EarlyTimes Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 After looking for a while, I picked up a 1998 17T side console with a 2001 50 hp 2 stroke last week. Took it out over the weekend just to see what it would do and had a ton of fun. Now, I'm embarking on a re-work similar to WanaFlatsFish but not as extensive, and I've got lots of questions. Many either have already been answered or will be in that thread, but I don't want to completely highjack it. So please excuse any repetition. So, here goes: 1. The guy I bought the boat from had bought it at an auction. The item description from the auction house says "1998 Pathfinder, refit in 2001 by Maverick Boat Company." I'm wondering if that means the stringers might have been re-worked at that time? Did the factory do any stringer rebuilds? Any idea if they might have records of jobs like that? The deck feels very sound. There is a bit of flex in the bow running into a light chop, but I don't know how much is normal. I'm coming from a much heavier skiff. 2. The boat came with a transom-mount troller clamped to a bracket that's screwed down to the bow. One of the first things I'll be doing is removing that and mounting a real bow-mount motor. But I can't see any way to access the underside of the deck up there. I noticed in WanaFlatsFish's thread that he mentioned "tapping" the holes for the troller. Is there a metal plate built in up there or something? Can anybody provide more detail on mounting. I'll only be going with a 12V 55 lb. troller, if that makes a difference. 3. This one doesn't have a built-in fuel tank -- just a 6-gallon portable in the bow compartment. I'd like to add a permanent one in the 12- to 18-gallon range. Can anyone offer details or photos on the dimensions of the original built-in tanks and/or who they're attached to the bottom of the compartment? 4. I'd love to see some vertical rod storage options. This boat is largely unaltered and has nothing but the under-gunwale racks. I'd like to have room to keep at least three vertically but I'm not sure where. This whole side-console thing is new to me. 5. I'm taking more water than I should be. I notice WanaFlatsFish just posted that he'd figured some water intrusion spots, so I'll be interested to hear what those are. I plan to re-seal under the rub rail and remove, reseal and replace the main drains. This one has the screwed-on black keel guard. I wonder if that's leaking? Thanks very much for any advice and ***istance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 After looking for a while, I picked up a 1998 17T side console with a 2001 50 hp 2 stroke last week. Took it out over the weekend just to see what it would do and had a ton of fun.Now, I'm embarking on a re-work similar to WanaFlatsFish but not as extensive, and I've got lots of questions. Many either have already been answered or will be in that thread, but I don't want to completely highjack it. So please excuse any repetition. So, here goes: 1. The guy I bought the boat from had bought it at an auction. The item description from the auction house says "1998 Pathfinder, refit in 2001 by Maverick Boat Company." I'm wondering if that means the stringers might have been re-worked at that time? Did the factory do any stringer rebuilds? Any idea if they might have records of jobs like that? The deck feels very sound. There is a bit of flex in the bow running into a light chop, but I don't know how much is normal. I'm coming from a much heavier skiff. [color:red] check the floor around the corners and you should be able to tell if it's been cut out and rebuilt. normally the non skid will be different from the deck. mho might have the records...send the HIN on the stern to Skip Lyshon and he can look it up. Flex is a relative term...hard to comment[/color] 2. The boat came with a transom-mount troller clamped to a bracket that's screwed down to the bow. One of the first things I'll be doing is removing that and mounting a real bow-mount motor. But I can't see any way to access the underside of the deck up there. I noticed in WanaFlatsFish's thread that he mentioned "tapping" the holes for the troller. Is there a metal plate built in up there or something? Can anybody provide more detail on mounting. I'll only be going with a 12V 55 lb. troller, if that makes a difference. [color:red] Yes, there is a large plate up on the bow...you can tap into it.... BTW, I suggest going with a larger TM - 24v - you can go with the smaller batteries - optimal or group 24's and place them in the bow like i did with some plastic board - not starboard - secured by epoxy...the 24 V 80 will really help when moving in a current..[/color] 3. This one doesn't have a built-in fuel tank -- just a 6-gallon portable in the bow compartment. I'd like to add a permanent one in the 12- to 18-gallon range. Can anyone offer details or photos on the dimensions of the original built-in tanks and/or who they're attached to the bottom of the compartment? [color:red] I would definitely go with at least 12, more like 18 gallons...depending on your fishing style..I'm getting about 4.5 mpg so my range is about 60 miles safely - e.g. 5x12 =60 with some gallons to spare...