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Speaker install question


plainsman5

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First, measure three to four times before you cut. Tape over the entire area with blue painters tape to keep from chipping the gel coat and to not scratch the gel coat that the speaker will not cover. Trace the hole out on to the tape(I use a permanent marker). The deck will be about 1/2" thick in that area and there will probably be some spray foam behind it. I used a jig saw to cut the hole with a metal blade, cuts smoother. There are other tools for cutting. Just use the one you are more comfortable with.

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I can't say for sure on your boat, but on my 2013 23 HPS they fit no problem, on my 2016 23 HPS the compartments are shallower and I had to notch out the back of them to fit. Either way you can get rubber baskets to cover the back.

I would recommend this handy gadget. It's what I use and works well. Can get at Lowes or Home Depot for less than $10-12 I think.

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Accessory%20678-01%20(EN)%20r19894v15.jpg

Josh B.

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If running speaker wire, use good, appropriate wire. Make sure your connections to the speakers are solid and tight. Add some corrosion spray after connected like Boeshield.

After you put on the tape and outline with a marker, take the cover and put it over the mark so that you see what the final product looks like and also to see that it is positioned the way you want it - clearance from anything around, etc.

Use the gaskets provided or just a bit of silicone to keep out all water, add a dab on each screw as well.

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The holes are the easy part... use whatever tool you feel comfy with. I used a dremel with a roto cut bit. Running the wires is what can be difficult, it may be easier on your older hull but on mine there was no gap to get it thru on the stbd side so I had to route with port side and then around the inside of the compartments to stbd

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The holes are the easy part... use whatever tool you feel comfy with. I used a dremel with a roto cut bit. Running the wires is what can be difficult, it may be easier on your older hull but on mine there was no gap to get it thru on the stbd side so I had to route with port side and then around the inside of the compartments to stbd

Finchaser,,, do you have the 8'' JL's on your 20?

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The holes are the easy part... use whatever tool you feel comfy with. I used a dremel with a roto cut bit. Running the wires is what can be difficult, it may be easier on your older hull but on mine there was no gap to get it thru on the stbd side so I had to route with port side and then around the inside of the compartments to stbd

Finchaser,,, do you have the 8'' JL's on your 20?

I have the MX-650's

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Robert you must be more patient than me. I went through 12.00 worth of bits in 5 minutes and broke out my sawzall when I was cutting out my new splash well hatch.

Not sure your problem, maybe my boat is built cheaper?

I've cut speakers in my Mav, my bro's pontoon and now the L&B. No issues with the dremel. You have to let the bit do the cutting and not over power the little tool. I imagine with your brute force that's your problem! Haha. Bring it on down to FL I'll do it for u.

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Buttapollock,

How do you like the 8s. Can you compare to the 7.7s? I'm still on the fence with going with 7.7s in the rod lockers and 8s in the console. Was thinking of running a Fusion H/U and a JL amp.

My apologies if I've derailed.

Cliff

So far I'm happy with the new speakers, it's only been one boat trip so far. My wife noticed the b*** difference, I'm going to be bridging my amp JL m400/4 amp for the 8's and then I'll be able to answer your question better. JL 7.7's are still very good. If you have room do the 8.8's bigger is usually better! If your going from not having speakers or money is a concern the 7.7's are very good. Best of luck.

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