localangler Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 On the bilge pumps Maverick uses a 3 pin Deutsch connection to tie the bilge pump into the wiring harness. Unfortunately a pin on my hot wire for the auto switch had corrosion and broke off with the pin sitting in the female half off the plug. Have others been replacing these connectors with the same style or going traditional with either solder or butt splicing with the appropriate weather protection? I like that plug but it doesn't look like I am equipped to do maintenance on it. It is the 3 wire plug in the picture, I couldn't take the picture and point at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 Plenty of places on the web to buy kits for deutch connectors. Requires a specific crimper so a little pricey but at least you'll be able to quickly swap out a pump if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted May 7, 2016 Report Share Posted May 7, 2016 I found a Chinese copy of a Deutch crimper that was reasonable on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Let me know how the Chinese crimper works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justdriftin Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Looked into getting the crimper a while back to make my own deutch plugs but by the time I bought a decent crimper and parts, it would be a couple hundred bucks. Decided just to solder and use heat shrinks. The place where it would be most helpful though, would be on the livewell pumps. Would be nice to have cartridges rigged up to plug and play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 14 hours ago, justdriftin said: Looked into getting the crimper a while back to make my own deutch plugs but by the time I bought a decent crimper and parts, it would be a couple hundred bucks. Decided just to solder and use heat shrinks. The place where it would be most helpful though, would be on the livewell pumps. Would be nice to have cartridges rigged up to plug and play I used to have the same in my Pathy and I carry one in my skinny Mini 17T - it has two already. In the event of an on the water failure, you just cut and crimp....heat shrink and solder when you get back t the dock. Hobo on the forum always preached, solder, and double heat shrink are the best connections when completed properly... I do this, and when lazy, I just use a single heat shrink, spread some 5200 all over the wire and crimp to seal it, then heat shrink....it works well on the trailer connectors where they are placed under water... DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localangler Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Thanks for the input guys, I haven't ever had issues with heat shrink when done correctly so I'll probably just go that route. The plug was nice but I don't believe I'll replace it with another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Get rid of those connectors, they will just corrode. Best to use hear shrink crimp splice, then heat shrink over it. If you wanna little more protection, liquid electrical tape over the heat shrink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Troy Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 8 hours ago, hurricane said: Get rid of those connectors, they will just corrode. Best to use hear shrink crimp splice, then heat shrink over it. If you wanna little more protection, liquid electrical tape over the heat shrink. This^^^^^^^ They are not what they are cracked up to be. I have alerted many on the case where they are subjected to being in a shroud that holds water to make things look pretty. They will fail and have on my boat in every application. Granted, they were nice when new but have no place in a bilge. They cost too much to start with and the crimping to replace can not be accomplished in the bilge of a flats boat. Just try doing the male female connection compression fitting in the bilge with the specialized tool and all of the BS you have to do. Mine lasted 6 years and then all heck broke loose. I have all the mil-spec tools to replace and could not get it done in the bilge of my boat. I cut every one of them out and extended the factory wiring so I can pull pumps and such and splice via butt connectors while working in my splash well. Heat shrink them and move on. In a Fairly dry environment they would be my go to quick connect and disconnect. In a Bilge area not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Truth...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Troy Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 This is what happens when the shroud gets water in it and submerges the connector in water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localangler Posted May 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 Ouch, looks like mine was just the victim of salt air and corrosion. Yours could of ended up a lot worse. I'm definitely going to the tried and true method in the bilge area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 Ouch....x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarpon Terry Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 I'm pretty sure about this, but from what I recall about Hobo's instructions - To attach two wires: Use a heat shrink butt connector. That means, stripping the 2 wires to be connected. Insert and tightly crimp both wires. Using a heat gun, shrink the butt connector securely. This means looking for some of the bubbles to emerge from the end of the connector. Then add heat shrink tubing over the butt connector, overlapping the end of the connector by about an half inch on each end. It doesn't hurt to use two layers. For me, I do the all of the above and then paint on liquid electrical tape over the heat shrink. I could be wrong about the following: Soldering is not to be considered, due to the amount of vibration that is endured by the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 11 hours ago, Tarpon Terry said: I could be wrong about the following: Soldering is not to be considered, due to the amount of vibration that is endured by the wires. This is what I have always been told, and done as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 2 hours ago, jason p said: This is what I have always been told, and done as well. I've had very good luck with soldering and using shrink wrap. I don't believe a little vibration alone, will cause a solder joint to fail. There has to be wire bending to make a solder joint fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Troy Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Heat shrink crimp connectors and then heat shrink over the heat shrink butt connectors. Soldering is ok but remember that the flux in the wire solder is corrosive by nature. And, you still need to heat shrink the soldered joints. The reason for the double heat shrink is that if the crimps aren't properly done you can compromise the heat shrink by over crimping. As the example I showed in the earlier pic I would recommend using the mesh type cover for wires in the bilge. Something that doesn't hold water. I can't really complain as at almost 7 years this is my first wiring issue. I figure with a 1000 plus engine hours the boat has been in use wet about 8000 hours. I look a lot rougher than the boat these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 Vibration to solder is like Kryptonite to Superman. It really is the major downfall to solder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 A variation on the butt joint that works for me is to crimp with a shrink butt joint then apply liquid tape. Immediately apply slide shrink wrap over the liquid tape overlapping 1/2 inch on each side. As you heat the shrink wrap the liquid tape is compressed and seals everything. This makes for a neater connection compared to the liquid tape as the last coat. For a quick disconnect on pumps I have a terminal block mounted high in the bilge with the hot and ground for each pump terminating on the block. The pumps have a spade terminal attached as above and are placed on the terminal block to match the switch and liberally coated with liquid tape or corrosion block. For a quick pump change remove the spade connector and place new pump that already has spade connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 The problem with shrink able butt connectors is they (As Troy said) are compromised from over crimping and they are too expensive. I buy non insulated butt connectors and clear epoxy filled heat shrink. Your crimped area is a not big and bulky like standard butt connectors and it is completely sealed. I have taken apart my crimps on failed pumps and accessories to show people the crimp is still holding true and clean as a whistle. Your crimps will outlast your pumps that's for sure. I buy all the stuff off eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Good stuff, for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Troy Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Beats the heck out of WM price of over a Buck a piece, http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-309099-Electrical-Insulated-Connectors/dp/B000NI5C52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463485760&sr=8-1&keywords=anchor+heat+shrink+butt+connectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS3-480 Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 These connectors work great if you can tie them up high in the bilge area & keep them as dry as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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