Rust Remover

[DavisIslander]

I’m getting these rust “rings” and would like to know what everyone is using to remove it?  Wire brush?  Toothbrush?  Chemicals?

Thanks!  Tight lines!

[fin-addict]

Starbrite rust remover. Spray on let sit a few minutes and rinse off. If needed a brush but no way wire if you like your gel coat.

[SouthernWake]

FSR

[KNOTNOW]

I use Bar Keepers Friend soft cleanser and a toothbrush let sit rinse off.

[HoneyB]

Looks like you need to pull the hardware up. Clean the fiberglass with the rust remover of choice. I too like bar keepers and even wink toilet bowl cleaner. Buy some new screws and reassemble with sealant of choice. 

[Headhunter]

I use the house rust remover I buy at Home Depot. Sorry I don’t have the extract name but it’s the stuff you spray on your house to remove rust caused by the sprinklers.  Starbrite  makes great stuff but expensive. This stuff is about half and works great.

[jim33042]

Bar keepers friend. Put a little on a brush (like a round dish brush or a toothbrush) with a little water, swirl it into a thin paste over the area lightly (pressure is not needed) you can let it sit for a couple of minutes or rinse and repeat if necessary 

[jim33042]

Eventually you may want to just replace those screws, as the rust will come back

[skoons]

Looks like the screw is the issue. Before you use any chemicals remove the hinge. Clean the area and replace With new screws and sealant.  Reach out to gemlux about safe rust remover as well. I’ve heard various products can damage and cause more rust in the end.

[bernieNC]

Cheap import hardware (screws) get you every time. 

[Fish Food]

Options:

1) Replace everything and bed with proper sealant, 3M 4000 is a good one for me.

2) Definitely replace the screws, polish hardware well(Flitz), reinstall with proper sealant.

3) Replace screws, use Super Stainless, reinstall with sealant. https://www.gemlux.com/stainless-steel-care

https://www.gemlux.com/how-to-boat-hardware-videos

I wouldn't use anything abrasive like sand paper or steel brush, soft tooth brush if needed. Rust removal spray for fiberglass stains and polish or Super Stainless for SS.

Good luck!

[DavisIslander]

Thank you everyone!  A nice project to work on when the wind whips up here in Tampa Bay! 

 

Appreciate the input!

[JakeK]

On 2/15/2020 at 10:52 PM, jim33042 said:

Eventually you may want to just replace those screws, as the rust will come back

definitely.  Even good quality 316 stainless steel will lose it's passification and once it starts rusting, it won't quit.  Remove, clean the stain, replace the rusty dusty.

[imsnookyrd]

Diversey_PassivationofStainlessSteel.pdf

 

Some good info

[Bamaskeet]

Great information imsnookyrd, I’ve been fighting rusty stainless steel for a while.  While Barkeeoers Friend works great, the rust reappears a couple of weeks later.

I’m ready to try something else.

[whichwaysup]

very interesting article.  So in effect, stainless steel is constantly regenerating the protective layer. Sounds like corrosion is a function of damage occurring faster than the metal can heal . . .  I wonder if there is a way to delay the oxidation long enough to allow the layer to redevelop?

[fin-addict]

Try shark hide. Understand it work very well.

[JakeK]

7 hours ago, whichwaysup said:

very interesting article.  So in effect, stainless steel is constantly regenerating the protective layer. Sounds like corrosion is a function of damage occurring faster than the metal can heal . . .  I wonder if there is a way to delay the oxidation long enough to allow the layer to redevelop?

You can wash it with acid to try and get a fresh, pure, layer of oxide on the surface to resist the rusting - but chances are that once the rust has developed, it's created micro fissures in all the crevices in the crystalline steel structures and the acid either can't reach those areas or the crevices create the ideal conditions for the corrosion to setup again.  Once it's rusting, there isn't a way to completely passivate it again as far as I know.

On things large enough to have an anode, install them.  I had to replace one of my 10yr old trim tabs recently because there was only 1/2 of the hinge pin left due to corrosion when a $1.99 anode would have kept it like new.  Before I ever splashed it, I put an aluminum anode on the replacement tab.  The anode sheds electrons (as it corrodes) and charges the cathodic metal keeping it protected from corrosion.

[whichwaysup]

29 minutes ago, JakeK said:

You can wash it with acid to try and get a fresh, pure, layer of oxide on the surface to resist the rusting - but chances are that once the rust has developed, it's created micro fissures in all 

On things large enough to have an anode, install them.  I had to replace one of my 10yr old trim tabs recently because there was only 1/2 of the hinge pin left due to corrosion when a $1.99 anode would have kept it like new.  Before I ever splashed it, I put an aluminum anode on the replacement tab.  The anode sheds electrons (as it corrodes) and charges the cathodic metal keeping it protected from corrosion.

Id be curious how you set that up/attached it if you can post pics

[Bamaskeet]

I’m wondering if the hard water we have on St George Island isn’t causing the rust problems.

[jim33042]

I feel it’s just a matter of time.  Salt water is not kind.  Get a group of flats boats together and just about every owner can point out one of those pesky brown spots and the related screw doing it or tell you the best place locally to by replacements.

[JakeK]

On 2/20/2020 at 4:13 PM, whichwaysup said:

Id be curious how you set that up/attached it if you can post pics

These anodes started corroding super fast - I left the boat in the water (in the Keys) for a week and the degradation was definitely noticeable of the anode.  I just checked Amazon where I bought them to give you guys a link (and a cautionary tale about making sure they're aluminum) and they either fixed the listing or I bought the zinc versions by accident because it clearly shows the zinc version under the part number I bought now.  If using in saltwater, use the aluminum versions of these anodes....they're super affordable and will greatly extend the life of the $140 trim tab:  Buying a qty of "1" gets you two anodes that are connected with a screw.  I just drilled a hole in the trim tab and installed them with a button head cap screw from the bottom (same type of screw that connects the tab actuator).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E1XV4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

 

 

[SCFD rtrd.]

Haven't had a chance to read the above article, but we had this discussion several years ago. I posted something that I found on the internet about caring for stainless. The jest of the article was that stainless has to be isolated from standing water. They suggested that s/s screws, hinges and other stainless parts be beaded with some quality caulk to keep standing water from reacting with the stainless.

[fin-addict]

I have always used zincs on my boats with tabs. Never had a problem. Also have them on my troll n tab skegs/fans. As far as stopping rust on parts, mainly in the bilge of boats. Many years ago a surveyor told me about a product that stops rust and turns it back to its orig material and can be painted over. Have used it on the pathy ped seating post holder under the front deck. No more rust stains in locker. Just paint it on. Would not used where it can be seen on the outside unless you paint the part. Good luck.

This is not the product but works the same. Used it in the engine compartment on a twin engine SF I had. Did not even have to sand the rust, but I did so it looked smooth. Everything looked new when finished and no more rust or corrosion. Can paint any color afterwards, goes on black.

 

[all wet]

Ospho works good on rust also.  It chemically turns the rust into some inert substance, then you can paint over it.  I used it on my Atlas jack plate actuator that was corroding.