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Ameritrail trailer Maeintenance


auwhaler

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My Ameritrail Trailer is five years old and other than greasing the bearings I have not had anything worked on.

This summer we are taking a trip to the keys from Pensacola. Any recomendations on what I should get done before the trip to avoid a mishap?

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Be careful with the brakes. My Ameritrail has Tie Down disc brakes. I had a caliper stick after two seasons of use. When a caliper sticks, the brake will not fully release which can cause hub overheating, loss of grease, followed by hub seizure and possible loss of wheel. I caught mine when I noticed steam coming off my wheel when I backed my trailer into the water. It can be a very serious problem. My marina recommends replacing the brakes every 3 seasons. Best of luck.

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Make sure you grease all the lug nuts. I got stuck on the side of 95 one time with a flat, because I could not get two of the lug nuts off. Had to put the boat and trailer on a flatbed. Even with an impact gun they did not come off. $175 later and two hours out of the day, and I was on my way. Minus two bolts.

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I live in Atlanta and tow down to the Everglades National Park 3 or 4 times a year, GA Coast, South Carolina Coast, Tennessee River, etc. Lots of miles on a 2009 trailer. Clean and grease bearings every Fall, check tire pressure before each trip and never a problem.

These trailers are built (to use my Father's favorite expression) like a brick $hithouse. Very well built, over-built you might say. I think they make one of the best made products in the US.

Of course, my current trailer does not have brakes (20 ft boat). But I am about to enter the world of brakes that get dipped in salt water every week by ordering a new 2200 TRS.

George at Linsey Marine strongly recommends carrying a garden sprayer with fresh water (and maybe a product called "Salt Away" or something like that) and TO SPRAY THE BRAKES JUST AFTER LAUNCHING so they do not bake in the sun all day with salt on them while you are out fishing. Of course, wash them down after loading the boat as well when you rinse the boat and flush the motor.

I do not stay at a hotel that does not have an outside faucet that I can use upon arrival.

That ought to do it. Good luck.

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SaltAway and a garden sprayer with fresh water works great. I keep the salt away in a spray bottle and hit the brakes and axle pivots after pulling the trailer out of the water. Let it sit for a few minutes and then rinse with fresh water from the sprayer. If you don't want to carry the sprayer, keep a bucket on the boat and fill it with fresh water from the fresh water tank (if boat is equipped with one) and dump water on the brakes from bucket.

I also use a healthy dose of silicone spray around the trailer before storing....My boat is dry raked but the trailer lives outside most of the time. So it gets coated with silicone - tops of brake calipers, u bolts, tie downs, etc...

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If you do have brakes, jack up the trailer and check that they are turning smoothly and not 'stuck'. That is a good indication that you are having brake issues.

Outside of what has been said, if you have not changed the rear seals on your hubs, you should check those. Look for grease spitting out of the back of the hubs onto the inside of the wheels. If you have changed them, great!! They usually last 2 to 3 years at best.

Good luck-luck favors the prepared.

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Well, after 5 years I'd say you are due for new bearings, cones and seals. There cheap insurance. With regard to brakes, I'd look at the pads or more specifically the metal backing on the pads. They have a history of rusting, then separating in layers (like a biscuit). This pushes against the rotors and lock-ups your brakes. They are also cheap.

You are going to get all kinds of opinions about calipers. Basically they are all made identical (only one moving part). The only difference is, what material they are made of. If you are good a maintenance then most any material will work for you. But, if you don't like maintenance, then you should go with S/S calipers.

Make sure you take two spare tires with you (might have to borrow one from a friend). And take a spare hub with bearings already in-place and greased. You'll need a jack that will work on your trailer and some plywood to put under your jack just incase you are in the dirt or sand.

If you don't have "Acorn" style lug nuts, get some. They encapsulate the threaded lugs. Put some grease or lube on the threads and tighten down the nuts.

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Make sure you grease all the lug nuts. I got stuck on the side of 95 one time with a flat, because I could not get two of the lug nuts off. Had to put the boat and trailer on a flatbed. Even with an impact gun they did not come off. $175 later and two hours out of the day, and I was on my way. Minus two bolts.

Just pull the hub off if this happens. I had the same thing happen on a hewes 16 I owned. Blew tire and snapped 2 studs. Pulled the hub off which took the wheel/tire with it. Put a new hub on with the spare tire and was good to go

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I live in Atlanta and tow down to the Everglades National Park 3 or 4 times a year, GA Coast, South Carolina Coast, Tennessee River, etc. Lots of miles on a 2009 trailer. Clean and grease bearings every Fall, check tire pressure before each trip and never a problem.

These trailers are built (to use my Father's favorite expression) like a brick $hithouse. Very well built, over-built you might say. I think they make one of the best made products in the US.

