Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a new fuel line on a barbed nipple? My situation is getting a new fuel hose (A1 marine 3/8”) onto the nipple on the tank. There is very little room to work which takes away leverage. I have been able to get the hose all the way to the 3rd indent from the 90 where is needs to go. I tried a little grease and soaking the hose in hot water to no avail. Any suggestions would be welcomed. It was suggested soaking it in gas for a few hours, but worried it would degrade the hose?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Do you have enough room to take the nipple out of the 90*, work the hose onto the barbs on the bench, then reinstall it back onto the 90*? I've used Vasoline on things like that in the past and it has worked well for me. Walk the hose up with a pair of needle nose pliers....Have you left the section of hose out in the sun. Warm water is doing the same thing I suppose, but we all know the sun has magical powers. Hope you're able to get it worked out and soon! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Heat gun or a very carefully and lightly applied flame from a propane torch and silicone (liquid rollers or similar) on the fitting. While you’re there, how old is that anti-siphon valve? May want to replace it... or remove it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 14 minutes ago, jason p said: Heat gun or a very carefully and lightly applied flame from a propane torch and silicone (liquid rollers or similar) on the fitting. While you’re there, how old is that anti-siphon valve? May want to replace it... or remove it. Where is the antisiphon valve? I am replacing the fuel vent as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 6 hours ago, BradM said: Do you have enough room to take the nipple out of the 90*, work the hose onto the barbs on the bench, then reinstall it back onto the 90*? I've used Vasoline on things like that in the past and it has worked well for me. Walk the hose up with a pair of needle nose pliers....Have you left the section of hose out in the sun. Warm water is doing the same thing I suppose, but we all know the sun has magical powers. Hope you're able to get it worked out and soon! Was scared to try and take the nipple out, worried it might break but will keep that as an ace in the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 The “nipple” you’re referring to is the anti-siphon valve. Inside that aluminum valve is a stainless steel spring and ball, the dissimilar metals corrode over time and the ball usually sticks in the closed or almost closed position since its spring loaded closed when there is no vacuum to pull it open. Anti-siphon valves are required by the USCG when the fuel tank outlet is higher than the engines fuel system intake to or fuel lines are routed above the engine fuel system to stop the flow of fuel if a fuel line fails so the bilge doesn’t fill with fuel, they are not required for most outboard powered boats. Page 93 https://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 1 hour ago, jason p said: The “nipple” you’re referring to is the anti-siphon valve. Inside that aluminum valve is a stainless steel spring and ball, the dissimilar metals corrode over time and the ball usually sticks in the closed or almost closed position since its spring loaded closed when there is no vacuum to pull it open. Anti-siphon valves are required by the USCG when the fuel tank outlet is higher than the engines fuel system intake to or fuel lines are routed above the engine fuel system to stop the flow of fuel if a fuel line fails so the bilge doesn’t fill with fuel, they are not required for most outboard powered boats. Page 93 https://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf If it were to get stuck would that stop the engine from getting fuel as well? Is there any disadvantage to not having one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Yes... it’s spring-loaded closed and requires a vacuum from the fuel pump to pull it open. If they corrode or get fuel tank goop in there they may stick closed or partially closed. Usually a collapsed fuel primer bulb is indicative of a closed or partially obstructed anti-siphon valve. As far as a disadvantage I don’t know of any on an outboard powered boat (if there were a safety concern the USCG would require them, that’s my theory anyway) If you were to have a fuel line burst I believe the fuel would run back into the tank since the fuel system inlet, or carburetor as the USCG refers to all marine fuel systems, is well above the fuel tank outlet. Whatever fuel present in the line is going into the bilge regardless if there is a valve or not. it’s your boat and your families safety, do what you think is best. If you decide to run an anti-siphon valve I would replace it with a brass valve or regularly check/clean aluminum valves. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 9 minutes ago, jason p said: Yes... it’s spring-loaded closed and requires a vacuum from the fuel pump to pull it open. If they corrode or get fuel tank goop in there they may stick closed or partially closed. Usually a collapsed fuel primer bulb is indicative of a closed or partially obstructed anti-siphon valve. As far as a disadvantage I don’t know of any on an outboard powered boat (if there were a safety concern the USCG would require them, that’s my theory anyway) If you were to have a fuel line burst I believe the fuel would run back into the tank since the fuel system inlet, or carburetor as the USCG refers to all marine fuel systems, is well above the fuel tank outlet. Whatever fuel present in the line is going into the bilge regardless if there is a valve or not. it’s your boat and your families safety, do what you think is best. If you decide to run an anti-siphon valve I would replace it with a brass valve or regularly check/clean aluminum valves. Makes sense to me as well. Was just curious as it was placed OEM it appears. But I agree with your logic on the application of it. I am leaning towards getting rid of it or atleast the internal components if that is possible. Not really a servicable area of the boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fin-addict Posted July 8, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Jason, hope you were not suggesting open flame while sliding hose onto fitting. 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geeviam Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Post removed - suggestion withdrawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCTribute Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 12 hours ago, jason p said: Yes... it’s spring-loaded closed and requires a vacuum from the fuel pump to pull it open. If they corrode or get fuel tank goop in there they may stick closed or partially closed. Usually a collapsed fuel primer bulb is indicative of a closed or partially obstructed anti-siphon valve. As far as a disadvantage I don’t know of any on an outboard powered boat (if there were a safety concern the USCG would require them, that’s my theory anyway) If you were to have a fuel line burst I believe the fuel would run back into the tank since the fuel system inlet, or carburetor as the USCG refers to all marine fuel systems, is well above the fuel tank outlet. Whatever fuel present in the line is going into the bilge regardless if there is a valve or not. it’s your boat and your families safety, do what you think is best. If you decide to run an anti-siphon valve I would replace it with a brass valve or regularly check/clean aluminum valves. The issue is your fuel lines running to the engine can be lower than the tank fuel level, so if you rub a hole in one of the lines that is in a low spot, you can siphon your fuel tank into the bilge if an anti-siphon valve is not present. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 4 hours ago, fin-addict said: Jason, hope you were not suggesting open flame while sliding hose onto fitting. Definitely not, heat on the hose while a safe distance from any fuel vapors and lube on the fitting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason p Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 31 minutes ago, NCTribute said: The issue is your fuel lines running to the engine can be lower than the tank fuel level, so if you rub a hole in one of lines than is in a low spot, you can siphon your fuel tank into the bilge if an anti-siphon valve is not present. This is true as well, and also the reason I provided the reference so people can read the actual regulation and make the most informed decision about their own safety. I’m not super comfortable with suggesting people remove safety devices without providing some sort of reference. Another reason for the reference. I actually mis spoke on the previous post. It’s not the level of the outlet of the fuel tank but the level of the actual fuel in relation to the carburetor that mandates the use of an anti-siphon device. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Understandable Jason. I was just unfamiliar with the piece was all. Appreciate the info. NCTribute thanks that makes sense never thought of it that was. I always assumed an anti siphon device was to keep people from stealing fuel! Learned allot on this one. I did get the old nipple off and installed a new one. The previous nipple was not anti siphon so must of been changed at some point in the last 20yrs. Dont worry all, I checked to make sure I was far away enough using a lighter long before I used my heat gun so I was safe. Fuel hose is done, on to the fill and vent hoses 😔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerxV6 Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 have you thought about little dish detergent only on the nipple that way it doesn't work its way into the hose and mix with any gas.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallowminded6 Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 15 hours ago, RacerxV6 said: have you thought about little dish detergent only on the nipple that way it doesn't work its way into the hose and mix with any gas.... I ended up pulling the nipple to see if it had an antisiphon valve in it and see the condition. Due to poor condition I replaced it with a new one and the hose wasnt nearly as hard to put on. The vent and fill hose also went on fairly easily. Still have a small bit left to do on the project. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.