Fort Myers Steve Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 delete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 Start at the point where you do not have power. I prefer a simple 12 volt test light trouble shooting 12 volt stuff around the boat. If you have a removable all round light your problem is likely in the connector. The other little interior lights could be on a switch together. Likely not with the nav lights at all.. again 12 volt test light is your friend. Stretch a wire to the battery ground for the test light. You should find your issue very guckly if you check the in and out of each connection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 The breaker on my 2012 TRS have had some problems. Had to replace a few of them. Connect your multi meter neg to the negative bus bar in the console and check for pos on the breakers. Like HoneyB says a 12 volt test light is easier if you have one. Also knowing the year of your boat helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang190 Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 probably the switches. Pull out a switch on a circuit that is not working, use a jumper wire to bypass the switch. See if lights come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2200TRS Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 I agree its probably the switches. I have a 2016 2200 and had to replace all of them. The ones with the plastic toggle and blue lights at the end don't last. I happen to live near the manufacturer Pathfinder used at the time (Ultrapanel Marine) and they told me the switches are no good. They recommended going to all metal switches with plastic weather boots so I changed them all out. Zero issues since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fort Myers Steve Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 On 8/25/2020 at 6:47 PM, jh141 said: The breaker on my 2012 TRS have had some problems. Had to replace a few of them. Connect your multi meter neg to the negative bus bar in the console and check for pos on the breakers. Like HoneyB says a 12 volt test light is easier if you have one. Also knowing the year of your boat helps. On 8/25/2020 at 6:47 PM, jh141 said: The breaker on my 2012 TRS have had some problems. Had to replace a few of them. Connect your multi meter neg to the negative bus bar in the console and check for pos on the breakers. Like HoneyB says a 12 volt test light is easier if you have one. Also knowing the year of your boat helps. 2018. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 That's pretty new for problems. MBG changed the panel style but not sure when. Because you have two items not working it is logical that the power loss is just down stream from those two switches, Anchor\Nav and Cockpit LTS. If your panel has Carling Switchs with the blue tips that light up there could be two side by side bad.I have had to replace most of mine. Does the Live well light work. That would be the next in line. You just have to check each switch down the line for power to find the break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted August 29, 2020 Report Share Posted August 29, 2020 I got tired to replacing switches and developed a solution. The drawing below depicts a typical switch with two zip-ties ( red marks) around the body of the switch. Almost every switch on my 2013 has been repaired in this manor. You can do this without removing the switch, but may require a small pair of needle nose pliers. Just make sure your battery switch is in the off position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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