[/color] 4. I'd love to see some vertical rod storage options. This boat is largely unaltered and has nothing but the under-gunwale racks. I'd like to have room to keep at least three vertically but I'm not sure where. This whole side-console thing is new to me. [color:red] I have some ideas and options[/color] 5. I'm taking more water than I should be. I notice WanaFlatsFish just posted that he'd figured some water intrusion spots, so I'll be interested to hear what those are. I plan to re-seal under the rub rail and remove, reseal and replace the main drains. This one has the screwed-on black keel guard. I wonder if that's leaking? [color:red] Yes, there are a lot of areas..i just found it leaking in the trim tabs, i took off the keel, and under the rub rails is a source of leaking...i took out all the drains for live well etc as I don't use it[/color] Thanks very much for any advice and ***istance! If you like, send me a text to my cell and i'll be happy to help you out with what i'm learning... I've completely rewired the entire boat and bilges...be sure to change out the bilge pumps..never know their condition. I will send you a PM with my data. all the best please post pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Thanks very much. I'll be in touch soon. With two young kids and a 40+ hour job, I work slowly. I have made a little progress though. The hardest (and least rewarding) part was adjusting the trailer setup. The hull was extending farther past the bunk ends than I liked, so I moved it forward about 10 inches. That involved resetting the winch stand and then extending the tongue to get the tongue weight right. Also added a hinge so it fits in the garage. Tell you what, that stuff is no fun. Also pulled off a bunch of old stickers and did a quick compounding. Didn't do a whole lot on the finish because I think I'll end up painting fairly soon anyway. Filled the bilge up with water and looked for leaks. The screwed-on keel doesn't seem to be leaking, nor the tabs, but the thru-hull drains in the sponsons were both leaking at a fast drip. Pulled those off and found a mess of old sealant, a couple of extra holes, one screw with the head broken off, etc. Left them out to allow the area to dry before repairing. Because the area will be covered by the flanges on the fittings, I'm thinking I'll just fill all the extraneous holes and the area where I dug out the broken screw with Marine Tex, then re-bed and re-seal with 4200. My bilge pumps are mounted, for some reason, forward of the access plates. You can feel them but can't see them. Taking a cue from Wanaflatsfish, I took out the old 4" pie plates and ordered 6" plates to replace them for at least slightly better access. Maybe when I cut the bigger holes I'll be able to see the pumps. For now, at least, both pumps are pushing plenty of water. With a good bit of stretching and cussing to reach the lower motor mount bolts behind the baitwell, I managed to loosen the bolts and raise the motor two holes. When I ran the boat with the 3-blade, 14p prop it came with, I had zero ventilation issues. So I'm hopeful that with the new 4-blade Powertech that's on its way I can bring it up a bit. Motor is now in the second-to-highest position. Aside from taking off some random old parts and fittings, that's it so far. In the coming weeks, the plan includes: --Fine tune motor elevation if necessary --Install new no-feedback tilt helm, which I bought more because it puts the wheel about three inches higher than because I care about the tilting --Add main battery switch and new switch and fuse panel --Add permanent fuel tank to replace portables --Install the GPS/sounder that's on it's way (just a cheap-o little Lowrance) --Pull all the old silicone out from under the rub rail and re-do it At that point, I think I'll take it to a gl*** shop for some work. Somewhere along the way, the overboard deck drains got removed and somebody cut a poker chip-sized hole in the floor that drains to the bilge. I don't care for that, and I want to get the hole sealed and the drains put back in. And, if budget allows, I may get it painted. Here's a few pics: First morning on the water [image]http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k527/zmthomas/IMG_7986f_zpsdxyvlc8t.jpg[/image] My two year old in hog heaven [image]http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k527/zmthomas/IMG_7987f_zpsncyagjfv.jpg[/image] My seven year old earning his keep by getting the old 4" access plates out [image]http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k527/zmthomas/IMG_8086_zpsnhdncyq1.jpg[/image] And the boat as she sits now, snug in the garage [image]http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k527/zmthomas/IMG_8095_zpsppo7uys1.jpg[/image] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Nice looking skiff. I'm going to be looking to buy one of these in the near future so I can fish the creeks in the winter time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localangler Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I love it when my daughter wants to help fix stuff. Letting then help builds memories that will last a lifetime, I still remember helping my dad as a child. You've got a nice boat but a better looking family, enjoy both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtaco Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Pics 2 & 3 says it all…love seeing the kids having a great time!! I don't recall the bow flexing on my 17T. Yes, 18 gallons would be just right but you will notice a difference in weight. I would go with a 24v troller for longer run time. Sounds like you are