SWFL21 Posted September 30, 2018 Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 Hey guys, Long time lurker, new time member! Ive clicked on pretty much every possible link pertaining to a 21' to get as best of an idea as I can about future ownership. Ive recently come across a nice looking 2000 21' MA, with what looks to be a nice condition Yammi 225 ox66. Cant pull data from the engine due to its age, but current owner has no complaints (that hes told me about :P). Ill have a mechanic give it a good once over before sealing the deal too. The boat comes with a new aluminum double axle Rocket trailer, been wet just a handful of times. The hull has new gelcoat, looks to be in great shape too. Unfortunately has bottom paint on it though... Ipilot, Garmin, JP, pretty basic otherwise (which is fine by me). Batteries are 4-5 years old, so ill plan on replacing those sooner than later. My question for you guys is - what should I look for... Already planning on the following - Wet test, WOT overheating issues, hard starting. Stringer issues found by bilge inspection, spider cracks on bottom of hull or transom Electronics work, GPS, nav lights, trolling motor Soft spots in deck/hull Fuel quality seen by crap in filters What else am I missing?? This would be my first $$ boat purchase, currently own a Gheenoe Classic, but that doesnt count Been around boats my whole life, went to college for it too, just want to make sure im not completely blowing past something! Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captpn Posted October 1, 2018 Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 You have listed all good things to look at. 21s are cool for sure, just check the areas that you mentioned. Spend some time on the sea trial. Cruise around, idle around, livewell running, check the bilge, try the tabs, smell for gas... checking for excess water in the bilge (pump kicking on when getting on plane? Could be the live well overflowing or a simple plumbing leak or ...) Check the sea chest area (next to the starboard trim tab) Check the gear oil after the sea trial That's a great motor for the 21. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted October 1, 2018 Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 10 minutes ago, captpn said: You have listed all good things to look at. 21s are cool for sure, just check the areas that you mentioned. Spend some time on the sea trial. Cruise around, idle around, livewell running, check the bilge, try the tabs, smell for gas... checking for excess water in the bilge (pump kicking on when getting on plane? Could be the live well overflowing or a simple plumbing leak or ...) Check the sea chest area (next to the starboard trim tab) Check the gear oil after the sea trial That's a great motor for the 21. All good advise here. The 21's especially older ones have issues with the 5lb putty falling apart between the floor supports and the floor. The signs are stress cracks or slight raised area on the cockpit floor (in front and behind the console). Also check the knees that connect stringers to the transom. Check all around the transom for cracking or signs of separation / delamination. There is a lot of plumbing that goes into these boats with three livewells. Turn everything on and stick your head in the bilge with a flashlight and look around. I'd also take a look at all the 19 year old wiring. Try every switch and use the ones that don't work as negotiation tool. Hard to inspect a bottom with bottom paint but I would still crawl under it and look for any signs of damage, hard hits to trailer or dock, hard beaches etc. Look for cracking around the chines and running pad. OX66 is a great combo for that rig. Spark, compression, fuel and make sure gear case spins with no noise and no wobble in the prop shaft. If there is no bearing noise when rotated by hand and it shifts in and out smoothly, there really isn't a need to check his gearlube (IMO), just change it along with all seals after you buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWFL21 Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 Awesome, glad to hear I was pretty much on the same page. Didnt think about livewells, will definitely check for leaks. Will I be able to get a pretty good view of stingers/transom and knees through the bilge access? Im really hoping not to smell fuel, but whats the ballpark life expectancy on the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWFL21 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2018 Been trying to do some estimates as to cost of fixing broken things... who has done a re-wire of a MA? If you don’t mind me asking, what was the cost? Id be more than happy to take the time and do it myself to save labor costs. Just materials Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsusteve Posted October 12, 2018 Report Share Posted October 12, 2018 On 10/1/2018 at 4:05 PM, SWFL21 said: Awesome, glad to hear I was pretty much on the same page. Didnt think about livewells, will definitely check for leaks. Will I be able to get a pretty good view of stingers/transom and knees through the bilge access? Im really hoping not to smell fuel, but whats the ballpark life expectancy on the tank? There’s a hatch that accesses the fuel sending unit in the seat compartment, from there you can see the tank and the stringers pretty well-ish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdsnook Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 I rewired mine myself also, purchased several old left-over wiring harnesses from "Flounder Pounder" marine to scrape together all the original colors according to the MBC wiring schematic on this site. I probably had 20 hours and 200 bucks in it. If someone has not already done it....you need to cut out the old pie hole in the transom well and install a rectangular hatch as big as you can fit in the space with a removable cover. Other wise hire a trained spider monkey to get in the bilge to route and pull in the wires. And don't forget to put in an extra pull rope/string when your doing it for future use. There are a few threads on here to do the cutting and install of the hatch, then if you get the right colors it is just pull out the old and pull in the new, heat shrink everything with the tubing that has the glue inside it. Then coat all the connections with electrical silicone grease as you plug/bolt/crimp them together. Good luck! Mine is a 2000 also.....repowered with a 2010 200 Merc XS Optimax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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