Staining gelcoat

[dotschaser]

Looking for some info.  I have a 24' pathfinder 14' model.  Over the last few years when boat comes out of water there is becoming significant staining / yellowing on the gelcoat.  Boat color is oyster white.  I use the stain remover and comes right off, put a coat of wax and the boat looks brand new again.  Last several years seems like my wax is not holding as well any longer.  Have used Hull brite, woodies and now have tried F11 on it, nothing seems to hold up even after a single day on water.  Boat is kept under garage when not in use.  Can't imagine I have to use stain remover each time I take boat out of water.  Anyone have any experience on this?

[jh141]

I think you need to use a buffing compound and then wax.  I have the ShurHold stuff. I use their Buff Magic compound and their orange pad to get rid of the brown stain then I use their Pro Wax to keep it clean.  I am NOT pushing ShurHold, that is just what I have. I am Sure any of the 3m buff compounds and waxes would give the same result. I do not use the quick result sprays or chemicals.  This is just how I keep the Brown water of WWB from staining my Oyster white 2200 TRS. 

[ASB]

The gel coat pores have opened up. You need a compound then sealed. I like Jescar. Seems to last for 3 months of heaven use.

[fishmanjj]

I have tried different cleaners, polishes and waxes....my 2200 is a 2009  year model and In South Georgia we have Ogeechee, Savannah, Altamaha rivers and they all have tannic acid coming out to ocean on outgoing tides...it’s very hard to not have tannic stains in these waters....even after a good clean, seal, wax....after about three trips, the stains are back. I use a plumbing product called “ Iron Out”...it’s a powder you mix with water in a pump up sprayer and just spray and rinse. It gets the hull very clean and also unfortunately  removes all the wax. So, the process starts over. 

i’m open to any advice or products to help with this. 

[scottsflyshop]

I have the tanic water issue and my boat stays on a lift.  So, it's a constant battle.   I try to get after it right when it comes out of the water and use a soft blue brush.  It seems to help not scrub the wax off.  Once the wax is off through a cleaner or stiff brush, the stains are inevitable, rinse and repeat (no pun).

[smilemaker]

When you live in Myrtle Beach you learn to ignore it and go fishing or spend  the weekend  waxing. 

Maybe  once a year just so you can say you did it.

[dotschaser]

Yep.  Assumed this may be the case. It sounds like just nature of the beast.  Thks for the input and suggestions 

[MikeH]

I just spent way too much time researching how to detail a boat. You need the right tools and product. And time. And sweat! Now I understand why the professionals charge as much as they do. I recommend a good starting place to learn is to go on YouTube and search for Drake's boat detailing. He has about 25 videos on YouTube explaining exactly what he uses to detail boats ranging from MBG type boats to 65' Vikings.  He is in Pensacola. Here is the short story. To start, wash the boat with Dawn dishwashing soap, which will remove all your wax. Then use Goof-Off Rust-Aid, which you can buy by the gallon for about $9.00 at Lowes, to remove your rust/tannin stains. I placed a gallon in a 2 gallon pressurized garden sprayer. If your boat is relatively clean, I would say one gallon is enough for a 21' - 22' boat. I did 2 applications on my 21' Maverick. I used a total of 2 gallons. Spray it on, let it sit for a couple minutes, then rinse it off. That easy! Protect your trailer, though. Then you need a rotary buffer (Makita or DeWalt are good ones) with a wool pad, to do your heavy cutting compounding. And although I was skeptical at first, I now agree that trying to do a heavy cut compounding on gelcoat with a dual action vs. a rotary buffer just doesn't do the job. Use Starke Elevate R heavy cut compound, followed by Menzerna 400 heavy cut compound (although on gelcoat it acts as a medium cut)  using a dual action device like a Griots or DeWalt with an orange foam Lake Country CCS cutting pad. Then use the same dual action device with a white foam Lake Country polishing pad to apply a polymer sealant like Jescar PowerLock Plus. I also did all the above steps on my deck and cockpit, followed by an application of Nautical One Non-Skid Sealer and Protectant - spray on and rub off with a microfiber towel. After each use wash with Orpine or Nautical One Ceramic Wash and Wax. Just be sure not to wash your boat with anything like Dawn, which will remove all the wax and/or sealer you just applied. Then spray the deck/cockpit again with the Nautical One Non-Skid Sealer and Protectant. Also, after washing the boat, spray the hull with Nautical One Hydro Rinse Si02 Coating. My boat is a 2008 and had not seen a thorough detailing in years. Half way through this multi-day project I was thinking I should have just paid someone to do it. However, the boat now looks brand new. Absolutely great. Everyone has their own preferences on brands of products. I had not even heard of Elevate, Menzerna, or Nautical One prior to a few weeks ago. They say a good polymer sealant will last 4 - 6 months. Waxes will last significantly less. The deck is more slippery than it was, but what "it was" was extremely chalky! I just spent 2 1/2 days at the MBG Owners Tournament in Southwest Florida at Tarpon Lodge on Pine Island. I did not slip one time. My wife and I stayed at Cabbage Key for a couple nights and kept the boat in the water. I had no tannin stains at all after pulling the boat out. I was really impressed. And now my boat really does look like the original Oystter White gelcoat! And by the way, I used to have the same problem you describe with the reoccurring tannin/rust on the hull. I would clean it off with a rust remover, but without all the steps above it would return soon after I used the boat again.  I hope this helps.

[jh141]

That is an Awesome Explanation!!   Thank You Mike!!