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Garage length and design thoughts


justfish

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I am in early stages of meeting with ar***ect to add a detached garage. Obviously I'm limited by budget but also by lot coverage and setbacks. Ssems as though I can eek out 20' x 28'ish maybe even 30'. I'm thinking 10' ceilings and 9' door. Plans are not to use it as an everyday garage, more of a shop/boat storage/gym. Plans are to upgrade to a bigger Pathfinder in next couple years so wondering what's some real world overall length numbers on 22's and 24's.

Since it will be used as I said I'm thinking a single 9'x12' door on far side and then a couple walk though doors on side near pool to lead a bathroom and storage areas. This will give the side closest to pool a more "pool house" feel and far side where drive is a larger door.

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Well, lets start with the dimensions. 20ft. X 30ft. Is that 20ft. wide and 30ft. deep? I have a 23 HPS with a swing tongue trailer and it takes 27'-4".

Check with the garage door guy about the ceiling height. It might take slightly more than 10ft. to accommodate a 9ft. door. I have a 9ft. door on my shop. Will look this afternoon and see what clearance is needed for the hardware and motor.

I installed a lift system in mine. Can lift the boat straight up off the trailer and remove trailer for service or to polish the hull. Maybe $600 total.

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What happens if you upgrade to a different pathfinder and it has a ttop? I'd try to figure out if you can make accommodations for that.

Bigger is better, so if you can do 30 foot then go for it. Allows more room to get around the boat as well. Take a 24 foot pathfinder and add 2 foot minimum from the motor sticking out, probably more depending on motor and jack plate. That puts you at 26 foot bow to motor. The trailer will stick out more than 2 foot on the front. It would be unfortunate to find a steal on a 24 and you can't fit it in your new garage

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Yes, 20' wide x 30' deep. Of course bigger would be better but that's gonna be max. Prob closer to 28' based on setbacks.

Got a call into garage door guy and will ask but ar***ect said it would work. Would like be able to get a Pathy or the like in without folding a handrail or powerpole... And a T top? Prob check out a folding option or it will be banished to the outside then. I'm imagine I'd need 12' door so 13-14' ceilings? Prob not gonna happen here.

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Well, lets start with the dimensions. 20ft. X 30ft. Is that 20ft. wide and 30ft. deep? I have a 23 HPS with a swing tongue trailer and it takes 27'-4".

I installed a lift system in mine. Can lift the boat straight up off the trailer and remove trailer for service or to polish the hull. Maybe $600 total.

Glad to hear you could get a swing tongue, I wasn't even sure they made them for boats that big.

I've seen your lift and its very cool! But I don't polish the underside of my boat! :susel:

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Just went outside and measured. The door is 9ft tall. The spring ***ist bar and ***ociated hardware is about 10'- 4". So, a ten ft. ceiling is going to be close.

I have a three bay shop. First bay is where I park my truck and it has a typical garage door with an elect. door opener. The second bay is for my tractor and riding lawn mower. That door is 6ft. wide and has no opener, just spring ***ist. The third bay is for my boat. Door is 10ft. wide by 9ft. high with a spring ***ist.

I can easily open the larger door with the help of the spring ***ist. So, in your case, you can save some money by using spring ***ist instead of an elect. opener for your big door. Just a thought.

With regard to swing tongue trailers. My boat, motor, jack-plate and trailer is exactly 30'- 4". When I swing the tongue back it's 27'- 4 ". So, you save right at 36" with a swing tongue.

Another thought; a 23 hps is exactly 24' from end to end. So, if a 24 Pathfinder is exactly 24' the dimensions will be the same as stated above.

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Build the absolute largest barn you can based on property, set backs and budget.

You only get one shot at this.

Do it right and plan for it to be a structure to meet your needs way down the road.

You don't want to raise the roof or modify the doors after the fact.. That never works and it will cost you dollars and a ton of headaches.

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I would verify on your own....if ar***ect is not a fisherman he just might not understand how important this is. Although being an engineer I am a bit skeptical of ar***ects! Go as big a you can, and remember T-tops, windshields, all that high stuff. My new (to me) Hewes sits all skewed in my garage, but it is inside and I am loving it! Good luck and enjoy!

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I have a 24TRS and it just fits in my garage which is 28ft deep. The total length of boat on trailer is 27'4" (swing tongue trailer)

A couple of thoughts: make sure your dimensions are interior floor space, inside wall to door and not measuring from the outside. Also some of the larger garage doors will have horizontal braces that cane extend out up to six inches.

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Just as important as height of overhead door, you need to consider width. Go as WIDE as possible. Get it two foot wider than standard. I have several different size OH doors at my warehouse and shops. Park my 20' Pathy in one of the smaller ones and my pole/guide lights almost rub going in and out. Well... maybe they do from time to time. The larger bays are definitely much more stress free to navigate. The length of the bay is 35' and it is plenty of room to walk between prop and a 4' deep cabinet/bench behind the boat. Also have a few feet in front of tongue. Width of the room is somewhat tight but I have shelves built up above the gunnels so I can load and unload stuff while in the boat if needed. My rod racks are up there too. Can access from boat or ground. Will try to remember to get actual dims tomorrow. Oh yeah... GO WIDE on the door. It isn't that much more expensive and you don't get a do-over.

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Also pay attention to the grade (pitch) of the driveway. A sloped grade up towards the overhead garage door will increase the rear height of your rig. My MA17 should fit perfectly under my garage door on flat level ground, however the slope of my driveway raised the poling platform and it doesn't fit when hooked to my truck backing it in. I have to use the trailer jack to raise the bow and this lowers the rear of the boat to fit it under the garage door. This may not affect your rig, but something to keep in mind.

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My garage door for the boat is 10' wide and that leaves about 4" on either side to negotiate the opening. Would definitely recommend 11' or 12' wide door. Another thing that will help you when backing into the garage is to paint a stripe on the concrete floor. With the stripe, you don't have to watch both sides of the opening, just line-up the drivers side on the stripe and you know you will clear both sides. You'll have to experiment a little to determine the exact parking spot.

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Have a detached that is 26 deep by 25 wide. I have a 18 Redfisher and it fits well with room to spare. Ceiling is 10 ft. and garage door is a single with upgraded opener. Wife's car sits in the garage and truck outside. Wish I had room for a larger structure but finances and setbacks didn't allow. This setup works well for now.

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