quest4reds Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Was searching around the forum for recommended maintenance to keep my boat, motor, trailer, and everything associated with it in top condition, and I found this in the Pathfinder owners section: It's got some fantastic ideas in it for maintaining your sled, but I was thinking as it is over two years old, perhaps there are some more things to add, newer products that work wonders, etc, and I also was thinking this would be a good topic to have in the General forum area and sticky so it's easy to find. I'm not a seasoned boat owner, and I'm not ashamed to ask questions, but you don't know what you don't know right? So lets have it. Please share all your maintenance advice, techniques, favorite products, replacement products, etc. so that newbies like me don't let their investments deteriorate due to lack of knowledge. I'll start with one that is not listed in the attached thread that my brother told me. He puts a small fan under the boat cover so it circulates air around helping to dry everything out and prevent mold and mildew. And something I just did was got tire covers, like the ones they put on RVs sitting at parks to keep the sun from dry rotting the tires quickly, and I use them on the trailer tires and my spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Well, Matt, you have already met my three best friends: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Here are two other friends I have for my trailer. Sharkhide on the aluminum and fluid film for the trailer springs. You will neber replace your springs if you use it consistently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCTribute Posted February 11, 2020 Report Share Posted February 11, 2020 Kind of ironic that the cap to the Sharkhide is all rusty. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 2 hours ago, NCTribute said: Kind of ironic that the cap to the Sharkhide is all rusty. Yeah, kind of like having to wipe spiderwebs off your bug killer can. Things that make you go hmmmmmmm . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dave Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 I might add Salt Away to the list. Make sure everything is sprayed down and rinsed real well. Make sure the engine is flushed after every use in salt water. Don't put the boat away wet --and leave the hatches open. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernWake Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Get out on the water! Boats, trailers, etc have issues when you don't use them. Also remember maintenance is different than repairing. Take care of things before they give you a problem. Listen to your engine on the water, feel your hubs after towing, give everything a thorough visual look over as frequently as possible. The little things that take an extra second can really save you. Also if something is wrong don't put a band aid on it, replace/fix it correctly. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 I could go on and on about repairs and maintenance, but I will speak to one maintenance function that gets overlooked by many. KEEP YOUR BILGE CLEAN! there is nothing like a nice clean bilge. There are many ways to get a nasty bilge clean again (Formula 88, pure bleach) and once you get it clean its simple to maintain. Every time I wash my boat I dump the leftover suds in my clean bilge. I then throw the hose in the bilge, keep the plug in and let the bilge pump run for a while. Pump gets flushed of debris and salt. Bilge stays clean and shiny. When you put the boat away leave all your hatches open and let it breath for a day or so. Tennis balls work well to keep hatches cracked. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest4reds Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 11 hours ago, Lap it Up said: I could go on and on about repairs and maintenance, but I will speak to one maintenance function that gets overlooked by many. KEEP YOUR BILGE CLEAN! there is nothing like a nice clean bilge. There are many ways to get a nasty bilge clean again (Formula 88, pure bleach) and once you get it clean its simple to maintain. Every time I wash my boat I dump the leftover suds in my clean bilge. I then throw the hose in the bilge, keep the plug in and let the bilge pump run for a while. Pump gets flushed of debris and salt. Bilge stays clean and shiny. When you put the boat away leave all your hatches open and let it breath for a day or so. Tennis balls work well to keep hatches cracked. I think I saw something about this somewhere else, fill the bilge with bleach solution or soap and water and drive it around on the trailer turning, stopping, swinging side to side so water agitates and gets to every part of the bilge then drain it. I mean I know pretty much everything there is to know about bilges and stuff, but for the real newbies out there, I am definitely not talking about me, is there anything you need to protect or to avoid, wiring, etc. when doing this? And if one didn't know exactly where to access the bilge in their boat to add the suds and water or bleach, is there a place that is pretty much standard on all boats or does it vary by model? I think that should cover it for now, I have to go buy some tennis balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 17 minutes ago, quest4reds said: I think I saw something about this somewhere else, fill the bilge with bleach solution or soap and water and drive it around on the trailer turning, stopping, swinging side to side