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24 TRS and 25 HPS Fish Box Insulation


Racinmullet

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How well do the boxes on either of these work for holding ice and functioning as an actual kill box. Ideally used for holding an offshore catch of bottom fish for the day. Don’t want to have to carry a kill bag or separate cooler. Narrowing in on the next boat and this issue is one of the last hurdles to work through. Looked at both in person and hard to judge on the tap test. Short of showing up at the dealer with bags of ice for an actual test thought I’d reach out here first. 

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They work fine for a day box, use mine on the 25 quite often.  We are limited as to how much insulation we can get around the boxes as they have to fit in the given space.  I have found the trick is to "precool" them, I ice my box the night before and then add more ice in the morning. 

 

Skip   

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1 minute ago, slyshon said:

They work fine for a day box, use mine on the 25 quite often.  We are limited as to how much insulation we can get around the boxes as they have to fit in the given space.  I have found the trick is to "precool" them, I ice my box the night before and then add more ice in the morning. 

 

Skip   

is there a fish box on the 23 HPS anywhere? 

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3 hours ago, Zlenart said:

is there a fish box on the 23 HPS anywhere? 

I tried the aft-port compartment and it worked fine for keeping fish cold. But, it's too hard to clean, especially the top. Was always stinking, so I started using my cooler under the leaning post, much easier to clean.

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I use my center well or port well for a fish box.  They work great.  I just hose them out.  If I use the port well, I have to bail the water out because the drain is in the stern and the boat is pitched forward in my driveway.  

After a hard days fishing, scrubbing a cooler, with a brush and draining it, is not something I look forward to.

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  • 1 month later...

On the 2500 if you fill it with ice it will get you through an entire day. Bare minimum would be about 60 pounds of ice. I put 2-3 of the large (pool chem size) buckets of cubes in my fish box daily and never run out on a day trip. exactly what Skip said. Pre cool it and it does a pretty good job. I have filled mine entirely with ice and gotten 2 days out of it. 

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here's how I manage my 2500 forward fishboxes.

1. I had the drain routed directly through the hull from the factory, no macerator pump, it drains directly out the hull...works great.

2. I used some 3/4" foam floor tile material that I had in the garage and cut it to the shape of each floor box lid, then I used some adhesive silicone to mount it to the underside of each lid.  This acts as additional insulation on the top, which there is none from the factory.  Works well, and definitely extends the cooling capacity of the box.  In addition I also have a fish bag that fits perfectly in there.  Normally I use that on top the ice as an additional layer of insulation to start with.

3. On the bottom of both boxes, I bought some 12x12" Dri-Dek tiles (can buy on amazon). I cut them to fit the shape of the bottom, keeps the ice from sloshing around and beating up the bottom of the box.

3. I use the small box to the left of the fish box to keep my food for the day cool.  I use cooler packs to keep it cold, two Yeti freezer packs in there keeps food cool all day. No fish allowed in this one....

4. On the fishbox side, I bought one of those plastic storage bins that fit the bottom, I had to cut about 2" off around the top of the box (then applied some Gorilla tape to the cut edge on top as the cut plastic can be sharp).  I use this box to keep cut bait or even smaller fish like snapper cold, it will easily hold two 10 lb bags of ice.  If we get into something bigger like mahi or cobia, then I just take the plastic container out and fill the box fish, or put into the fish bag.  This makes it a lot easier to clean if you don't need the whole box for space. 

just some ideas for you...

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I was at Home Depot yesterday and looked for those tiles, I didnt see them.  I had a few from years ago that I had on my garage floor in front of my workbench.  They are about 2'x2' squares that locked together like a puzzle oiece and about 1/2" thick,  fairly dense foam rubber,  Dark grey in color.  They are holding up fine.  As for cleaning, they seem to clean up pretty well, a few stains but not bad, plus you only see them when the lid is open.  I may have bought them at Costco a few years back, not totally sure.  I think any kind of of dense foam type material would work just fine.  Ill try a nd take a picture next time I'm on the boat.

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10-4, I think I know what your talking about, Harbor Freight usually has them as well. I’ve got to re-caulk around the forward edge, underside of my box as well, there’s a couple gaps where the box is bonded (hopefully it’s bonded with something) to the underside of the deck. I’m starting to think this whole boat is held together with caulking. 

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Yea, I forgot to mention that as well.  When I got the boat, I noticed some gaps between the epoxy and the box/cap.  Instead of using caulk or silicone, I bought a roll of that FlexSeal tape.  It actually works really well.  I taped around the entire top of the fish box where it meets the top cap with it.  Easier and cleaner than caulk and its held up great.  Now the fish box is totall sealed at the top and all of the water, blood and crap drains out the drain and cannot get into the bilge.   Gorilla Glue also makes a seal tape.  Both are effective, just know that once you apply it the stuff sticks and is almost impossible to pull off.  But its tough and I think will last for years.

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