Bruce J Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 The bilge pump on my 2016 2400 is not coming on automatically via the float switch. It’s also wired incorrectly, I believe, so that the battery switch has to be on for the bilge pump to work. But the main issue is that the pump is so deep in the bilge and the hatch is so small that I don’t know how to reach it. What’s the trick to servicing these things? Quote
FINCHASER Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 If its factory wired Id be shocked if the wiring is incorrect. To turn it on at will via the dash switch that I believe would need batt switch on, the float would not.... theres a test lever / knob on the pump housing to test the float feature. Cant help on how to get to it Quote
Bamaskeet Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 The float switch should be wired directly to the battery while the dash switch will be wired thru your battery switch. There should be a separate fuse to the float switch. Quote
fishmanjj Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 Put the plug in boat, and turn the hose on in the bilge....after the pump get submerged or the water gets to the float switch lever, it should turn on. You should not need the battery power on for this test. Sometimes it takes the pump a few seconds to come on once it’s covered with water.... or at least mine does. I test mine a few times a year like this. Quote
jh141 Posted April 6, 2020 Report Posted April 6, 2020 If you have the same pump as mine the switch is internal and the pump detaches from the base. I use a pole with a flat screw driver on the ends to release the clips on either side to detach the pump from the base so I can grab it by the discharge hose and clean the base, the intake screen and float switch. Crap gets in the base and causes the float switch to stick. Mine also has a manual knob to manually move the switch but it is very hard to reach. Mine looks something like this, but a lot of these pumps detach from the base for cleaning. Quote
Hutch03 Posted April 7, 2020 Report Posted April 7, 2020 Although there is nothing funny about reaching the bilge pump when I had to reattach mine to the mounting bracket Last week it went like this 1. Lay on stomach 2. Reach as far as humanely possible into hull w one arm 3. Reach farther 4. Pray you can get what you need to get one handed and blind 5. Repeat several times until your prayers are answered.... lots of threads about cutting a larger square hatch and replacing the small pie hole. Now I know exactly they do it....😎😎 hutch Quote
Bruce J Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Posted April 13, 2020 Thanks for all the replies. I have tested the pump by putting a hose in the bilge and filling it till it submerged the pump almost completely. I did it first with the battery switch off to see if it would kick on. It did not. Then I turned on the battery switch to see if that kicked it on, and it still didn't. So the float switch is definitely not working, but it didn't resolve whether my pump is wired correctly. However, the reason I thought it wasn't wired correctly is that I could only turn the bilge on manually with the switch on the dash when the battery switch was on. But Basmakeet, your response is very helpful because I didn't know the dash switch is wired through the battery switch, but the float switch is wired directly to the battery. JH and Hutch, thanks for the ideas on how to reach it. I'll get a screw driver lashed to a pole and do some arm stretching exercises or see if Manute Bol is available for a quick job. I love my Pathfinder, but have to wonder why something so critical as bilge pump maintenance and access hasn't received more attention and a more practical solution as has been applied to so many other aspects of this boat. Quote
Bamaskeet Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 20 hours ago, Bruce J said: Thanks for all the replies. I have tested the pump by putting a hose in the bilge and filling it till it submerged the pump almost completely. I did it first with the battery switch off to see if it would kick on. It did not. Then I turned on the battery switch to see if that kicked it on, and it still didn't. So the float switch is definitely not working, but it didn't resolve whether my pump is wired correctly. However, the reason I thought it wasn't wired correctly is that I could only turn the bilge on manually with the switch on the dash when the battery switch was on. But Basmakeet, your response is very helpful because I didn't know the dash switch is wired through the battery switch, but the float switch is wired directly to the battery. JH and Hutch, thanks for the ideas on how to reach it. I'll get a screw driver lashed to a pole and do some arm stretching exercises or see if Manute Bol is available for a quick job. I love my Pathfinder, but have to wonder why something so critical as bilge pump maintenance and access hasn't received more attention and a more practical solution as has been applied to so many other aspects of this boat. I suggest you find and check the fuse or circuit breaker to the float switch before you do any arm stretching exercises. Once you confirm you have power to the float switch, then unclip the pump and manual move the float to see if the pump kicks on. 1 Quote
Bruce J Posted April 14, 2020 Author Report Posted April 14, 2020 Thanks. I get back to my boat tomorrow and will see if I can figure that out. Quote
JRM Eufaula, AL Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 I have a 2400 Open Pathfinder, 2024 model. A second battery was added as a backup for the cranking/house battery when the boat was first rigged. Also incorporated dedicated charges for the two house batteries (2 bank) and the three trolling motor batteries (3 bank). I found that the bilge pumps (2) were wired to the main switch requiring the main switch to be "on" for bilges to work, manual switches and float switches. I am moving the bilge fuse box cable connection from the main switch post with 12 volt out, to the post with the positive battery cable connected. This will provide float switches and console dash manual switches with 24/7 power availability and also go through dedicated bilge fuses for both the float switches and manual switches. Quote
Waterman18 Posted April 12 Report Posted April 12 Usually the float switch is wired to the “hot” side of the battery switch, not to the battery itself. Quote
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