so water agitates and gets to every part of the bilge then drain it. I mean I know pretty much everything there is to know about bilges and stuff, but for the real newbies out there, I am definitely not talking about me, is there anything you need to protect or to avoid, wiring, etc. when doing this? And if one didn't know exactly where to access the bilge in their boat to add the suds and water or bleach, is there a place that is pretty much standard on all boats or does it vary by model? I think that should cover it for now, I have to go buy some tennis balls. Empty a bag of ice in there and you’ll have an agitator that goes down the drain in a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Wiring wont be affected as long as your connections and crimps are water tight as they should be. Access to most any bilge is thru the splash well. Adding a bag of ice works. A bottle of bilge cleaner a long with a gallon of bleach and some hose water works wonders as well. Pull the fuse to your float switch and take the boat for a bumpy ride on the trailer. Pump it out when your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdemott Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 On 2/12/2020 at 8:06 AM, Lap it Up said: I could go on and on about repairs and maintenance, but I will speak to one maintenance function that gets overlooked by many. KEEP YOUR BILGE CLEAN! there is nothing like a nice clean bilge. There are many ways to get a nasty bilge clean again (Formula 88, pure bleach) and once you get it clean its simple to maintain. Every time I wash my boat I dump the leftover suds in my clean bilge. I then throw the hose in the bilge, keep the plug in and let the bilge pump run for a while. Pump gets flushed of debris and salt. Bilge stays clean and shiny. When you put the boat away leave all your hatches open and let it breath for a day or so. Tennis balls work well to keep hatches cracked. Works well for those on trailers but if you are on a boat lift in a eco. sensitive marsh not so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest4reds Posted February 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 How about motor and trailer maintenance? I think I heard replacing fuel water separator and impeller annually. Although impeller is kind of a "tell-tale" when it needs replacing or do you replace it whether it's spitting like the day you brought her home once a year without question? Anything in the prop area? Hubs or nuts that need checking/replacing? And trailer maintenance, thorough wash down after immersion in salt, someone even recommended filling a portable spray bottle with a Salt-away solution and hitting the trailer immediately after pulling out of ramp before you go back to your boat so it doesn't sit all day with salt on the brakes. Also, greasing hubs, putting a little di-electric grease on the trailer connection, what else do you do to keep your trailer in good condition and all the lights working? Is it still a thing to unplug the trailer lights before backing into the water or is that a thing of the past with the lights being LED these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 This is what I follow. It may seem over the top and expensive but you will have a good running rig every time and the next owner will love you for it. I'm also a 2 stroke guy but this doesn't very much for 4 strokes. Pump kit, filters, separator, plugs and fluids should be changed yearly or every 100 hours, whichever comes first. I also like to change top driveshaft seals annually. Yamahas are especially notorious for corroding if left unattended. All anodes should be checked annually. Any scale or breakdown found... replace them. All zerc fittings should be greased several times a year. Prop removed and splines greased a couple times a year. Its also a good time to check for line or weeds wrapped on the shaft. I also feel a power head should be scrubbed, washed and silicone sprayed a few times a year (others debate this but you can eat off my 1998 and cleaning it is the reason why). Trim seals and steering seals get checked before every trip. Any signs of leakage warrants replacement. Remote oil tank is topped off before every trip. One quart kept in the boat in case remote stops feeding an you need to fill the main tank under the cowl. All switches cycled on and off before every trip. Bilge pump cycled before every trip. A few squirts to trailer bearings every so often and especially before any long haul. Use a cheap extension cord for trailer light wiring. Non insulated butt connectors and glue filled shrink tubing on all connections. I also run ground to the front. Pipe lights really help with longevity. Any light that doesn't submerge lasts much longer. Springs, tires and torsions should get a visual before every tow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Always bust your lug nuts lose in the driveway, add anti seize and re-torque before making a long trip. I rarely make trips anymore, but check mine every couple of months. I mentioned this to a friend with a brand new boat and he ended up breaking/replacing 5 out of 20 studs before he ever took his boat to the ramp. One of those you're rather not do on the side of the road. