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'03 2400 V Project


PGolz

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I've been planning on starting this thread for awhile but a kitchen renovation (still unfinished) has kept me, and my wallet, from being able to work on the boat. Some of this may be pointless info and posted here more to hold myself accountable but would appreciate any and all feedback from the members here along the way.  

Back in March, I purchased a 2003 2400V out of a barn in middle Georgia. I had been looking for a 2200, but my buddy found this listing and sent it my way, one thing lead to another and I was driving home with the boat.. The first few months of ownership were spent troubleshooting the original Yamaha OX66 225 engine (with only 460ish hrs on it) that did run, but with issues. It seems 18 years of ignored preventative maintenance was all being dumped on me and as soon as I fixed one thing, another popped up. Somewhat in this order, I replaced the following parts chasing various issues that would pop up.

-Low pressure fuel pumps

-Fuel filters, VST filter & screen

-Oxygen sensor (why are these so pricey??)

-Main relay 

-water pump, impeller, etc.

-thermostats

-poppet valve

-tilt/trim motor

I could be forgetting some, I tried to  "accidentally" throw away receipts so I'd forget how much I was spending on this 18 year old two stroke, but I digress. I now have some peace of mind and feel I know the engine pretty well. There are still some small things that I need to get to, but I trust her.

I've got a number of questions to ask you guys about how to fix some things and upgrades or ways to modernize the boat as I go through this process. Hoping to get new upholstery done this winter as well as try to rewire the boat myself and do one of the acrylic dash panels. I've upgraded to a Simrad GO9 and Fusion head unit but everything else is pretty much 10+ years old and need replacing. 

So I guess that's it to get started. Any things I need to be weary of or check on with these hulls? I know the potential for a leaking gas tank is there, scares me but I try to keep it dry in there best I can;. Wil follow up with a few pics of specific items I'm looking for some advice on. 

 

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Here are some pictures of the starboard aft compartment that houses the battery, oil tank and what I believe to be an old Power Pole pump. As you can see the battery tray has cracked. I notice that there is always water pooled under here when I look through the crack. Does anyone else experience this or know why? Can't imagine it's good but haven't really gotten in there to see how it's built. It seems like the best option is the move the battery up to the console and clean up this hatch. Anyone have pictures of what their hatches look like? Or have advice on a good way to approach this? It's a mess currently, I know.

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I have the 2001 version. That pump is probably the hydraulic pump for steering. Mine seems to leak fluid some as the yellow cap cant be snugged up. As for the motor mine was not burning all the fuel mixture so, had a little black oil on foot after use and sitting for day or so. I recommend running Yamaha Ring free as this help with many possible issues. As you said regular maintenance is a must as these motors get older but I will say they are some of the best Yamaha has made. In my opinion they stopped making them as sales dropped back then. 

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15 minutes ago, Fishin' Mission said:

I have the 2001 version. That pump is probably the hydraulic pump for steering. Mine seems to leak fluid some as the yellow cap cant be snugged up. As for the motor mine was not burning all the fuel mixture so, had a little black oil on foot after use and sitting for day or so. I recommend running Yamaha Ring free as this help with many possible issues. As you said regular maintenance is a must as these motors get older but I will say they are some of the best Yamaha has made. In my opinion they stopped making them as sales dropped back then. 

Dang, shows how much I know, or thought I knew! Didn't realize I had a pump for steering. So if my battery is out will I have problems steering? Clearly I need to go look better at what everything is hooked up to.

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Are you sure the pump with the yellow cap isnt for the jack plate?   Those are mercury hydraulic pumps that other companies use for trim tabs/jack plate/power pole.

If the yellow cap leaks, they introduced a new cap that helps (its a mercury part).  Another trick is to take one side of zip lock bag (a thin piece of plastic) and place that over the opening and then screw the yellow cap back on.

 

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4 hours ago, gtrfred said:

Are you sure the pump with the yellow cap isnt for the jack plate?   Those are mercury hydraulic pumps that other companies use for trim tabs/jack plate/power pole.

If the yellow cap leaks, they introduced a new cap that helps (its a mercury part).  Another trick is to take one side of zip lock bag (a thin piece of plastic) and place that over the opening and then screw the yellow cap back on.