on the right path to getting her just how you want. Keep us updated on the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Pull all the old silicone out from under the rub rail and re-do itAt that point, I think I'll take it to a gl*** shop for some work. Somewhere along the way, the overboard deck drains got removed and somebody cut a poker chip-sized hole in the floor that drains to the bilge. I don't care for that, and I want to get the hole sealed and the drains put back in. My comments: 1.) You need to remove the entire rub-rail. I just finished doing this today and re-sealing with 5200 When I pulled the rub-rail I found gaps of about 1/2" in some cases where the silicone had separated....I tried the pull and re-seal; however, I was still having water intrusion. It took me about 1 hr to remove it...I then found many of the screws had come loose...I used 2 full tubes of 5200....I used a Fein Master tool to clean under the rail and cut the old silicone flush in spot where I could not get it all out... Afterwards, I unscrewed all the tap screws along the cap and then filled them with 5200 and screwed them tight...after, I filled the gaps with 5200....I used a putty knife as a trowel to clean make the filling even....it was a 'f'n'n mess...but, I know now, there will be no more water intrusion from under the gunnels spray. I will be replacing them rub rail today and will install one bead of 4200 along the underside of black as another....BUT, AFTER I GOT INTO THE RUB RAIL...I FOUND ALOT OF WATER INTRUSION..AND THIS WAS AFTER I PUT TWO TUBES OF BLACK 4200 ($40..UGGH). PULL IT OFF, CLEAN IT, AND SEAL.... 2.) Mine has the same thing...becareful of re-opening the holes....what you might find is it sits very low in the water and your decks might be full of water or you'll have to keep the plugs in...nothing wrong with the set up...i never plan on keeping the boat in the water overnight...so, the need for self bailing is a non-issue for me....I have two new bilge pumps and carry a spare for on the water repair. I have them wired separately so I can check them....they work fine. 3.) One big a-ha for me, I found a major leak in the engine mounting bolt - a large gap where the bottom bolt was placed...I never noticed till Capt DonH saw it...I ran a hose on it and found a large amount of water entering...4200 on it and set a bead along the entire engine mounting...hopefully this will help. 4.) Lastly, be sure to remove the keel. I found a large amount of water draining from the bottom of the black keel. There was NO 5200 or sealant under the screws. It's a real mess to do it up-side down, but, I filled the old holes with Marine Tech to fill the holes, waited to it to dry, then set a long bead of 5200 on the starboard....more for screws and sealing as I know it does not stick to the starboard....laid it all out and replaced....what a mess ! upside down, I became sick with Vertigo that I suffer from...no fun...but, it's there... Good luck...will post pics later... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thanks, all. Dino, that's not what I wanted to hear, but I appreciate it nonetheless. It'll be a few weekends before I can set aside enough time to tackle that. On the keel, I filled the bilge up over the weekend, lowered the bow, and let it sit for 45 minutes and saw no sign of moisture under there. I suppose I should remove and check anyway. I can't help but thinking, though, that if it went back to the factory in 2001 some of this stuff must have been addressed. I also noticed when I raised my motor of the weekend that the bottom holes seemed to have big gaps around the bolts. I'm just filling it with silicon for now, until I test the engine height with the new prop. Once I get that finalized, I'll seal it all back up as you suggest. On the cockpit drains, I'm going to go ahead and put them in. I do occasionally leave my boat in the water for a night or more. Plus, as a former offshore guy, I just really don't care for being entirely dependent on the function of the electrical system, pumps, and plumbing to keep the boat floating. I'm aware they're a little bit too low, but I don't mind plugging them and then pulling the plugs to dry the deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I did not notice any water coming from the keel, until I pull the screws.... But, it was completely soaked under the keep and the water dripped out, indicating some intrusion... I'd leave that one for last... On the bolts, yes, for sure..try silicone or 4200 and run a bead along the engine plate as well. have fun.... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Well, I've been doing more playing than working on the boat the last couple weeks but have a few observations. First and foremost, I've been working on finding the right prop. It came with a Yamaha "black stainless" 14p 3-blade. With the engine hung at the lowest setting, the boat topped out around 32 or 33 at about 5200 rpm. I raised the engine two holes to the second-from-highest position and tried a PowerTech SCB 4 blade in 12p. Prop ran great in the higher position (about 1-1/2" up) but top speed and RPM were nearly identical. Because fast, shallow holeshot is very important for me, I want to get all the torque I can down low, so I'm switching down to an 11p. I'll update once I run it this coming weekend. It's worth noting that even with the 3-blade Yamaha, it runs fine at the second-from-highest position. The 3-blade does break loose more abruptly in turns than the SCB4, and the SCB just feels more "settled" at high speed. It also planes faster and stays on plane at noticeably lower speeds. Next up: Adding larger access plates to reach the bilge pumps Adding an additional access plate in front of the starboard bilge pump to epoxy in a transducer Adding an access plate in the aft starboard corner of the deck so I can check for leaks around the baitwell drain (still lots of water intrusion) and bolt on a Power-Pole somewhere down the road. Then it's off to the gl*** and paint guy for some stuff that's over my head. In the meantime, here are a couple pics from a recent family trip from Orlando up to Panacea, Florida. