MBGNole Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 Hey guys, I am just looking for some other eyes on this. I emailed Ultra Safety Systems, but I don't figure I will hear back from them till next week. I have rewired my Pathfinder 1900V and I am replacing the old rulemate automatic bilge pumps. I decided to install an Ultra Safety Systems Mini Float Switch and 2 Johnson 1000 GPH Cartridge Bilge Pumps. I did not want to use an automatic/manual switch and I wanted the manual circuits to be independent of one another. So I am using a DPST switch for manual operation and I want to wire the Mini (fused) straight to the battery side of my battery switch. I would like the float switch to activate both of the pumps (they each draw 3.2 A). I attached a drawing of how I thought this could be done. Any thoughts on this are appreciated. In particular: Is there an issue running the mini's negative from one of the pump's 14 gauge negative wires? Should I run each pump off a separate Mini brown wire, or off the same one? Lastly, there is an LED on the manual dash switch that lights when you turn the pumps on. Will this LED turn on when the switch is off, but the Mini activates the pumps? Thank you for your help and Happy New Year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 I would run them on two separate systems.... I had two bilge pumps on my 22 pathy 1.) standard set up 2.) back up ran next to the first but but mounted a bit higher and the discharge was out the splash well... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 I would not run two pumps on one float switch because the float switch is always the weak link in that system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 1 hour ago, Bamaskeet said: I would not run two pumps on one float switch because the float switch is always the weak link in that system. I was not clear....yes dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 I installed a second bilge pump in my 23 HPS. Everything is separate; separate batteries to supply power, separate wiring, fuses, pumps (with internal float switches) and separate switches on the switch panel. If the second bilge pump is a back-up pump for safety reasons, then you want everything separate or independent of the other. My second bilge pump is not connected to the battery switch because, occasionally they fail. The LED light on the switch should light-up anytime power is transferred through the switch. From the factory my bilge pump was installed similar to your diagram, but the second pump is powered by one of the trolling motor batteries, the negative does not connect the the negative bus bar, this makes it 100% independent of the original bilge pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBGNole Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Thanks guys! My intent is to have a reliable and redundant system so I appreciate all the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 9 hours ago, MBGNole said: My intent is to have a reliable and redundant system so I appreciate all the advice. The same as others said, seperate switch for each pump and seperate float switch for each pump to make it truly redundant. All it takes is the cut off piece of zip tie left in the bilge to jam up a float switch, or any piece of debris for that fact, then it does'nt matter how many bilge pumps you have running off of one float switch, you're going down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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