2200v with Yamaha 225 SHO

[Chance]

Have never liked the 4 blade prop that came with the motor. Always felt it was propped wrong but my father never wanted to change it. He had alzheimers and was set in his ways.  Anyway the prop always felt like it was slipping a ton getting out of the hole then was missing on the high end.  

 

Is anyone here running a Mercury Mirage Plus 21p on this kind of setup?  I already have the prop (ebay purchase for another boat) but waiting on my PVS plus to show up and haven't put it on the motor yet. Just wondering how the three blade hole shot would be and if it would still hit the RPMs it needs. 

[HoneyB]

It would be easier to make the comparison if you gave information on what type of four blade prop as well as rpm’s does speed at wot. 
 In general the mirage plus is not a very special prop. I think built more to run heavy boats that run deep in the water. I think actually geared more toward inboard outboard boats.  It may run better than what you have because I have no idea what you have. If you want a three blade prop the tempest plus is built to lift stern heavy boats and go fast. I have also had good results from the mercury Enertia 3 blade props. 
 The mirage i thing is smaller diameter than those so the smaller blades my spin up quickly and offer you high rpm at wot. 
 Personally I like the tempest plus and the enertia but I have found the 4 blades do as good or better. The Bravo1 fs is popular on the sho engines and I also run a Yamaha HS4 that runs very well on my boat.

 For comparison sake I run a 2200 TRS with a SHO as well. I have run a lot of props. I only ever hated one of them. 
 

[BradM]

On 6/6/2021 at 6:39 PM, HoneyB said:

It would be easier to make the comparison if you gave information on what type of four blade prop as well as rpm’s does speed at wot. 
 In general the mirage plus is not a very special prop. I think built more to run heavy boats that run deep in the water. I think actually geared more toward inboard outboard boats.  It may run better than what you have because I have no idea what you have. If you want a three blade prop the tempest plus is built to lift stern heavy boats and go fast. I have also had good results from the mercury Enertia 3 blade props. 
 The mirage i thing is smaller diameter than those so the smaller blades my spin up quickly and offer you high rpm at wot. 
 Personally I like the tempest plus and the enertia but I have found the 4 blades do as good or better. The Bravo1 fs is popular on the sho engines and I also run a Yamaha HS4 that runs very well on my boat.

 For comparison sake I run a 2200 TRS with a SHO as well. I have run a lot of props. I only ever hated one of them. 
 

Out of curiosity, which one did you like the least (hate)? 

[HoneyB]

Doesn’t seem to matter as the OP had no responce. But since your asking the three blade ofx did not work on my boat at all. 

[BradM]

On 6/24/2021 at 5:34 PM, HoneyB said:

Doesn’t seem to matter as the OP had no responce. But since your asking the three blade ofx did not work on my boat at all. 

It matters. The idea that "what got you here, won't get you there" is evident. The old hulls were lighter and the old 2 strokes, too. Coupled with how the 2 stroke delivers power compared to a 4 stroke, plus the weight of the new hulls, old propeller designs are just that...There is a better mouse trap and people need to be made aware of that. Simply calling someone with an outdated spread sheet with outdated numbers isn't always the best answer. Not when a handful of people here (you, me and a many others) have spent thousands and thousands of dollars scratching out the BEST all around performance we can get. Not simply top speed, hole shot or "when light" performance numbers, but real load, overall ideal performance. 

We've eliminated steering issues, handling issues, speed issues, low speed handling issues, mid-range performance issues through what we KNOW first hand from spending hours at the ramp testing and swapping props. real world, right now, as it happened data. As if it wasn't enough with out of the box props, you and I have spent even more money sending props off to be blueprinted, tweaked, enhanced, etc. and sometimes only to get back a paper weight.....or a rocket ship. I'm glad neither of us settled for mediocrity on our upper tier bay boats. 

[Gwpbob]

I have a 2011 2200TE XL with a 250SHO I’m running a power tech 19 4blade prop and can’t get over 5300rpm at 50 mph boat has a 6” jack plate and a t-top any sugestions

[HoneyB]

On 8/19/2022 at 10:31 AM, Gwpbob said:

I have a 2011 2200TE XL with a 250SHO I’m running a power tech 19 4blade prop and can’t get over 5300rpm at 50 mph boat has a 6” jack plate and a t-top any sugestions

Find a tempest plus 19 pitch and give it a spin . 

[Gwpbob]

I purchased the boat with a salt water series 23 pitch then went to an power tech 21 pitch was better but still not good so I put the 4 blade power tech 19” boat runs real good with that prop. Recently the engine started to make oil dealer said it was because I didn’t run it hard enough. Eng has just under 700 hrs on it why would it just start to make oil?

[BradM]

On 8/20/2022 at 10:48 PM, Gwpbob said:

I purchased the boat with a salt water series 23 pitch then went to an power tech 21 pitch was better but still not good so I put the 4 blade power tech 19” boat runs real good with that prop. Recently the engine started to make oil dealer said it was because I didn’t run it hard enough. Eng has just under 700 hrs on it why would it just start to make oil?

You're running and "older" hull that the Power Tech's work well on due to the stern lift they tend to produce. The 23p Yamaha prop is too stiff for your rig, I bet a 21p would shine. Out of all of that, you've provided very little performance data outside of "better" and "real good". Speed; cruise, WOT,etc., RPM that each is achieved at, hole shot, overall handling, fuel burn, and so on. Not to pick, but there dozens and dozens of variables. 

In regards to the making oil statement, engines simply do not "make" oil, it's literally impossible. You have fuel leaking past the rings or valves into the crank case (I'm aware these engines have an oil tank/sump and not a wet crank case; semantics), which is diluting your oil with fuel and reducing the oils viscosity and lubricating ability. How often do you idle, what duration of time and what is the trim angle of your outboard while at idle? If positive (trim up) fuel will puddle in the cylinders and leak past the piston rings into the crank case. Try trolling or idling and negative trim or at least level, which will keep the fuel from puddling in the cylinders. If your oil looks like chocolate milk or coffee with cream in it, you have a whole lot worse problems. 

I store and/or dock my boat with the engine at negative trim to minimize or eliminate this issue, and recommend that anyone with a SHO do the same. The cylinders in these engines (the new 2021, and up I think, Yam. 300, too) are plasma infused aluminum, and the last thing they can tolerate is contaminated or compromised oil. Try it out and report back....Change your oil ASAP, too! 

[Gwpbob]

Ok I just picked up my boat at shop after them having it for 13 days and not getting to it. Changed oil and filter and both thermostats port side was stuck wide open, starboard side was leaking and very corroded leaking down onto oil filter. Cleaned up all corrosion put it all back together and took to the ramp. Was able to get 6100rpm at 5500mph trimmed up 6 bars jack plate set at 2 and 1/2” with full tank of fuel and two adults. Also boat has t-top. Seems like I’m propped  correctly. Thanks to everyone’s suggestions I’ll just have to keep an eye on oil level and run it harder when possible.

[Gwpbob]

Sorry 55mph