Of course, my current trailer does not have brakes (20 ft boat). But I am about to enter the world of brakes that get dipped in salt water every week by ordering a new 2200 TRS.

George at Linsey Marine strongly recommends carrying a garden sprayer with fresh water (and maybe a product called "Salt Away" or something like that) and TO SPRAY THE BRAKES JUST AFTER LAUNCHING so they do not bake in the sun all day with salt on them while you are out fishing. Of course, wash them down after loading the boat as well when you rinse the boat and flush the motor.

I do not stay at a hotel that does not have an outside faucet that I can use upon arrival.

That ought to do it. Good luck.

Before you finalize purchase check out sporttrail trailers. Much better than ameratrail. Ameratrail is nice and tows nice, but I look at some things and wonder what they were thinking (not isolating metals, trailer jack wheels that cannot be raised and hit on every bump, wiring loose that rubs on bolt threads and cuts your main harness, etc. This is coming from someone who has a brand new ameratrail. My next boat will most likely have a sporttrail

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No website, but Kevin is known across the industry for fantastic customer service, and the craftsmanship on the trailers is incredible. My black boat is scratched from the bow digging between the 2 bunks, and kevin adds white slats between bunks to stop this. Check out the welds and how everything is isolated. I have no affiliation at all by the way. Phone number is listed on the facebook page. You can google reviews and such as well

https://www.facebook.com/Sport-Trail-LLC-402970133061278/

Some links of work:

http://www.thehulltruth.com/trucks-trailers/503668-sport-trail-trailer-bluewater-2550-a.html

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-how-s-kerno-memorial-forum/488481-2005-23-25t-contender-facelift.html

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Sorry for the hijack OP, my recommendation would be to bring 2 spare tires and rims, bring at least 1 pre packed and ***embled hub. Also dont forget the jack and any tools needed. Most importantly, have the tires at max psi and check for cracking. If torsion axle, try to keep the trailer level. Id do a couple pumps of grease, but be careful not to blow out the seal. A cheap investment a lot of people use is a laser thermometer and they will shoot each hub while at a rest stop. This monitors temperature and if one is much warmer you know it may have an issue. Good luck!

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Put the trailer on jack stands and pull both hubs. Clean out all the grease and thoroughly inspect all bearings and races for wear and pitting. If that is too much trouble then just replace both hubs and keep an old one as an ***embled back up. Thoroughly inspect the galvanized axle for fatigue, rust and corrosion. Keep antiseize or grease on the lugs and nuts. If your tires are 5 years old it's time to replace those as well. Get steel valve stems and have them balanced. Bring two spares and you should be good to go.

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Didn't have a hub on the side of the road.

Lesson learned.

Understood. Another note is if you have tandem torsion axles and have some happen where you are stuck. You can pull one wheel/tire off and continue driving. I wouldn't do it for very long or at high speed. But it will at least get you to a walmart or similar.

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My Ameritrail Trailer is five years old and other than greasing the bearings I have not had anything worked on.

This summer we are taking a trip to the keys from Pensacola. Any recomendations on what I should get done before the trip to avoid a mishap?

All above and would add a few items:

1.) large blocks of 2x8x24 in the back of the PU bed

2.) some extra blankets to lay on

3.) Large wrenches to get the hubs off

4.) a 4 ton floor jack - not one of those simple tiny jacks....you want something that will lift the entire side of the trailer frame

5.) Jack stands

6.) Yes, buy new hubs and tires and have them balanced

7.) Be sure to get the GOLD standard towing insurance from Boat US or SeaTow

8.) MOST IMPORTANT -

.

.

.

.

LEAVE THE BOAT, SAVE THE GRIEF, FLY TO THE KEYS, GET A GUIDE AND ENJOY !!! lol

NAAAAH. it's part of the adventure....

dc

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May I recommend using Lucas Red & Tacky grease. The stuff is phenomenal!

Your trailer should have a center point grease fitting(center of the spline) if so just jack up the wheel and spin it backwards while you pump in grease. The old grease will flow out the front of the hub as the new grease replaces it.

Another suggestion, go to West marine and purchase a pre lubed hub ***y. do not open it unless you need it on the road. After your trip return to West for a refund. (You did not hear that from here.)

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May I recommend using Lucas Red & Tacky grease. The stuff is phenomenal!

Your trailer should have a center point grease fitting(center of the spline) if so just jack up the wheel and spin it backwards while you pump in grease. The old grease will flow out the front of the hub as the new grease replaces it.

Another suggestion, go to West marine and purchase a pre lubed hub ***y. do not open it unless you need it on the road. After your trip return to West for a refund. (You did not hear that from here.)

I do that all the time...you are within the return policy....nothing wrong with that....

dc

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