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Repower opinion


SouthernWake

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Looking to repower my boat, I would be removing a 130 carbed johnson and replacing with a newer used engine.

i am concearned about adding any extra weight and am looking at a four stroke 115 as that seems to be more available in my area. Will I notice any major power difference as I believe the 130 is basically a 115?

Other option is a 140 Suzuki but that is much harder to find used.

I would like to avoid the weight of a larger block 150.

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It’s a 2000 and starting to show it’s age but still has good compression etc.

my biggest complaint is that it is a 25” and I have a 20” transom. I have a jack plate that makes it work but I hate having to go that way and give up my adjustments by always running it all the way up.

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43 minutes ago, SouthernWake said:

It’s a 2000 and starting to show it’s age but still has good compression etc.

my biggest complaint is that it is a 25” and I have a 20” transom. I have a jack plate that makes it work but I hate having to go that way and give up my adjustments by always running it all the way up.

Aw,  That would push me to repower as well.  If your binnacle and cables are in good shape they can be re-used with Etec.  Yamaha makes a nice engine but they are very pricey and you will need to re-rig including gauges. 

The other thing to think about with a NEW repower is how long you plan to keep the boat.  If it is a lifetime boat, go for it.  If you don't plan to keep it long be prepared to lose on the investment.

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5 hours ago, SouthernWake said:

Looking to repower my boat, I would be removing a 130 carbed johnson and replacing with a newer used engine.

i am concearned about adding any extra weight and am looking at a four stroke 115 as that seems to be more available in my area. Will I notice any major power difference as I believe the 130 is basically a 115?

Other option is a 140 Suzuki but that is much harder to find used.

I would like to avoid the weight of a larger block 150.

I just went thru this. My Yamaha 130 went kaput. Search and searched and I wanted either an ETECH or a Suzuki due to the weight of the Yamaha 4 strokes.  I found a very lightly used 2013 Zuke 140 (less than 100hrs and near new condition) and had it put on my Pathfinder. I picked it up last week and ran it for the first time  on Thursday. Very pleased with how it performs. I am now in the process of propping the engine correctly.  The Suzuki 140 is only 394 lbs, which is only about 50lbs difference. I notice no difference in draft height. 

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46 minutes ago, Lap it Up said:

Aw,  That would push me to repower as well.  If your binnacle and cables are in good shape they can be re-used with Etec.  Yamaha makes a nice engine but they are very pricey and you will need to re-rig including gauges. 

The other thing to think about with a NEW repower is how long you plan to keep the boat.  If it is a lifetime boat, go for it.  If you don't plan to keep it long be prepared to lose on the investment.

Thank you, I’m really open to any brand. Not looking new as I don’t see it as a forever boat but don’t have a reason to get rid of it or sell it anytime soon as it is paid off. 

Im thinking something reasonably used in the 08-2015 area unless someone has any other ideas.

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1 hour ago, whichwaysup said:

Have you considered changing out the shaft length?  I had that done on an engine years ago.  Might be the most economical choice.

I like the idea but am worried with all it entails as the upfront cost shouldn’t be bad as it’s a common engine but my concearn lies in the work. 

If I am thinking correctly it would essentially be a powerhead swap which I am worried would add up with broken bolts, machine work etc to still have a 20yr old motor. Or am I overestimating it?

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Should be a relatively easy job.  Easiest way, I think, is to find a gearcase from same model engine that already has the correct length shaft.  I think all you would need after that is new midsection skirt. There are others here more experienced and more mechanically inclined than me, so I will let them chime in. 

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1 hour ago, MuddyBottomBluz said:

  Pull power head and lower unit. Replace shaft & shift rod on lower unit for the 20" mid. Steering arm should come with new mid section, slap it all back together and your good to go! A qualified outboard mechanic can do it in a day or less. 

Where are you located?

This right here or look for a used 20" engine and swap on your powerhead.  OMC (Johnson and Evinrude) made thousands of V4's.  You'll be surprised how old some engines are that still come apart without any issues. 

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2 hours ago, SouthernWake said:

Thank you and I’m in columbia SC

I typically do all my maintenance but am worried this may be over my head.

Having a manual really helps.  Ebay may have it.  Take your time.  Like Muddy said, Use heat and "knocker loose" on any stubborn bolts / nuts.  You will need a powerhead gasket and I would check your top rubber motor mounts while you are in there.  You can use length of chain / bolts and fender washers screwed into the flywheel to lift it off unless you have access to the correct lifting ring.  

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So donor motor is on the stand being dissected. I have what I think are all the bolts off and can see a 1/4 inch of light all the way through between the exhaust housing and the powerhead but can’t get it to drop off. It seems to be held up somewhere near the steering arm.

Any ideas or just go at it with pry bars and a hammer?

 

also if anyone needs and parts from a mid 90s Johnson 150 they are free.

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 The large bolts for the steering arm should not have anything to do with it. I am assuming it is a 60 deg. loop charged motor? Have you pulled the lower unit, there is a shift rod from the lower unit that is bolted to the linkage under the carburetors, small bolt sometimes a pain in the *** to get too, obviously if the lower unit is off then it would not be an issue.   

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 Good job, that is a loop charged motor, they are great motors. Be sure to clean all threads by running a tap down them before putting your power head and lower unit on the mid section. Lap the mid section mating surface for both the power head and lower unit and even the power head so you have nice level mating surfaces. Also do not turn the shift rod on the lower unit, typically they just wrap tape around it and the shaft to prevent it from turning. If it goes out of adjustment it could eat the dogs in the lower unit.

You will be cleaning everything and priming & painting I'm sure, but it will be worth it. Keep us posted.  

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