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtaco Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Panacea??? You're up in my neck of the woods. Y'all catch any fish? You'r 17 looks just like my old one but I had a 60hp Yammie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Well, I've been doing more playing than working on the boat the last couple weeks but have a few observations.First and foremost, I've been working on finding the right prop. It came with a Yamaha "black stainless" 14p 3-blade. With the engine hung at the lowest setting, the boat topped out around 32 or 33 at about 5200 rpm. I raised the engine two holes to the second-from-highest position and tried a PowerTech SCB 4 blade in 12p. Prop ran great in the higher position (about 1-1/2" up) but top speed and RPM were nearly identical. Because fast, shallow holeshot is very important for me, I want to get all the torque I can down low, so I'm switching down to an 11p. I'll update once I run it this coming weekend. It's worth noting that even with the 3-blade Yamaha, it runs fine at the second-from-highest position. The 3-blade does break loose more abruptly in turns than the SCB4, and the SCB just feels more "settled" at high speed. It also planes faster and stays on plane at noticeably lower speeds. Next up: Adding larger access plates to reach the bilge pumps Adding an additional access plate in front of the starboard bilge pump to epoxy in a transducer Adding an access plate in the aft starboard corner of the deck so I can check for leaks around the baitwell drain (still lots of water intrusion) and bolt on a Power-Pole somewhere down the road. Then it's off to the gl*** and paint guy for some stuff that's over my head. In the meantime, here are a couple pics from a recent family trip from Orlando up to Panacea, Florida. Good Info....I just had a complete carb rebuild as it was bogging down at high speeds....took it out yesterday and ran it...she ran well, but, I'm sure, now that you are posting, I'm over prop'd... I'm running a 13 P 4 blade and only getting 28 mph top speed light...and my hole shot is dragging..i thought it was the carbs...@ 4500 rpms...so now I know it's the prop...uggggh. I am going to look into a smaller 4 blade to spin it up better.... DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Didn't have a whole lot of time for fishing but it was all the slot size trout you wanted. Truly beautiful area and a neat little town. Great antidote to Orlando for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Got some more fairly minor work done over the weekend. Biggest victory was confirming the right prop -- PowerTech SCB4 in 11 pitch is ideal. Also did some access plates and electrical stuff. Only thing of any real interest is that in my ongoing search for water intrusion culprits, I decided to put a 6" pie plate in the starboard aft corner so I could check the baitwell drain for leaks. When I got the hole cut, though, I discovered that the entire sponson area was filled with foam. The drain hose from the well and the thru-hull where it exits were completely foamed in. It took me at least an hour with a fillet knife and fingers to excavate my way down to the fitting. Sure enough, when I got there, the hose clamp was hanging loose around the thru-hull, and the foam at the bottom was soaked. It's clear, unfortunately, that this isn't the main leak, but it was certainly the source of some water. I know I have to pull the rub rail, but man I don't look forward to it. Plus it's tough to find the time and the help to do it. Pics below show sponson after foam removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 I feel your pain I think I've solved my leak...it was in the rubrail and the engine bolt... You need to remove the entire rubrail and re-4200 the entire undersides...looking at 1/2 day with two guyz... Also, don't forget to check your trim tabs, etc. DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Right, pulling and re-sealing trim tabs and keel piece during the evenings this week. So is your bilge reasonably dry at this point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Right, pulling and re-sealing trim tabs and keel piece during the evenings this week.So is your bilge reasonably dry at this point? yes, I think we got it.....There is a little bit coming in from somewhere, but, I can't find it yet...but, nothing like before... DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Will take photos of the fuel tank later today for you. dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Long time, no post. I've done a lot, but not much has been very photogenic -- more utilitarian than