insulating hatch lids?

[Drummer]

Has anybody tried to insulate the hatch lids on their boat? Maybe with "Great Stuff" or something similar? My LT18 compartments are nicely insulated, but the lids are not. All ideas and thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

[Shallowminded6]

Lemme know if you figure something out for it. Will do it to mine too. You have moisture in your hatches?

[triplec]

I use one as a cooler on some short quick trips and used SeaDek to add a little extra insulation. That coupled with a flexible artificial ice mat will hold ice in there all day now.

[SCFD rtrd.]

The sea-deck is a good idea. But, I you want to go cheap, get a Styrofoam board from Home Depot, cut to fit and adhere with silicone caulk. The silicone is easy to remove later if you want.

[Grant]

Our business does a lot of work with insulated packaging systems so I've worked with a lot of materials. There are a lot of effective options out there, but insulating panels that utilize actual foil facings can be especially helpful. It will stop the radiant heat in it's tracks. You can pick up foil backed foam insulation panels at building supply stores that will do a great job.

Also, there is also a simple trick that will greatly extend the effectiveness of ANY cooler setup.

Cover the payload and ice inside the cooler with something to contain the coldest air in the bottom of the cooler. A towel, piece of tarp, insulating panel, or even sheets of newspaper will work as long as it reaches all sides of the cooler. Anything to keep air from freely circulating over the surface of the ice will work. I normally use old towels unless it's the fish cooler. As a bonus, that wet ice cold towel feels pretty darn good by the end of the day !

Try it. You will be amazed.

[triplec]

Grant is spot on...anything on top helps for sure! I like the mat over the towel but cool towels in July are handy!

[Drummer]

I do get some moisture in the dry storage area, but not too much. My port hatch up front is used as a food and drink cooler. The port stern hatch is not plumbed, so I use it as the fish cooler. Both work great, just want to add some insulation on the top.

[Drummer]

Great idea on the foil backed foam board. I'll look into that as well. Thank you.

[Shallowminded6]

I use mine the same way. Great ideas out of this thread.

[fishmanjj]

The fish are fine just being cool, but the beer has to be ice cold.

[johnd]

Great suggestion Grant.

Large fish box lid idea? When I put an insulated fish bag in, keeps ice solid all day..but greatly reduces #of fish I can store. What could I attach to inside of lid that a flopping dolphin won't break into prices? (Why I haven't used foil board).

[smilemaker]

How fancy and how much work do you want to put into the project? Some gl*** knowledge and ability required but degree of finished surface is where the work comes in.

1. Cut some closed cell insulated foam to fit the hatch opening.(Foam sheets used for home insulation is usually closed cell but ask when buying. 1" should be ok but could go 1 1/2". Give some room on sides for the gl***,and closing the lid. Hinges close at an angle so you must allow some room for the far side to close.

2. Bond the foam to the lid with some gl*** mat and check for fit and wiggle room for the gl***.

3. Remove the hatch and lay flat. Cover with a layer of mat and then a layer of cloth. keep everything adapted well. rounding the edges of the foam will help applying the gl*** mat and cloth.

4. Sand and fill surface with filled thickened resin Cabosil or hollow beads.

As with any gl*** project start with a clean sanded surface.

I have done this before and the hardest part is taking your time to sand fill sand to get a good smooth result.

[Grant]

If you can give me a little time I may be able to put something together, or at least suggest a solution that would hold up better in fish boxes. Gl***ing in the insulation will definitely work, but I should be able to offer a simpler option.

I did some checking on the foil backed foam insulation planks normally available, and that type of foam is more likely to absorb moisture than other choices.

Let me work on a method to seal it or utilize a different foam.

[smilemaker]

The potential problem with foil backing is that it may peel off. For a short term try before gl***ing it in I would just glue on 1 1/2 closed cell foam shape and see how it performs.

[Grant]

I think I found a method to encase effective foam insulation in a heavy duty weatherproof polyurethane shell. This would allow making sealed insulating panels (like cooler walls) in custom sizes and shapes.

Waiting for more information from the manufacturer, but so far it looks very promising for the fish box scenario.

[MrBobK]

I have used some self-stick neoprene that I got off of EBay to insulate the front hatch in my kayak. It's real similar to what came on the fish box lid of my NauticStar, but I haven't been able to find any quite as thick. It helps for sure, not as much as some of the other suggestions here, but it is easy and inexpensive.

[johnd]

Plenty of time to wait.. Past weekend my buddy's boat sprung a leak...a fuel leak. The tanks are under the fish boxes, so boxes are out and this weekend we tackle removing the fuel tanks..getting new ones made..installing. Obviously more than a one weekend project

[Shallowminded6]

Send pics of the new boxes is possible. Would like to see how the fuel tank removal and patch job goes.

[Grant]

Sorry for the delay. Playing catchup after a long weekend. Got in the product I wanted to try. Cut a 1" x 12" X 18" panel of foil lined polyiso insulation (R6) to fit my release well / fish box hatch. Pics show foam after initial cutting & sanding of edges, 1st coat of product, and 3rd coat of product, all rolled on.

Each coat took 1/2 hour before handling and another hour before "dry". I think they prefer 4-6 hours between coats, but we'll see how it works 2 hours apart (cause I'm impatient) This stuff cures to a white gloss finish and is tough as nails so lively fish won't hurt it. I actually think you could stand on it. It's sandable, paintable and is specifically designed to coat and seal foam into structural material.

I will probably use at least another coat since the first one went on so thin last night. Apparently when they said it needs to be well over 70 degrees to apply, they weren't kidding. Anyway, I still have to coat the foil side to seal everything up, but I think this will be a viable alternative to gl***ing foam to the lids. These panels could be installed with a removeable marine sealant. I'd probably seal around the edges as well to keep gack from accumulating behind it.

Product is called Styrospray 1000. They were very careful to tell me it hasn't been rated for direct food contact like a conventional cooler, so if it's a concern it can be painted or coated with whatever you choose.

Let me know what size will fit in your hatch opening. I may have enough material to knock one out for you to try.

[johnd]

Want to thank Grant, for his posts, direct emails & even a phone call with tips.  Folks sharing is what makes this forum so valuable  (that and Terry for keeping it running)

i did experiment yesterday and based on Grants suggestions learned this can be done.  I purchased 4x8 sheet of GAF foam board at Home Depot, $10 for 1/2".  Note:. You MUST use Polyiso foam board.  Not xps, not styrofoam. POLISO board only.

i cut a few pieces for size, glued a few together for added thickness leaving one side (up to hatch bottom) with silver foil radiant barrier exposed.  Then I simply glassed it..one layer of matt.  My temporary solution to glue to underside of hatch, but if experiment works I would remove hatch, flip and glass the insulation panel to hatch.