Jump to content

Updated *Its UP* Little blue house that could


justfish

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply
12 hours ago, fin-addict said:

I like the open look. put hinges on the t-top so it can clear where needed. ever think of raising the garage/workshop/mancave. !!!!!! LOL

I’ll have to look into the folding t top thing. I should have 8’ and that seems kinda tight...

Raising the garage isn’t in the budget unfortunately. However, I am “floodproofing” it as much as possible given the fact that I have to have flood vents in the walls. After Matthew, I made almost all the storage above 2’...a couple sets of sawhorses and sheets of plywood and I can have everything else up pretty quick  

I am not insulating or putting drywall back in where I flood cut it. Instead going to “waistcoat” the bottom 3’ with corrugated metal. Shoud be more durable anyways and if it ever floods again, I will unscrew it and hose it out and screw it back on.

Plus it will look like a Chiplote up in there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎12‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 9:56 PM, justfish said:

 

I am not insulating or putting drywall back in where I flood cut it. Instead going to “waistcoat” the bottom 3’ with corrugated metal. Shoud be more durable anyways and if it ever floods again, I will unscrew it and hose it out and screw it back on.

Plus it will look like a Chiplote up in there. 

Contrary to popular belief, It doesn't hurt your ears to use your head, (old FD saying).  Good move on the metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things kinda slowed up a lil over holidays and rainy weather we’ve had.  Should start seeing the foundation moving forward next week.  Here’s beginning of year/end of year pic...

 

Safe to say our 2017 kinda sucked ...but definitely ended on a higher note! Happy new year everyone!

AB8D97E1-25C9-4C55-AAA1-C5CB8D065390.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those interested - Had some engineering changes made I think for the better.

The plan is that the right side would be parking for Jeep, maybe a boat etc and center would be a covered sitting area and far left enclosed storage. So we were able to get rid of one set of piers on the right side to allow a much bigger area to pull into. It now spans 15’2 (rather than 10ish) so almost a full garage size opening.  This will also make the outdoor seating area nicer without an additional pier in back. 

This is the new foundation changes as you would drive up to house  

 

D8758175-77DC-4F9B-910A-66D352A14D36.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, justfish said:

For those interested - Had some engineering changes made I think for the better.

The plan is that the right side would be parking for Jeep, maybe a boat etc and center would be a covered sitting area and far left enclosed storage. So we were able to get rid of one set of piers on the right side to allow a much bigger area to pull into. It now spans 15’2 (rather than 10ish) so almost a full garage size opening.  This will also make the outdoor seating area nicer without an additional pier in back. 

This is the new foundation changes as you would drive up to house  

 

D8758175-77DC-4F9B-910A-66D352A14D36.jpeg

Absolutely a great decision!  I can't tell you how much you'll appreciate that in the future for a multitude of reasons. Nicely done! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I think so. It’s very strange how much different it feels now that it’s up. My plans have changed a number of times already and I’m sure will continue. 

Meeting with GC there tomorrow to make sure we figure out all the plumbing that needs to go below before concrete is poured....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have a pool so will need to to “close” front off for code and security for stuff we want to store down there. This will just be up front as I will have gates on side.  I still want to keep it as “open” as possible for lighting and mostly air flow. 

Here are some of the ideas I’m looking at. 

F5A3124D-1783-4639-B19D-A266242F2372.png

140C31CF-A6E9-435E-9C9B-5DB2E9D60AE7.png

37361BCD-F503-4FEB-902D-F8DDCD1D7147.jpeg

871DF746-6431-4CF2-8264-291F21DD264F.png

FC88AE30-E6F5-4857-A391-F085308796F7.png

411843AE-7E39-4A9C-84E0-CA86551D7877.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good move on making the bays wider. I really like the horizontal wood look between the pilings.  Any chance to get this material made from PVC or Vinyl? No painting or rot. I've seen lots of elevated homes with Vinyl lattice on the ground floor, that looks good also. Have you thought about installing screen on the inside of the flood walls, to prevent insects from getting under the home? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m gonna look at all options -wood, PVC, trex, etc  

as far as screen...we talked about it.  If we did it we would likely have to wait.  We really don’t have much of  a bug problem except the no see ums and they are only active an hour or so at dusk.  I plan on installing some ceiling fans down there...hoping that handles them  

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We were in Choko over Christmas and driving back to CIP.  Got turned around and went down a street with several raised houses.  Noticed a big flat screen going with guy watching game under the house.  Had a really nice man cave setup.  We stayed in P.Cola Beach last Spring and the house had an open area below that had a gas grill and Big Green Egg.  Enough room for corn hole and bimini ring game.  Plenty of usable space.  They also had an interior section in there that was THE main man cave but we didn't have access to it.  Lots of potential with that thing in the air.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Whatever style or material you choose, it has to meet the standards to allow water to flow through. Where do you get those standards/codes? County, FEMA??

FEMA requires it. There is a formula that requires a certain number of open square inches for certain number of square feet.  For my garage I needed 8 16"x8" ish  vents. 

 

Whatever I do down there will be pretty open for air flow so shouldn't be an issue. I will double check all that before, cause if I mess that part up the new slab will then be my finished floor they rate the insurance off of. I want it rated on the new 18' elevation not 7' Obviously...my insurance would. Heck my insurance would actually go up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally something to add...

the plan change and rainy weather has slowed things down as far as getting footers going, but they are finally dug. They are actually going right on top of original footers so should be super stable. The slab will be approx 4” above the old carport slab so they will pour right on top of that as well  

Inspection today and hopefully concrete tomorrow. Then piers start. 

Sorry...Not sure why this site continues to post some pics sideways. 

D715BDE4-E0F8-43AE-8358-0BE1A0605762.jpeg

7CFF4418-7BEA-4CA3-85E9-B5C26D0E5F70.jpeg

3075D0B3-FE75-4944-B7FC-CC8AA002C118.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/8/2018 at 9:19 PM, justfish said:

FEMA requires it. There is a formula that requires a certain number of open square inches for certain number of square feet.  For my garage I needed 8 16"x8" ish  vents. 

 

Whatever I do down there will be pretty open for air flow so shouldn't be an issue. I will double check all that before, cause if I mess that part up the new slab will then be my finished floor they rate the insurance off of. I want it rated on the new 18' elevation not 7' Obviously...my insurance would. Heck my insurance would actually go up!

Hey Buddy,

Just a quick FYI that your contractor may not know. If you have a slab down there and if you ever have a significant event that would cause slab damage, you must have the slab tied into the piers with rebar for coverage. This is a fairly new bulletin straight from FEMA for covered slabs in a high hazard elevated home. Just a quick thought since it would be pretty easy to tie rebar into those actual piers now if possible. 

During major hurricanes with significant wave action we have seen slabs pop right out of the ground. If the slab is not tied into the foundation piers/pilings etc.. there's no coverage. Also the slab needs to be at least 6" thick. 

Call me if you need to. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is rebar going up about 4’ of each of em - right about the top of what to see.   Not sure what happens above that to be honest. I am curious as well. 

I know they will get tied in to existing block and poured from top so maybe they will go  in from top for the top half?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...