Double Play Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 I have a 2000 Hewes Bonefisher and have an issue. Everything was fine until the weekend when I now have no power to any of the switches on the panel. Boat starts fine - bilge pump works (directly wired to battery) and the main 30 amp in line fuse going to the fuse panel is intact. Electrical not my strong point, but am learning. Any suggestions on my next step would be appreciated. I have good power at the rear bus and connections are clean, tight and appear to be in good condition. If one of the switches on the panel has gone bad, would that keep any of the switches from getting power? Thanks in advance for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernWake Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 Look at where your power comes into your switch panel. take a wire and bridge you panel back to a good 12v source to bypass and test different components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 All you need is a simple 12 volt light up tester. Make sure you have a good ground then check for power coming to the back of the switch. You can follow the power to watch connection and then in and out of each switch. Easy peasy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 If the entire bus is dead, probably have a loose ground connection to the bus. the two posts above are right on, time to trace the wiring....check your connections at the battery to the bus and the bus itself. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim33042 Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Had same issue, motor ran fine but All console power and tabs were dead. My fix was the main negative battery Cable connection at the battery. Corrosion and wear ate the inside cable, right at the spot where the cable and end of battery connector (crimp) was. There were two wires coming in at that crimp. I had to remove an inch or so of the cable till I got back to good copper wire, then had new connector installed with a (hand held) Hydraulic crimper. My system did not originally have a main breaker to fuse block. If the battery connection isn’t the fix, the next suggestion to me was to run new wiring from battery to fuse block under console. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 7 hours ago, jim33042 said: If the battery connection isn’t the fix, the next suggestion to me was to run new wiring from battery to fuse block under console. Good next steps....life in the chase for the wiring is not a nice place....wet, dark, lots of places to nick the plastic covering...all lead to problems and corrosion....I had found a similar problem on my 1998 Pathy 17 T, I just ripped out all the under deck wiring and laid new.... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Play Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Thanks to all, The issue was a loose connection to the fuse panel. The crimp on the ring terminal had worked loose over time. The wire was still inserted in the heat shrink, but had worked out and was not making a connection. Thanks for the assistance from the forum team! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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