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How to replace transducer 23 HPS


Sunstone

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Is your present transducer mounted ahead of the step, with access through a hole in the gas tank? If so, it's going to be a real pain the azz, but can be done. I had to make two wrenches, one to hold the transducer and another to spin the large nut. I've heard of guys using braided line to saw through the sealer/putty to separate the sealer from the fiberglass. Someone makes a solvent that dissolves sealers and putty.

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These are the two wrenches I had to make to hold the transducer and tighten the nut. I have them tied together for the pic. The wrench on the left holds the transducer and the wrench on the right tightens the nut. If I remember correctly, it's about 24" from the deck to the hull, then you are working through a hole in the gas tank. It was a real challenge, but I enjoy that sort of torture.

 

DSC05746_zpscb85d795.jpg

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On 9/8/2019 at 8:42 PM, smilemaker said:

I find it hard to believe. I have a switch that I used to use that allowed one transducer to go to different displays.. many of the new machines are set up to allow multiple transducers.  Look at the manual for your machine.

I thought the same thing but this was their electronics guy in Md. 

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Sunstone

Out of curiosity  I did some searching and came across several posts on random forums that all talked about the dangers of switching between  2 transducers. It appears that if a unit is on then you can damage it or the transducer by plugging it in. When you use a switch that is what you are actually doing. Plugging in  one and unplugging the other.

I would look at the back of the unit and see if it has multiple  inputs.

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  • 11 months later...
On 9/8/2019 at 2:45 PM, SCFD rtrd. said:

I ordered my boat without a transducer and  installed a thru-hull transducer in the same spot. Is that what you want to do?

I'm not sure what material they use to bond the shoot-thru to the hull. But, some forum member will have the answer.

This is what I am about to do except I need to remove the current transducer and clean the surface.  figured I would then drill a pilot hole from the inside then use a hole saw coming in from the bottom.  doesnt look easy, but then there would be no fun if it were.....

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Just now, Malbrew said:

This is what I am about to do except I need to remove the current transducer and clean the surface.  figured I would then drill a pilot hole from the inside then use a hole saw coming in from the bottom.  doesnt look easy, but then there would be no fun if it were.....

assuming your transducer was 12 degree tilt?  I was going to wait to see where the hole is before I order the transducer...

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I got in touch with Skip and he advised that the hull in that area was approximately 12 degrees. If you look at the first pic (hull and transducer) you can see that the flange of the transducer is about 1 1/2" to 2" from the center of the keel. This will give you an idea of where the pilot hole needs to be. So, 2 inches from the center of the keel plus half the diameter of the transducer. Transfer this mark to the inside and make your pilot hole. It's going to be pretty close to the center of the hole in the gas tank. If you need the two wrenches I made, let me know and I'll ship them. 

I used an Airmar transducer. They only come in certain tilt angles and they do make a 12 degree tilt.  

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with how everything boating is on backorder I  would  not  cut a hole until the transducer was in my hand.

obviously  12 deg is the way to go

if i was installing the transducer I  would find a hole saw the diameter of the hole in the gas tank. mount it upside down on the mandrel and with the pilot drill of the mandrel make a pilot hole from the inside out. now from the outside you can check your position from the keel and adjust postion but it should be spot on. drill  proper size hole for the transducer from the outside.

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