fin-addict Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 I like the open look. put hinges on the t-top so it can clear where needed. ever think of raising the garage/workshop/mancave. !!!!!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Insane. Just insane! Hang in there, and let me know when you're ready to start swinging hammers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 12 hours ago, fin-addict said: I like the open look. put hinges on the t-top so it can clear where needed. ever think of raising the garage/workshop/mancave. !!!!!! LOL I’ll have to look into the folding t top thing. I should have 8’ and that seems kinda tight... Raising the garage isn’t in the budget unfortunately. However, I am “floodproofing” it as much as possible given the fact that I have to have flood vents in the walls. After Matthew, I made almost all the storage above 2’...a couple sets of sawhorses and sheets of plywood and I can have everything else up pretty quick I am not insulating or putting drywall back in where I flood cut it. Instead going to “waistcoat” the bottom 3’ with corrugated metal. Shoud be more durable anyways and if it ever floods again, I will unscrew it and hose it out and screw it back on. Plus it will look like a Chiplote up in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 26, 2017 Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 like the idea of the wall covering, way too go. !!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 On 12/25/2017 at 9:56 PM, justfish said: I am not insulating or putting drywall back in where I flood cut it. Instead going to “waistcoat” the bottom 3’ with corrugated metal. Shoud be more durable anyways and if it ever floods again, I will unscrew it and hose it out and screw it back on. Plus it will look like a Chiplote up in there. Contrary to popular belief, It doesn't hurt your ears to use your head, (old FD saying). Good move on the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Things kinda slowed up a lil over holidays and rainy weather we’ve had. Should start seeing the foundation moving forward next week. Here’s beginning of year/end of year pic... Safe to say our 2017 kinda sucked ...but definitely ended on a higher note! Happy new year everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 For those interested - Had some engineering changes made I think for the better. The plan is that the right side would be parking for Jeep, maybe a boat etc and center would be a covered sitting area and far left enclosed storage. So we were able to get rid of one set of piers on the right side to allow a much bigger area to pull into. It now spans 15’2 (rather than 10ish) so almost a full garage size opening. This will also make the outdoor seating area nicer without an additional pier in back. This is the new foundation changes as you would drive up to house Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMB MEGALOPS Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 8 hours ago, justfish said: For those interested - Had some engineering changes made I think for the better. The plan is that the right side would be parking for Jeep, maybe a boat etc and center would be a covered sitting area and far left enclosed storage. So we were able to get rid of one set of piers on the right side to allow a much bigger area to pull into. It now spans 15’2 (rather than 10ish) so almost a full garage size opening. This will also make the outdoor seating area nicer without an additional pier in back. This is the new foundation changes as you would drive up to house Absolutely a great decision! I can't tell you how much you'll appreciate that in the future for a multitude of reasons. Nicely done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Yes I think so. It’s very strange how much different it feels now that it’s up. My plans have changed a number of times already and I’m sure will continue. Meeting with GC there tomorrow to make sure we figure out all the plumbing that needs to go below before concrete is poured.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 We have a pool so will need to to “close” front off for code and security for stuff we want to store down there. This will just be up front as I will have gates on side. I still want to keep it as “open” as possible for lighting and mostly air flow. Here are some of the ideas I’m looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Good move on making the bays wider. I really like the horizontal wood look between the pilings. Any chance to get this material made from PVC or Vinyl? No painting or rot. I've seen lots of elevated homes with Vinyl lattice on the ground floor, that looks good also. Have you thought about installing screen on the inside of the flood walls, to prevent insects from getting under the home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 I’m gonna look at all options -wood, PVC, trex, etc as far as screen...we talked about it. If we did it we would likely have to wait. We really don’t have much of a bug problem except the no see ums and they are only active an hour or so at dusk. I plan on installing some ceiling fans down there...hoping that handles them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Whatever style or material you choose, it has to meet the standards to allow water to flow through. Where do you get those standards/codes? County, FEMA?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 We were in Choko over Christmas and driving back to CIP. Got turned around and went down a street with several raised houses. Noticed a big flat screen going with guy watching game under the house. Had a really nice man cave setup. We stayed in P.Cola Beach last Spring and the house had an open area below that had a gas grill and Big Green Egg. Enough room for corn hole and bimini ring game. Plenty of usable space. They also had an interior section in there that was THE main man cave but we didn't have access to it. Lots of potential with that thing in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 10 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said: Whatever style or material you choose, it has to meet the standards to allow water to flow through. Where do you get those standards/codes? County, FEMA?? FEMA requires it. There is a formula that requires a certain number of open square inches for certain number of square feet. For my garage I needed 8 16"x8" ish vents. Whatever I do down there will be pretty open for air flow so shouldn't be an issue. I will double check all that before, cause if I mess that part up the new slab will then be my finished floor they rate the insurance off of. I want it rated on the new 18' elevation not 7' Obviously...my insurance would. Heck my insurance would actually go up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 Finally something to add... the plan change and rainy weather has slowed things down as far as getting footers going, but they are finally dug. They are actually going right on top of original footers so should be super stable. The slab will be approx 4” above the old carport slab so they will pour right on top of that as well Inspection today and hopefully concrete tomorrow. Then piers start. Sorry...Not sure why this site continues to post some pics sideways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Inspection passed, footers are poured, blockwork starts tomorow ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Quote Nothing like changing directions and seeing "construction" instead of "destruction!" That will be good for the soul! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMB MEGALOPS Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 On 1/8/2018 at 9:19 PM, justfish said: FEMA requires it. There is a formula that requires a certain number of open square inches for certain number of square feet. For my garage I needed 8 16"x8" ish vents. Whatever I do down there will be pretty open for air flow so shouldn't be an issue. I will double check all that before, cause if I mess that part up the new slab will then be my finished floor they rate the insurance off of. I want it rated on the new 18' elevation not 7' Obviously...my insurance would. Heck my insurance would actually go up! Hey Buddy, Just a quick FYI that your contractor may not know. If you have a slab down there and if you ever have a significant event that would cause slab damage, you must have the slab tied into the piers with rebar for coverage. This is a fairly new bulletin straight from FEMA for covered slabs in a high hazard elevated home. Just a quick thought since it would be pretty easy to tie rebar into those actual piers now if possible. During major hurricanes with significant wave action we have seen slabs pop right out of the ground. If the slab is not tied into the foundation piers/pilings etc.. there's no coverage. Also the slab needs to be at least 6" thick. Call me if you need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 Hmm ok I might call you to clarify all that. Slab will be last thing he does under there once house is set back down and the giant jenga games are removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 Chad, if you have that bulletin you can forward me so I can to give to contractor, please do. Thanks barmburner4444@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 Piers starting to go up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonV Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 Looks good!! Was wondering, are they going to put re-bar in those supports when they fill with concrete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted January 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 There is rebar going up about 4’ of each of em - right about the top of what to see. Not sure what happens above that to be honest. I am curious as well. I know they will get tied in to existing block and poured from top so maybe they will go in from top for the top half? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonV Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I figure they will keep adding re-bar every four feet as it goes up, much easier to slide the 16 x 16 blocks over. You're looking good!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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