AntonRx Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 Just picked up a NOCO Gen4 onboard charger. Was curious what others have done. Thinking of installing in console. I currently have 1 starting battery under the console and 1 back in the Rear starboard side. Plan is to have my 2 trolling batteries under the console as well. If I left the battery back in the rear starboard side, id have to extend 1 of the power cables back to it (NOCO comes with only 6’ cables). Should I move the back battery up to under the console with the other one? If so, my battery switch that’s in the rear starboard compartment, would I need to move that too or just keep it there and extend the cables from it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 I would suggest moving all the batteries to the console along with the battery switch. The boat will run better with less weight in the stern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernieNC Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 All my batteries are in the console and the switch is in the stern. I can lock the console but still have unlocked access to the switch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fsu11 Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 I had the same issue, i extended the lead for the charger to be able to charge my battery in the rear starboard hatch on my RF18 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted November 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Fsu11 said: I had the same issue, i extended the lead for the charger to be able to charge my battery in the rear starboard hatch on my RF18 When you extended the line, did you do so on the short dose of the fuse or the longer side? thought about moving the battery as well. If I did that, would it be ok to extend the lines just for the battery back to the switch? I don’t want to move the switch if I don’t have to. thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 Do not extend the lines by simply cutting and adding a longer length, it will void you warranty and you might need it. The warranty will be void if anything has changed on the charger even if you cut and put new ring terminals on. Their way to extend the leads is basically add another ring terminal and bolt them together if I remember correctly. They might have how to do it on there web site if not give them a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted November 20, 2019 Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 7 hours ago, mulligan said: Do not extend the lines by simply cutting and adding a longer length, it will void you warranty and you might need it. The warranty will be void if anything has changed on the charger even if you cut and put new ring terminals on. Their way to extend the leads is basically add another ring terminal and bolt them together if I remember correctly. They might have how to do it on there web site if not give them a call. I have done it as described.... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted November 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 So, bolt the wire extension to their wire with another ring terminal. Do you use shrink tubing over the junction then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted November 20, 2019 Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 The NOCO Genius On-Board Battery Charger # 329-GEN4 does not have the extensions like the NOCO Accessories X-Connect Extension Cable - 10' Long # 329-GC004. If you were to extend the wires from the manufacturer, you would need to so without altering the ring terminals or you would void the manufacturer warranty. The NOCO DC leads can be extended up to 10 additional feet after the inline fuse but not before it. NOCO does not recommend any modifications between the inline fuse and the charger itself. The electrical connections to either the AC input or the DC output of the charger are modified without the express written consent of NOCO. I could not find NOCO's specific instructions on how they want it done, but yes bolt another set of ring terminals on and heat shrink them up good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurricane Posted November 20, 2019 Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 What boat do you have? What areas do you fish? I don't see a need to have 4 batteries, unless you fish the glades, far offshore or consume lots of power. One starting/house and one TM batt wired as the #2 battery, for a total of 3 batts. But in would put all Batts in the console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fsu11 Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 i said screw the warranty and extended the leads. Its ridiculous they made the leads so short to begin with and bolting two ring terminals together sounds like a terrible idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 My power usage on my boat is almost as much as my house when all the kids are home. 36 volt minnkota trolling motor = 3 group 31 Duracell Hds live 12, hds 7, sonic hub 2, jl 600 amp, wet sounds sound bar and 2 live well pumps = house group31 duracell 200hp vmax= group 27 duracell dedicated starting All of this is connected to yandina trollbridge 36 with gauges monitoring everything. As long as I am hopping from spot to spot voltage is not a problem. Several spots often see the 36 volt minnkota running 7+ due to current but it stays put. All batteries are under a 2200 TE console. 2 stacked on top of 2 with cranking battery easy to get to. It may sound like overkill but tides in SC can be a killer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonRx Posted February 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Ok all. Guess I'll be moving my rear battery up under the console. When doing this, all i have to do is run a longer wire to connect to the battery switch for the battery moved, correct? Plan to leave the switch in the back compartment still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeK Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 16 hours ago, AntonRx said: Ok all. Guess I'll be moving my rear battery up under the console. When doing this, all i have to do is run a longer wire to connect to the battery switch for the battery moved, correct? Plan to leave the switch in the back compartment still. You either need a way to disconnect the battery AT the battery in my opinion (protect as much of the wiring after the battery as possible). You can do that by moving the switch or leave the switch where it is and installing an additional breaker/overload near the battery in it's new location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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