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Advice From All the Marine Electricians Out There


Big Dave

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Electrical System for 18’ Flats Skiff

Current Setup

TM Batteries:  2 Odyssey PC1100 AGM, using parallel connection method

House:  Constant Power Lithium 12 volt 100 Ah LiFePO4 Deep Cycle

TM:  12 volt, 55 lb. Minn Kota Terrova

Battery Selector Switch:  Blue Sea Systems M-Series Mini Selector Battery Switch (4 position selector:  Off, 1, 2, Both)

Onboard Charger:  ProMariner ProSport 12 Dual Bank

MFD:  Simrad NSS9 evo3S (yellow power control wire connected to the house battery)

My understanding is that by connecting the two 12 volt TM batteries in parallel fashion I get the same voltage (12) but the overall amperage of both batteries is added together—this should supply more trolling motor run time, but less power than a 24 volt system.

Questions:

  1. Is this the optimal configuration for my skiff?
  2. Should the Battery Selector Switch be turned to “Both” when operating the trolling motor periodically during the day?   Leave it on “Both” after stowing the TM and getting underway?  While the boat is underway, all three batteries will be charging?
  3. Is there any downside to having the yellow power control wire for the Simrad connected directly to the house battery?
  4. Any issues “mixing” the batteries (AGM and Lithium)?
  5. The Charger will charge all three batteries when it is plugged in to power in the garage?   
  6. Any other considerations I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance!

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  1. Is there any downside to having the yellow power control wire for the Simrad connected directly to the house battery? make sure there is an inline fuse, other than a potential battery drain not running through a switch it should be fine.
  2. Any issues “mixing” the batteries (AGM and Lithium)? I believe the charging is different between AGM and Lithium and I would not mix the charging aspect. The output "should" be fine.
  3. Any other considerations I should be aware of?  if carrying the weight of 2 trolling batteries why not jump up to a 24v motor with more power? battery life will likely be similar.

 

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2 hours ago, SouthernWake said:
  1. Any other considerations I should be aware of?  if carrying the weight of 2 trolling batteries why not jump up to a 24v motor with more power? battery life will likely be similar.

 

Ditto...I would definately go with a 24V....80 lbs would rocket your little skiff....you could waterski off the stern :)

3 hours ago, Big Dave said:

MFD:  Simrad NSS9 evo3S (yellow power control wire connected to the house battery)

 

I would go to one of the 12V trolling motor batteries....this way, no way to loose your SIMRAD in the event of a low power warning on the start when it's running the cranking amps....I had this past trip and it's a PIA to reset the GPS and then you have to check the last trip distance.

 

It's easy to do...just a pos and neg on one battery with in inline fuse.

 

 

dc

 

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if  I had an 100amp 12 v  lithium battery it would be on the 12v  trolling motor. the lithium can be run down real low and will always give 12 v to the end.

take the 2 agm keep in parallel full time 12v house. connect to 3way switch with cranking battery for back up starting. 

for charging on the go go with 12v trollbridge or stealth .   no need to worry about lithium on the go.

at home use 3 bank charger for 3  agm  I did not see cranking and a seperate charger for the lithium.

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The downside of the yellow wire of the Simrad being connected is that anytime the main power switch is on the unit is running, you have no way to turn it off and have other electrical circuits on. If your boat is on a trailer and you leave main power switch on for some reason (like flushing the engine), or just forget to turn it off, it can damage the transducer due to overheating. 

For larger boats that are kept in the water and may have a separate power switch to turn on auxiliary electronics it makes sense, but on a flats skiff it does not.

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very few situations call for the yellow wire as it will keep the unit turned on when it has power and thus bypass the on  off switch on the unit. cut it and tape the end. 

David G 

    not quite following your setup but usually the 3 way switch is used to determine what goes to the motor for cranking. What is your cranking battery. 

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