 

Just sitting at work and realized it was likely the jack plate pump, looks like you beat me to it. Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Bamaskeet said:

As part of your rewire, I would suggest moving all the batteries to the console.  You might have to stiffen the floor, but that’s a easy job.

That is a great hull, you will enjoy it.  Let me add, if you move the batteries, which I recommend, you MUST reenforce the floor.  It was not designed to handle the weight of 3 - 4 batteries.  You simply add an angle under the floor that runs completely across the floor.

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On 12/19/2021 at 9:28 AM, Chief5130 said:

That is a great hull, you will enjoy it.  Let me add, if you move the batteries, which I recommend, you MUST reenforce the floor.  It was not designed to handle the weight of 3 - 4 batteries.  You simply add an angle under the floor that runs completely across the floor.

Thanks this is good info. Can you elaborate at all on adding the angle? Install it through the fuel tank access hatch I assume? Pictures would be awesome if anyone has them.

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2 hours ago, PGolz said:

Thanks this is good info. Can you elaborate at all on adding the angle? Install it through the fuel tank access hatch I assume? Pictures would be awesome if anyone has them.

his is not the best photo, but I think you can get the idea.  You can just see the aluminum angle under the deck.  Have 3 group 31 batteries that are supported this way.

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3 hours ago, Chief5130 said:

his is not the best photo, but I think you can get the idea.  You can just see the aluminum angle under the deck.  Have 3 group 31 batteries that are supported this way.

 

Is the angle resting on top of something on either side to bear weight? Or just provides rigidity to the surface?

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On 12/8/2021 at 1:30 PM, PGolz said:

Low pressure fuel pumps

-Fuel filters, VST filter & screen

-Oxygen sensor (why are these so pricey??)

-Main relay 

-water pump, impeller, etc.

-thermostats

-poppet valve

-tilt/trim motor

 

Don't forget to change the filter on the oil reserve tank - if you haven't do so...they clog...it's about a $20 part...blow out the line as well....check my post on the Holy Ghost and I took pictures of everything and how it connects...y skiff is a 1995 so I just changed out the motor not he oil tank as well...probably don't need to do so on yours...but, I had mine out and just paid the extra $100 or so.

Lower unit oil ?  didn't see this one.

I would also drain all the hyrdraulic fluid in the jack plate motor and clean it all out....unscrew it from the bulkhead and check all the connections and remove any corrosion...

I would also trace all your bilge wire connections and re-wire anything that does not have a double heat shrink connection....you'd be surprised how much corrosion will have built up over time.

I would also change out the bilge pump - keep the old one as a spare....but, they can go anytime....in a 2003 you don't know how old it is....

Check all your connections to your batteries on the trolling motor and all your connections that go from the battery to the engine connections...get new connectors if you see any corrosion.

Regarding the changing of the batteries to the console - YES - you can lay some under iron, or, get 1 inch thick starboard or pvc board, and overlay it, this will also stiffen the floor....I did this on my Pathfinder 2003 years ago....22 foot.

sounds like you are having fun with the new boat.....enjoy the work...this way you know how everything works and you can repair on the water if necessary.

dc

 

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On 12/22/2021 at 2:23 PM, Wanaflatsfish said:

Don't forget to change the filter on the oil reserve tank - if you haven't do so...they clog...it's about a $20 part...blow out the line as well....check my post on the Holy Ghost and I took pictures of everything and how it connects...y skiff is a 1995 so I just changed out the motor not he oil tank as well...probably don't need to do so on yours...but, I had mine out and just paid the extra $100 or so.

Lower unit oil ?  didn't see this one.

I would also drain all the hyrdraulic fluid in the jack plate motor and clean it all out....unscrew it from the bulkhead and check all the connections and remove any corrosion...

I would also trace all your bilge wire connections and re-wire anything that does not have a double heat shrink connection....you'd be surprised how much corrosion will have built up over time.

I would also change out the bilge pump - keep the old one as a spare....but, they can go anytime....in a 2003 you don't know how old it is....

Check all your connections to your batteries on the trolling motor and all your connections that go from the battery to the engine connections...get new connectors if you see any corrosion.

