22TRS w/ SHO overheat issues

[Waterman18]

I’ve ordered a new 22 TRS with 200 SHO and I’ve read some concerning post in various sites about the boats/motors coming out with overheating issues while running jacked up even a little. My previous pf was an 08 22TE with a 250 sho and 3 blade pt  ofx and I had no issues at all, could jack that thing up and turn 5800 and 54 mph. There’s a post here now about a guy who has a brand new one overheating at lower rpms and this FB post:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1226804427344975/permalink/4754057954619587/

Anyone have a newer TRS 22 and having any trouble?

Id hate to pay 5k for the motor upgrade and then not get the most out of it!

[HoneyB]

I have a 2200 trs.. the boat has a 20” SHO mounted on a 6 inch atlas jack plate mounted to 4” setback angle. I can run my jack plate on 4 inches up as long as I’d like. Anything above that and it will over heat. 
 Height is not might when it comes to speed though. I thought when I got my boat the higher I jacked it up the faster it would go. UHH NO! Just causes prop slip and high RPM. Setting it about 2 inches and trimming the motor out seems to be the key to mph. 

[jh141]

Have the same sled as HoneyB. X2 on everything he said. I can run my jack plate full up with no cavitation problems while running. It will get hot and go into limp mode in about 30 seconds. It will run all day at 4" but The only reason I would ever have my jack plate above 3" would be if I was idling shallow and needed a little more clearance insurance. My boat is fastest and preforms best @ 1.5" to 2". I looked at some of that Facebook thread. Never seen any of that. Makes me wonder if the boat he is referring to is factory rigged. MBG has been putting Atlas Jack plates and 20" SHOs on 2200s for a long time now. Mine is a 2012 I bought new. The combination works very well. You will not be disappointed.

[Waterman18]

Thanks for the feedback......I had pretty much the same experience with the 250 sho, higher was not really better ...got more speed mostly from trim. 
 

JH.....what prop are you running?

What props have you tried also?

[jh141]

I currently run a Bravo 1 fs. I also have a flashed ECU so things have changed.

Before the upgrade: I started with an Yamaha HS4 21. It was a little to much for my 200. I was sold on a PT OFX4 18 with 3/8 ports. Was ok but no better than the HS4. In less than three months That prop developed a 1" crack in the middle one of the blades and Power Tech told me ( and their dealer that was helping me ) to pound sand so I had F & J weld up the vents to test and it was a little better but because of the crack I had to retire it. Will NOT buy another Power Tech. I do not think the OFX blade design is a good match. I also ran a FXP Turbo 3 blade. Good prop. That is now my back up.

If I had to start over with a 200 SHO I would run an HS4 if I get find one. 

HoneyB had good success with other Mercury props I think when he had an OEM 200 sho. Maybe he could chime in.

 

 

[Bamaskeet]

If you are going to run skinny a lot, I suggest you install a water pressure gauge so you know exactly if your motor is getting water flow.

[smilemaker]

 would  not have a  jack plate without a  water  pressure  gauge. even with low water pickup you need to  keep  an eye on the gauge.  

[Waterman18]

s a WP gauge standard with a new PF with Yamaha system?

If not costs to add one?

[jh141]

It is an option for SHO. Just a digital sensor add on that is then read on the command link gauges. I added it to mine. The SHO will Alarm and then go onto limp mode and drop the rpm if it senses a critical overheat, so the WP sensor is not necessary just convenient.

[smilemaker]

regardless if it is digital or analog you have to realize that an outboard motor is not like a car. It is an open loop not a closed loop with a radiator. the pressure gauge lets you know that you have water in the system and how much.  relying on an overheat alarm is waiting too long to know you have a problem.  running a jackplate up is pushing your need for information before the problem arrives.  you  may be limping home with a broken leg and not a sore muscle if you don't see it coming.

[jh141]

2 hours ago, smilemaker said:

regardless if it is digital or analog you have to realize that an outboard motor is not like a car. It is an open loop not a closed loop with a radiator. the pressure gauge lets you know that you have water in the system and how much.  relying on an overheat alarm is waiting too long to know you have a problem.  running a jackplate up is pushing your need for information before the problem arrives.  you  may be limping home with a broken leg and not a sore muscle if you don't see it coming.

If this conversion is still about new Yamaha 4.2L four strokes.....Old school thinking. Technology is way past that. These new four stroke motors (Yamaha SHO and they come factory with low water pick up)  will stop you from overheating way before you do any damage. The water pressure gauge on (digital) the new Yamaha four strokes is not very helpful. I have one, it is NOT as useful as the manual gauges of days past. My two stroke skiffs back in the day had three gauges, RPM, Water Pressure and Fuel. Back then if I did not pay close attention to my WP I was likely to kill my two stroke. This is no longer the case. Not saying you do not have to pay attention, if you don't pay attention it could cost you......

The Yamaha 4.2 L cooling system is low pressure, high volume. Check out the pressure specs on these motors, they are half what the two strokes used to be. Hard to see changes on the gauge, thank goodness Yamaha saw fit to monitor the water temp so closely and in a way that the computer will first give you an audible and visual alarm then shut you down (Limp Mode) if you do not heed the warning.    "Love technology when it works, Hate it when it don't"

[TerryS]

Overheat alarm  Just shut it off and restart it on your way  no damage . 250 sho 22 trs  , of4 19 , 59 mph , 6000 trimmed out , zero regrets  hole shot hold on!