Lenco Trim Tab Actuator Replacement

[koondog]

Any tips on replacing the actuator on the Port side of a 2016 22 TRS.  Of course the one that fails is under the swim ladder and opposite the bilge access.  Any tips on fishing the wire over from the port side would be appreciated! 

[DonV]

Find the wire that feeds the bad actuator towards the middle of the boat and cut there, tie a small, but strong pull string to the old wire as you pull out/remove the old actuator and then tie the new actuator wire to the pull string. splice the old wires together with adhesive heat shrink connectors. May take two people as you feed the new wire through the hole in the transom, don't want it to hang up and break the pull string

[Ron in Atlanta]

On 4/17/2020 at 11:14 AM, koondog said:

a 2016 22 TRS

Just curious, as I have a 2016 2200 TRS as well, how many hours on this vessel?

I assume you also have the silly spring thingie that is supposed to hold the anchor locker lid open (and does, about 50% of the time) and the single ball and socket fitting that is supposed to hold the rear seat backrest down and does, until you are towing or inadvertently step on the rear part of the lid and have it open suddenly nearly causing an ankle twist or fracture?

[koondog]

10 hours ago, Ron in Atlanta said:

Just curious, as I have a 2016 2200 TRS as well, how many hours on this vessel?

I assume you also have the silly spring thingie that is supposed to hold the anchor locker lid open (and does, about 50% of the time) and the single ball and socket fitting that is supposed to hold the rear seat backrest down and does, until you are towing or inadvertently step on the rear part of the lid and have it open suddenly nearly causing an ankle twist or fracture?

I purchased this 2016 about a month ago from a forum member.  It only has 63 hours on it. I’ve put about 10 of those on it. I stepped up from the 2000v just as you did and so far love the boat. Except for my bad actuator. I’m honestly still trying to figure out all the little details of the boat. 

[jim33042]

I replaced one on a skiff recently, that was on the left side.  I found that MBG did an excellent job of securing the original wire to the hull, bad news - it made for a extremely difficult removal.  In trying to remove the clips, I eventually cut the wire.  Tieing a strong pull string is an advisable idea, but the way the clips (odd angles) were secured if I hadn’t removed the clips a tie string wouldn’t have mattered.  (FYI, I have an access plate In the hatch directly in front of the actuator and was able to get most of the attachment clips off via there or using the one if front of the motor, but I’m sure I left some old wire under  the clip(s) I couldn’t reach.) Also, the hole that was made in the hull did not line up perfectly with the Lenco bracket, I had to remove the screws in the hull and  the bracket to get the wire through.  After this was done insertion through the hull was easy.  You may end up needing to do this and then have a wire pull handy to reach inside the hull and grab the new wire.  A little 5200 on the bracket screws on reinsertion and around the hole for the wire and all was good. There are composite pins that attach the actuator to the bracket, a hammer and a screwdriver lightly tapped, made easy removal. Do this before removing bracket from the hull.  I reused the older pins as the new ones included did not fit as snug as the originals. My original wireconnector did not work with the new version, so I just used Inline heat shrink connectors with another heat shrink tube as a second layer of protection.   The new actuator has a 5 yr warranty, unfortunately (for you) the older versions were only 3.  The model number is stamped on the actuator.  I purchased one off of amazon, brand new in box, as it was best price I found. 

[koondog]

7 minutes ago, jim33042 said:

I replaced one on a skiff recently, that was on the left side.  I found that MBG did an excellent job of securing the original wire to the hull, bad news - it made for a extremely difficult removal.  In trying to remove the clips, I eventually cut the wire.  Tieing a strong pull string is an advisable idea, but the way the clips (odd angles) were secured if I hadn’t removed the clips a tie string wouldn’t have mattered.  (FYI, I have an access plate In the hatch directly in front of the actuator and was able to get most of the attachment clips off via there or using the one if front of the motor, but I’m sure I left some old wire under  the clip(s) I couldn’t reach.) Also, the hole that was made in the hull did not line up perfectly with the Lenco bracket, I had to remove the screws in the hull and  the bracket to get the wire through.  After this was done insertion through the hull was easy.  You may end up needing to do this and then have a wire pull handy to reach inside the hull and grab the new wire.  A little 5200 on the bracket screws on reinsertion and around the hole for the wire and all was good. There are composite pins that attach the actuator to the bracket, a hammer and a screwdriver lightly tapped, made easy removal. Do this before removing bracket from the hull.  I reused the older pins as the new ones included did not fit as snug as the originals. My original wireconnector did not work with the new version, so I just used Inline heat shrink connectors with another heat shrink tube as a second layer of protection.   The new actuator has a 5 yr warranty, unfortunately (for you) the older versions were only 3.  The model number is stamped on the actuator.  I purchased one off of amazon, brand new in box, as it was best price I found. 

Thanks for the insight! This is helpful. 

[KNOTNOW]

Ron for your rear seat latch problem look up thread " 2400 TRS rear seat latch" this is what i did to fix the problem you are having. 

[Moderator]

Thank you, Guys !!

Marc