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Need jack plate help/advice


geeviam

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  • 3 months later...

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! 

The relays are now $16.71 and 30 minutes of wiring and it works. This is awesome. The relays plug into the relay outlets and are pretty hard to get out of and into the outlets bases. The relay outlets bases connect together and I velcro'd them to my terminal area so I can pull them easily if they do go bad. Saved me $140 plus bucks. If you're ever in Jacksonville, FL I'll buy you a beer. 

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Update on the older steel case Atlas Jack Plate Motors that rust. I ordered one from East Lake Marine Electric. It is a great replacement seeing as it was only $160.00 dollars. Easy install. Run the jack plate all the way up. Support the motor. Remove the old motor. There is a coupler between the motor and pump that can get lost so pay attention. Had to take a couple of thousands off the flat sides of the new motor drive to fit the coupler losely like it should. Put back togeather, all done. The hard part for me was running the wires. Had to get a new bulk head fitting that Pathfinder uses.

20180629_155239.jpg

Atlas_Motor_1.jpg

Atlas Motor2.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
On 5/19/2020 at 4:17 PM, jh141 said:

Update on the older steel case Atlas Jack Plate Motors that rust. I ordered one from East Lake Marine Electric. It is a great replacement seeing as it was only $160.00 dollars. Easy install. Run the jack plate all the way up. Support the motor. Remove the old motor. There is a coupler between the motor and pump that can get lost so pay attention. Had to take a couple of thousands off the flat sides of the new motor drive to fit the coupler losely like it should. Put back togeather, all done. The hard part for me was running the wires. Had to get a new bulk head fitting that Pathfinder uses.

20180629_155239.jpg

Atlas_Motor_1.jpg

Atlas Motor2.jpg

a trick that HOBO on the forum taught me is when installing motors etc. in the bilge area is to spray the motor with a a clear coat lacquer to protect it int he salt water environment.

As well, to seal off any potential water entrance by sealing with clear sealant (window) from home cheapo.

DC

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/19/2020 at 1:36 PM, BattleFish said:

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! 

The relays are now $16.71 and 30 minutes of wiring and it works. This is awesome. The relays plug into the relay outlets and are pretty hard to get out of and into the outlets bases. The relay outlets bases connect together and I velcro'd them to my terminal area so I can pull them easily if they do go bad. Saved me $140 plus bucks. If you're ever in Jacksonville, FL I'll buy you a beer. 

Installed in May 2020, still working great. Hundreds of cycles. 

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  • 2 months later...

I have had an intermittent issue with my atlas. The plate will not move up or down from the blinker switch. Then for no reason it works again in both directions. Of corse it will not stop working when I can trouble shoot it. 
 I just ordered the relays. Hopefully I can make it more reliable by taking the sealed relays out of play. 

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  • 1 month later...

I know this may not be a popular post but i could not bring myself to use the relays I ordered. I was not impressed with the fit of the relay to the plug. I could not get them all the way in with out beating on them or squeezing them with channel locks. when i tried to pull the relay out of the plug the cap popped off the relay. Still i moved forward with the change out and realized how many connections i was going to have in the bilge. splitting power and grounds to both relays and such. Just too much when i was not completely satisfied with the relay and the plug. I bought the T&H relay on amazon for 130ish bucks. No i do not have money to burn but in the grand scheme of money spent on boats i am much more comfortable with the sealed box and less connections. The first one lasted 9 to 10 years so I am ok with taking the chance on the sealed relays again. 

 On a side note once i realized that to run the jack plate around the relays,  you have to jump both wires, one to to positive the other to negative  I'm convinced the jack plate operation ,or lack there of, will never keep me from running the boat.  

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4 hours ago, HoneyB said:

I know this may not be a popular post but i could not bring myself to use the relays I ordered. I was not impressed with the fit of the relay to the plug. I could not get them all the way in with out beating on them or squeezing them with channel locks. when i tried to pull the relay out of the plug the cap popped off the relay. Still i moved forward with the change out and realized how many connections i was going to have in the bilge. splitting power and grounds to both relays and such. Just too much when i was not completely satisfied with the relay and the plug. I bought the T&H relay on amazon for 130ish bucks. No i do not have money to burn but in the grand scheme of money spent on boats i am much more comfortable with the sealed box and less connections. The first one lasted 9 to 10 years so I am ok with taking the chance on the sealed relays again. 