Regarding the changing of the batteries to the console - YES - you can lay some under iron, or, get 1 inch thick starboard or pvc board, and overlay it, this will also stiffen the floor....I did this on my Pathfinder 2003 years ago....22 foot.

sounds like you are having fun with the new boat.....enjoy the work...this way you know how everything works and you can repair on the water if necessary.

dc

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll be checking out your post and servicing these items shortly.

Hoping to do a full rewire with new switches, acrylic dash, new audio etc. at some point, so will address all of the wiring issues as I go trough that process.

The bilge pump is already out and I can't get to the dang thing through the pie-hole transom-well hatch the factory provided. Looked into adding a bigger hatch but the way the current hatch is shaped makes this difficult. Any advice?

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  • 1 month later...

Well, finally did something for the boat again. New upholstery for the leaning post and console seat.

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Had these done by a guy named Brian out in Brooklet, GA who has recently started doing upholstery and has a great attention to detail, not too costly either. If anyone needs upholstery in the area send me a message because Brian can do anything you can think of and won't give it back til it looks right.

We went back and forth for awhile about how we wanted to design these things and came up with a pretty cool solution for the front backrest using magnets. This cushion had to be removeable in order to access the hatch I installed in the front of the console, or, had to have a cutout in the cushion to reach the latch. I didn't want a cutout and opted for the cleaner look with the magnets..

Brian sewed (5) 1"x1/8" sew-in magnets into the back of the cushion and I put (5) 1"x1/4" magnets into the back of my starboard access hatch door. The magnets were dropped into 3/8" deep holes routed into the starboard and then filled with epoxy resin to keep them in place. Drilled multiple smaller holes sideways out of the main hole to give the epoxy somewhere to fill in and grab onto. I'm pretty happy to say it came out exactly as planned and the magnets are more than strong enough to hold the cushion in place. Magnets were bought from Apex Magnets; they've got any and everything you could think of when it comes to magnets and are more than happy to help you over the phone to decide what product is best for your application.

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So much better than the raggity old cushions I had, now I just need to catch the rest of the boat up to the cushions..

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New T-Top canvas coming next, anyone ever used G2 Outfitters for theirs?

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Life’s been busy but figured I’d update on the project..

Took the boat to Boattronics in Jacksonville last spring for a full rewire, sound system install, acrylic dash panel, etc. The guys down there did great work and she really felt like a brand new boat after getting it back.

Ordered new t-top canvas from G2 Outfitters and added a zippered hatch to stand through on the console.

Got a few pieces of SeaDek for the helm pad, console top, and top of the new Yeti 75 under the leaning post..

Facebook marketplace find 10’ Power Pole blade for $800 works like a charm.

Had entire console redone, filled all holes, new gel coat.

New Yamaha 704 binnacle.

Added blinker style switches for the jackplate and tilt/trim.

Raw water wash down in the splash well.

Lot’s of dollars and time spent since the last post but this things almost getting there.

 

Now to address the 20 year old eye sore on the back. I love a two stroke and especially an OX66 but I believe it’s time to upgrade to something newer. What’s the best approach for a repower right now? Buy new? Find something slightly used?

Pretty hard set on Yamaha, leaning towards a 250 SHO or maybe a 300 because I’ve seen a few good deals on used ones. 

What’s everyone’s thoughts? All advice welcome.

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9 hours ago, Fish5 said:

Auto correct 🤦

SUB 

Went with a JL 10" M6. It sounds great, but almost anything would have been a huge improvement over the 4 cheaper speakers I had before.

The sounds system as I have it is really all I'd ever need but I do have an urge to replace the (2) 6.5s in the front with 7.7s or even 8.8s, maybe one day..

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Also ordered a new windshield from UPS plastics. I must have ordered wrong because it came in about 5” shorter than the original but I have grown to favor the sleeker look of the shorter one, not to mention the price and strict no return policy, not much I could do..

Added the black strip around the bottom on the inside with rustoleum matte spray paint. Hides the gap between the windshield and console that always ends up full of crud.

I’d like to eventually get eisenglas for the t-top for the nasty days, any good threads on that?

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3 hours ago, Wanaflatsfish said:

Wow....great upgrades !!!

Great detail for others who may have new projects as well...

 

dc

 

Thank you!
Nothin has been more helpful than the information I find on here so figured it was time to give back.

Everyone feel free to ask questions, I left a lot of details out..

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