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Bad Battery or Bad Charger


Nehrke

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So, smelled a bit burney in the garage last night around the boat so I unplugged the charger. When I investigated further I found that one of the trolling motor batteries had both tops blown off and a small crack in the top. Fluid was very low as well. 

Fluid has not been checked in 10-12 months, so likely could have been low, which can lead to issues. 

Question is this - is there an easy way to test if it was just a bad battery (more like bad owner not keeping fluid topped off)or if there is an issue with the charger?

I have a 24V trolling system with a 3 battery for cranking. Batteries for troller are Duralasts. Charger is a Guest  ChargePro 10/10/10, so it should not fry. I appreciate any insight. Thanks - Nehrke

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You can buy a good meter that will check a number of electrical issues. I check my charging system and batteries regularly to be sure the charger is doing it's job correctly. Your problem was more than likely low water in the battery, which caused a build-up of explosive gas within the battery.

 The only way to test the system now, is to install a new battery and check the voltage on each battery. Then plug in the charger and check the voltage again. This will determine if the charger is delivering the correct charge to each battery. When the charging is complete, check each battery again with the charger on. Again, this will tell you if the charger is doing it's job. The charging volts should drop down to a maintence charge when the charger shows the charging is complete.

  I never leave my charger on overnight when my boat is in my shop/garage. Just too many electrical issues that might cause a fire. I charge my batteries during the day when I'm home and can check on them every once in a while.   

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Sounds like a bad charger that didn't go into float mode when the charging was done.  Basically the charger boiled the fluid out of the battery.  BTW I put a trickle charger on both my cars and boats that are stored for up to six months.  Have done it for over ten yrs and no issues.  The trickle charger is only 2 amps,but still no issues.

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1 hour ago, bigsnook35 said:

Love that setup. More information please. 

Hi All! Thanks for info. I just bought two Barracuda AGMs as replacements, and now I need to monitor the charger to answer the original question - bad battery, or bad charger. Have a buddy who is a navy electronics tech with the instruments, so fingers crossed.

 

As for the above - Do tell TT! If I need a new charger Stealth AC is at the top of the list, but interested in what you have. Can we extend the cord without a power drop so I can get it outside my garage? I am a civil engineer, but barely made it through elec engr.......I learned Mr paper clip and Mr electric outlet do not play well together, beyond that, it is all a mystery!

Looks awesome for remote trips - is there somewhere it mounts so you can charge during the day while fishing? Thinking at end of day there is not enough sun left to make big difference. Thanks!

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After a lot of investigation and engineering forethought, I decided to utilize three independent solar chargers.  Researching the industry, I found that Battery Tender had the best and most reasonable option.  Each charger is water proof (more like water resistant) and has a charge controller.    I mounted them on strips of Aluminum found at Lowes.  On Amazon.com, I found the wire cables that attach to the batteries.  They are fused.  I then order much longer cables that would go from the batteries in the console up to the solar collectors. 

The advantage of the charge controllers, is that they do not back charge at night, and they do prevent overcharging.

Don't expect to get your exhausted trolling motor batteries fully charged in one day.  Because of limited space available, I had to limit the size and therefore the output of the chargers.

I checked them today and all three showed a full charge at 13.0 volts.

This setup is great for me as I am now able to load up the rods at home, drive to the storage site, remove the chargers and boat cover, hook up the boat and drive to Tarpon Springs all the time knowing that my batteries are fully charged.  Afterward, I dunk the boat and trailer in fresh water at Lake Tarpon.  Using the raw water pump, I flush down the interior of the boat while I run the motor.  Finally, I take the boat back to storage and put her away.

This beats my old process of having to get the boat, taking it to the house to charge the batteries and then taking the boat back to the house and cleaning it up and then taking it back to storage.  Saves me and hour getting and returning the boat.

 

SORRY FOR DERALING THE IMPORTANT TOPICS OF BATTERIES AND CHARGERS.

As for the charger issue, I'd first discharge a sample battery down to about 12.2 volts and then initiate the charger.  Take the voltage each hour. The charger should be showing an increasing voltage until it reaches something like 14.3 volts after about 8-10 hours.  This depends in the power of the charger and the size of the battery. It then should begin to taper back to something like 13.0 volts.  If it does not taper off from the 14+ volts, then you probably have a defective charger. 

Go to the Battery Tender website for some interesting info.  Also, Dual Pro might have good information.  I have Dual Pro on board.

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Sounds like a bad battery, Nehrke. 

Those that have good batteries hooked up to a Stealth AC/DC charging system need not worry about their batteries being charged. That system continuously charges your batteries while your boat is running and you also have the option to plug in any time just to make sure your batteries are full. Usually a 20-30 minute run back to the ramp will have all 3 of my batteries fully charged, even after a long day using the TM. I rarely plug-in for a charge (even after my boat sits for weeks at a time) but when I do the green lights usually come on within 5-10 minutes. No other charging system needed. No fiddling around with cables, solar panels or controllers. Saves time and money. It's a no-brainer!

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We measured the input into the batteries and they came in right at 0.1 Amps, so spike the ball, bad battery! Was able to upgrade to two AGMs for $217 out the door, which is nice!

Appreciate all the input and help - you guys are the best! Thanks - Nehrke

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