 On a side note once i realized that to run the jack plate around the relays,  you have to jump both wires, one to to positive the other to negative  I'm convinced the jack plate operation ,or lack there of, will never keep me from running the boat.  

Hey Man, it's all good.  Do what you feel comfortable with.  I'm not a relay salesman.  I just thought the quality of the Temco relays was superior to the generic ones I found in the TH harness.  I doubt I'll ever have to worry about it again though, as I will probably never buy another jack plate.  But if I do, it will be a Bob's.  B|

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  • 3 months later...
On 8/5/2021 at 9:59 AM, Capt Les said:

Are you both red and white leads together in the alumiconn connectors and coming out with a black ground. It was hard to see in the photo. Great job by the way. Thanks Les

Thank you.  It IS hard to see in the photo, but that is correct.  The alumiconn connectors are just a cool way to make good watertight connections, but all that really matters is that the wire colors/connections match up with the drawing.

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Recently the TH Marine Atlas Micro Jacker on my skiff quit working.  I learned a lot today, thanks mostly to Mike Kilcrease (South Florida Yamaha tech--best marine mechanic I've ever worked with.  DM me if you want his contact information or have questions).  Here's what I learned from Mike and on the web and what we did to get it working again (better than ever since I've had the skiff).
 

  1. Never continue to hold the switch in the up or down position after the jack plate has completed travel in that direction. Doing so can damage the motor pump and could burn out the fuse. Fortunately, this was not the issue.
  2. Always rinse the jack plate off after every use. DO NOT apply any grease as this causes build up of dirt and debris, causing the jack plate to stick or jump (this is what we discovered was the problem with mine). 
  3. There was a great deal of build up so we scraped away and picked out everything that we could, sprayed it with cleaner and then used Dawn Dishwashing liquid and a power washer to finish it up. After allowing it to dry we sprayed it with a silicon based lubricant on the bolt slides. 

The jack plate works better than ever, and I am able to raise it higher than I ever have since I've owned the skiff. I'm going to be more diligent about keeping the bolt slides clean and lubricated. As Bob LeMay says, "aren't boats fun?"!

 

IMG_4837.jpeg

IMG_4839.jpeg

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On 8/7/2021 at 7:14 PM, Big Dave said:

Recently the TH Marine Atlas Micro Jacker on my skiff quit working.

Been hearing good reports and recommendations on this aftermarket kit, that adds strength and rigidity to an Atlas Micro Jacker plate:

https://hullmarineproducts.com/micro-jack-reinforcement

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/atlas-microjack-reinforcement-kits.85540/#post-832129

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/atlas-micro-reinforcement-kit.83361/#post-822439

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  • 2 months later...

The thin blue, green and purple wires are the "switch wires" on my wiring diagram, coming from the switch on your console.  All the wires in the diagram that connect to pins on the relays ARE the colored wires that come from the Temco Socket that you describe.  The heavier red, black, blue, and green wires on your boat are positive and negative from the battery - and the blue and green wires coming from the jack plate.  Hope this helps.

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On 10/16/2021 at 10:31 PM, Pat Ogburn said:

Geeviam. I went and purchased the Temco relays with red,black,white,blue and yellow leads. My epoxy bedded Atlas relays have in various places red, blue, green, black, and purple wires. I am totally confused as to what connects to what and how. Can you help. Thanks. Pat

Pat,

Hull Marine Products is making some aftermarket addons for Atlas jack plates, that are better than OEM.  Here's a post from the Microskiff forum about a new, better quality relay harness at a good price: https://www.microskiff.com/threads/more-jack-plate-problems.94827/post-915125

Here's a link to the company's website: https://hullmarineproducts.com/

PM me if you'd like more help with connecting your boat wiring to your new relays.  Glad to help if you still want to DIY.

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