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Prop Question '90 MA


bennetmp

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Hey everyone, 

I completely redid my '90 18.5 Master Angler. I took a 03' 140 Evinrude 2 stroke off the back and put a new Suzuki 150. I used to get upper 40s with the 140, sometimes low 50s with absolutely no porpoising. Since changing motors and having the boat redone it porpoises like crazy. Changed to a 4 blade prop which seemed to help some. The trolling motor batteries were moved from up front to under the seat. I have put 2 50 pound sand bags at the front to try to help with weight distribution, which it did some. However above about 33, I still porpoise unless the bow trim tabs are buried. Any suggestions, prop or otherwise. Here is a pic. 

Mav3.jpg

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I don't have an answer, but wanted to compliment the work.  What a beautiful boat.   

Two things to consider:

1) Funky Monkey on here is likely to give you a good prop recommendation to lift the stern.   You may want to check w/ him.

2)  You switched outboard brands - is it possible that the angle of the motor vs. the transom is different?   I'm probably speaking out of the wrong orifice, but may be a factor.

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I love my Suzuki 90, but gotta say, Suzuki outboards like the 115 and 150 are heavier compared to other brands in their horsepower class.  Just estimating, but it looks like you've added roughly 160 pounds to the transom.  That's a major shift in the COG and balance.  Funky Monkey is good, but this will be a challenge for him.  An inexpensive item to try, in addition to a stern lifting prop, would be one of these: T-H Marine Hydro-Tail  It's mounted on top of the cavitation plate so there's no additional drag when on plane, if your motor is mounted at the correct height.  I have installed one before and it worked well to lift the stern and stabilize the ride.  Hole-shot was quicker as well.

Hope this helps

P.S. Your boat is beautiful!  Love the color.

 

hydro-tail-hydrofoil.jpg

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I do, I have a lot! I can put them together for everyone if you would like to see. I have a whale tail on it already. Looked yesterday and (I don't know props to save my life) but it is a Power Tech LMav2.thumb.jpg.a42c9ae71f44af845463634ff528f50d.jpgNR4R20PSF115. To me that means LNR prop with a 20 pitch, but is it for a 115 motor? Could that be the issue? 

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20 hours ago, bennetmp said:

I took a 03' 140 Evinrude 2 stroke off the back and put a new Suzuki 150

Great looking skiff!  Your pictures show a Suzuki 140.  The weight difference I mentioned is based on the Suzuki 150.  IMO the Suzuki 140 is the best power-to-weight motor you could have on your Master Angler - great choice!  As far as the porpoising issue - one important thing is to make sure your motor height is set so that the cavitation plate (and whale-tail) is right at, or on top of, the surface of the water stream when running on plane, and not submerged.

My 2 cents on a prop for your motor... Get a high-rake Powertech PRO3 (or comparable model) with less pitch than you need, and then send it off to a prop specialist and have aggressive cup added to the trailing edge and blade tips, for extra grip and bow lift.  If the whale-tail is not helping, you need a prop with strong bow lift that can carry the bow and not allow it to fall into a porpoising rhythm.  There are other Powertech props with high-rake and extra cup added that may work too.  If Powertech offers custom work to add more cup at the factory, I would order it that way from them.

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10 hours ago, geeviam said:

Great looking skiff!  Your pictures show a Suzuki 140.  The weight difference I mentioned is based on the Suzuki 150.  IMO the Suzuki 140 is the best power-to-weight motor you could have on your Master Angler - great choice!  As far as the porpoising issue - one important thing is to make sure your motor height is set so that the cavitation plate (and whale-tail) is right at, or on top of, the surface of the water stream when running on plane, and not submerged.

My 2 cents on a prop for your motor... Get a high-rake Powertech PRO3 (or comparable model) with less pitch than you need, and then send it off to a prop specialist and have aggressive cup added to the trailing edge and blade tips, for extra grip and bow lift.  If the whale-tail is not helping, you need a prop with strong bow lift that can carry the bow and not allow it to fall into a porpoising rhythm.  There are other Powertech props with high-rake and extra cup added that may work too.  If Powertech offers custom work to add more cup at the factory, I would order it that way from them.

it’s a 140 for sure, I’m sorry for the confusion on the post! My sausage fingers always mistype! I really appreciate the advice though, I’ll definitely look into trying one of those and checking on the height. Anyone think I should addd a jackplate (which I would love to do) but don’t know if it’s actually worth it?

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26 minutes ago, bennetmp said:

it’s a 140 for sure, I’m sorry for the confusion on the post! My sausage fingers always mistype! I really appreciate the advice though, I’ll definitely look into trying one of those and checking on the height. Anyone think I should addd a jackplate (which I would love to do) but don’t know if it’s actually worth it?

No apology necessary!  Your MA restoration turned out great!  A jack plate can be an awesome tool to adjust motor height and ride on the fly, if it's setup correctly.  If it's not setup correctly (with a short setback), your prop will ventilate more because the jack plate has at least 1.5" of additional motor height built into it.

Here's another recent thread with some more info:

 

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