sexy. A few things accomplished since the last post: --Removed the black screw-on keel piece. When I did, the aft few screw holes poured oily, gassy water out. They go all the way through into the bilge. Scraped off all old sealant, re-sealed very thoroughly with black 4200, and replaced with all new fasteners. Messy job. --Installed trolling motor on quick-release plate --Plastic tub lining front hatch was cracking along several of the floor-to-wall joints. Repaired and reinforced with G/flex and cloth. Also cleaned and de-greased interior of tub, scuffed with 150-grit paper, and sprayed with white Krylon Fusion plastic paint in a rattle can. Looks much better than the old yellowed plastic, and the paint is holding up well. --Did the same thing in the aft box. Washed, degreased, scuffed, painted. --Did a minor rewire. Didn't replace wires to every accessory, but re-did all the "central" stuff, adding a master switch (didn't have one before), Blue Sea fuse panel, and Blue Sea weather deck switch panel. --Installed permanent fuel tank (details and pics on that later)\ --Pulled trim tabs and discovered a mess behind them, including several unused holes, apparently from a previous set of tabs, that hadn't been sealed well. Ground everything out, let it dry completely, then filled old holes and reinforced existing holes with Marine Tex. Basically you drill out the old hole, pack it with Marine Tex, spray your fastener with silicon, thread it in, and then let the Marine Tex dry around it. --Installed no-feedback tilt helm. My basic rotary helm was pulling hard enough to be annoying and certain speeds and trim angles, so I wanted to go to NFB. Also wanted to get the wheel a little higher. With the new helm, I can tilt the wheel up so it's horizontal, and I barely have to stoop to reach it standing. That means for idling around super shallow, I can stand in the middle of the cockpit and steer fairly easily with my right hand. Topped it off with a new Gemlux wheel. --The only issue with the new helm was that it's quite a bit heavier than the old one. The console was already a bit floppy, and the added weight of the new helm made it bounce to the point I was worried it would crack. So I had a little aluminum support leg fabricated for it. --Also pulled off and sold the old platform and just got the boat back with the new one. Because I weigh a good bit more than anybody I fish with, I wanted to be as far forward on the platform as reasonably possible. And because I'm usually fishing with people who frequently need help (kids, wife, etc), I wanted to be low enough that getting off the platform to unhook a catfish or re-rig something wouldn't be a major production. I used the low HPX-T platforms as a model. Haven't used it yet, but going this weekend. Next steps are glass stuff -- both structural and cosmetic. I still haven't pulled my rub rail, but I need to. I noticed the other day when rolling the boat by hand across some pavers that near the bow, the cap and hull move independently. I had my fingertips up under the rub rail while pushing and every time the bow wheel hit a joint in the pavers, I could feel movement. The stringers are solid; it's just the hull-deck joint that needs to be reinforced. Not sure whether that will be with 5200, a bonding agent like Plexus, or just new fasteners and new holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 great work...keep it coming...the tilt steering is a very nice upgrade. How much RUB RAIL: this is a MUST - WE STOPPED ALL OUR WATER INTRUSION....but it will require at least 2-3 large 5200/4200 tubes (like pain caulk tubes). it will take two days...do it now in the summer.... day one...remove all rub rail and put in 5200 under the entire cap. day two, replace rub rail and re-seal gaps.... it's a two person job for the replacement (not 100% necessary - but will go faster) dc dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Yep, I know it about the rub rail. That's the next big hurdle. Helm was about $250. This is what I used: http://www.starmarinedepot.com/seastar-nfb-safe-t-ii-dash-tilt-module-kit-sht91190/pzz11862.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwoPG8BRCSi5uu6d6N5WcSJABHzD8FsUpYl10HFStcrwnHAwbHU8aqfwsLAh1DT46NvFkm_BoCIVnw_wcB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Got her on the water yesterday for the first time in over a month. Had my doubts about whether the new fuel system (installed new permanent tank, vent line, filler cap and hose, pickup, and added water separator) would work, but it fired right up and ran great. Cooler on the bow helps with balance, and it actually poles okay from the bow with just me on board. Very happy with trolling motor location too. This was my first time out since installing. With the handle extended, I can run it fairly easily while standing on the cooler, and there's also plenty of room to stand forward of the cooler and run it. Plus the bow is still open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Looking good dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Sweeeeeeeeet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyTimes Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Thanks! This is my favorite thing about it -- amazingly shallow takeoffs with near zero bow-rise. This clip is from idle to a a 20 mph plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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