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 How often do you guys replace your hubs and axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Any worry about bleach water and the alluminum gas tank since it isnt coated and has salt exposure? Or am I just paranoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 17 hours ago, Shallowminded6 said: How often do you guys replace your hubs and axles? I am curious as well. I just tore my trailer down and replaced everything from the axle outward. I suppose it depends on use, but would think 5 yrs on the outside, assuming you maintain and have average use. 2 yrs if you trailer long distances and/or frequently. After about 2 yrs, I get anxious on long trips and at 35 each for entire hub/bearing assembly, already greased and packed, Its probably worth doing before long trips if you have crossed the 2 yr mark. Unless you dont mind doing it at the most inconvenient, dangerous section of a long trip, in which case, just keep em ready and wait for them to blow . . . Just my guess but curious what others do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest4reds Posted February 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 23 hours ago, BradM said: Always bust your lug nuts lose in the driveway, add anti seize and re-torque before making a long trip. I rarely make trips anymore, but check mine every couple of months. I mentioned this to a friend with a brand new boat and he ended up breaking/replacing 5 out of 20 studs before he ever took his boat to the ramp. One of those you're rather not do on the side of the road. I have to admit I am ashamed I didn't think of this and do it already. I have a 78 F-150 I'm restoring and anti seize is one of my best friends when it comes to replacing any nuts. I'm gonna go home tonight and put some PB blaster on all the nuts, let that soak in for an hour or so, and pull out my favorite toy (cordless impact wrench) to remove and replace all the lugs with anti seize on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Be careful with antiseaze on lugnuts. Only put a dab on the threads. Do not let it get between the edge of the nut and rim. It will effect the torque of the nut. Many a thread on bbc.net about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 49 minutes ago, quest4reds said: I have to admit I am ashamed I didn't think of this and do it already. I have a 78 F-150 I'm restoring and anti seize is one of my best friends when it comes to replacing any nuts. I'm gonna go home tonight and put some PB blaster on all the nuts, let that soak in for an hour or so, and pull out my favorite toy (cordless impact wrench) to remove and replace all the lugs with anti seize on them. I put PB on them before any trip more than a few miles from the house. Helps repel the water if nothing else. But figured if I needed to pull them would make it way easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 1 hour ago, whichwaysup said: I am curious as well. I just tore my trailer down and replaced everything from the axle outward. I suppose it depends on use, but would think 5 yrs on the outside, assuming you maintain and have average use. 2 yrs if you trailer long distances and/or frequently. After about 2 yrs, I get anxious on long trips and at 35 each for entire hub/bearing assembly, already greased and packed, Its probably worth doing before long trips if you have crossed the 2 yr mark. Unless you dont mind doing it at the most inconvenient, dangerous section of a long trip, in which case, just keep em ready and wait for them to blow . . . Just my guess but curious what others do. Was looking at mine last night and started the internal debate. Think I might align with that plan. Seems reasonable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 1 hour ago, smilemaker said: Be careful with antiseaze on lugnuts. Only put a dab on the threads. Do not let it get between the edge of the nut and rim. It will effect the torque of the nut. Many a thread on bbc.net about it. The above should go without saying, but worth pointing out for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 I've said it before, break caliper grease on the threads of your lug nuts. It will not wash away, withstands high temperatures! I had it on one of my rims that blew out, did not think about for 3-4 years, roadside guy said good luck getting those lugs off, and could not believe it when they spun right off after breaking them loose. Get the small can and it comes with an applicator brush, it works! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Ultra-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Lube-8-oz/484443703?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101002903&adid=22222222227306604945&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=380185681362&wl4=pla-811032027499&wl5=9011944&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=136582778&wl11=online&wl12=484443703&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1pzG7Irc5wIVkJOzCh1wBwsXEAQYASABEgIFWfD_BwE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest4reds Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 22 hours ago, quest4reds said: I have to admit I am ashamed I didn't think of this and do it already. I have a 78 F-150 I'm restoring and anti seize is one of my best friends when it comes to replacing any nuts. I'm gonna go home tonight and put some PB blaster on all the nuts, let that soak in for an hour or so, and pull out my favorite toy (cordless impact wrench) to remove and replace all the lugs with anti seize on them. It looks like the PO must have put a little anti seize on the threads, lugs came off easy the studs were spotless. I put a little anti seize on and retightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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