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18.5 MA Starting Batt to Console?


tidewater

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I have a 1992 MA 18.5 and am in the process of rewiring the boat. Considering moving the starting Battery to the console. Trolling Batts are under the front seat portion of the console. Any pros or cons other than moving weight forward?

While I'm at it I would like to find a way to run the trolling motor Cables directly forward rather than the current route from the console to the stern all the way forward. Wondering how I can fish them forward from the console directly rather than to the stern first!

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My 87 MA had all three batteries in the console.  The only downside is that you loose any storage option in the console, which is a bummer, but that was the only downside.   My 87 didn't have trim tabs and it NEVER porpoised.  The fuel tank was also in the bow, though, so I think all that weight forward helped the boat run very smoothly.

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Thanks for the reply, I know it will be a squeeze under the console, but I think I can put/mount the battery charger under the lid of the forward seat on the console. I don't use the space for storage so that is not a problem. I have adequate space in other hatches and forward livewells that I have disconnected because they are not needed.

It's been quite an adventure with this rewire, I hope I can figure out the trolling motor wiring. will probably not use those as a backup to my main battery.  In the end I'll know exactly where all wires go and what they do. tight now it is an accumulated spaghetti farm from the last 25+ years.

I rarely need to use my tabs up here so I'm considering getting rid of them as well, but I'm going to see how different weight distribution might change performance. I porpoise at only a very small windoe of speed and not much at that. I just speed up 3-5 mph and problem solved.

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I was pretty sure I was going to get this response. I'll certainly leave them in place for now. I have rarely if ever used them as intended for really shallow water. Mine are old hydraulics, may or may not work, anyone use the electric version? is the conversion straight forward, difficult, expensive? Just looking down the road if it comes to that..

Thanks for the input/opinions.. :-) :-)

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OK the tabs stay, and the battery moves forward. :-) :-)   I think I saw a post years ago where someone mounted their battery charger on the under side of the lid on the front seat attached to the console. Anyone else done this to save room in the back of the console? I'll have to take a few measurements to make sure there is room over the 2 trolling motor batteries below.

I think with most of the electronics under the console with the 3 batteries the wiring runs should be shorter and the bilge cleaned up quite a bit. Still have to figure out how to fish the trolling motor cables from the console forward without going aft first. suggestions??

Thanks for your input!

 

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Tide, My 96 they go down inside console and forward from there and don't go aft. Are your forward nav lights bow mounted? Maybe use that wire as a pull forward? Are you sure they go aft and then forward? If so, are they one long run or pieced together in the rear somehow? My OEM (granted its not same year) troll run was down and forward from below console. In my experience most OEM boat wiring is all about using as little runs i.e. cost as possible so I suspect there is a way/chase/route forward for ya there somewhere. 

Also I have the Stealth system but rather than hang it from the console lid I made a shelf above batteries. There is enough room but barely. Can post up a photo tomorrow if you need one.

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On 10/19/2017 at 8:06 PM, tidewater said:

OK the tabs stay, and the battery moves forward. :-) :-)   I think I saw a post years ago where someone mounted their battery charger on the under side of the lid on the front seat attached to the console. Anyone else done this to save room in the back of the console? I'll have to take a few measurements to make sure there is room over the 2 trolling motor batteries below.

I think with most of the electronics under the console with the 3 batteries the wiring runs should be shorter and the bilge cleaned up quite a bit. Still have to figure out how to fish the trolling motor cables from the console forward without going aft first. suggestions??

Thanks for your input!

 

RAN the MA17 in 20kt winds yesterday....lifted the bow into the wind.....ran like a champ.....we b wet?  You nose dats rite....no way to stop that...but.....tabs=goodride :)

 

dc

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Triplec-- I agree, the battery runs seem very long and that is what I'm going to attack next.  I am going to rewire the TMs as a  stand alone 24v power source and not use HOBO's backup wiring by going back to battery switch  in  the stern. My bow light is deck mounted and that's a good idea to use the wires as a pull. I'm replacing all those wires anyway so I'll just pull an extra line for the TM cables.

I have mounted epoxy coated plywood panels on the inside of my console on the port side and front for mounting some electronic components. I also cut away the port side of my shelf in the console. this gives me much greater access to everything mounted inside as well as all the instruments mounted on the top of the console. I'll try to post a few pictures when I get a chance.

If this seems excessive to some of you, remember I'm 74 and not a as limber as an eel. Working inside of that console mounted on the boat, while lying on my back trying to emulate advanced yoga poses to change fuse is no longer in my handbook of boat repair. :-) :-)

Always appreciate your input! Tks

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