are large enough to be drilled dead center with a tiny drill bit, and a smaller stainless screw torqued/tightened inside the hole just enough to get a grip, in order to pull out the broken off screw?  A reverse threaded "something" would come in handy.  Just tossing in ideas.  Tough situation though.  Good luck.

Edit:  Just thought of something.  In my Redfisher 16, the cheese grate screws actually went through my hull and I could see the threads of the screws along side the sea chest hump in the bilge (I know!  Right?!  I thought it was sh**ty too.)  You could see if yours is the same and clamp on a pair of vise-grips there.

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3 hours ago, geeviam said:

Other members may have a better way, but I would think it best if you could extract the rusted screws without enlarging the holes any wider than the threads.  Is there any part of the screws that sticks out past flush, that you could clamp a pair of vise grips on?  Then gently back them out?

If the screws are large enough to be drilled dead center with a tiny drill bit, and a smaller stainless screw torqued/tightened inside the hole just enough to get a grip, in order to pull out the broken off screw?  A reverse threaded "something" would come in handy.  Just tossing in ideas.  Tough situation though.  Good luck.

Edit:  Just thought of something.  In my Redfisher 16, the cheese grate screws actually went through my hull and I could see the threads of the screws along side the sea chest hump in the bilge (I know!  Right?!  I thought it was sh**ty too.)  You could see if yours is the same and clamp on a pair of vise-grips there.

Probably way more work than it had to be, but here is the direction I'm taking. I tried drilling out the old screws and that brought on its own set of issues. I decided to abandon that idea. Next I decided to Dremel around the screw stub in hopes of getting a good grip with some vice grips. I was able to get a good grip however the screw wouldn't budge at all. In doing all that I discovered that right under the surface was good metal and no more rust on the screw. Ive decided to Dremel around the remaining rusted stubs and cut off the rusted part. After that I will be filling in the dremeled holes with West System 610 to bury and seal what's left of the screws and sand the inner lip down to both remove the remaining 5200 and sand down the epoxy. I plan on offsetting about an inch from the original holes on the new plate and drill new ones. Still undecided on whether to use screws, or drill through and through bolt it in place. Anything, that's my project for the week😂

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