fin-addict Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 Tired of replacing TM plugs every few years due to breaking and corrosion. Have used many brands. My plug is located in the anchor locker hanging from a hook so easy to reach and connect them when needed. Thinking of hardwiring and removing plugs. Only problem, if needed to remove would have to cut splice via butt connectors then have to redo. Thinking of and read to use ring connectors to each wire and bolt each set together + to +, - to - so removable of TM is easy. Seems bronze is better to use than SS. Thoughts on this. Ok, don’t shoot me, in doing the above will also be adding a 60 amp circuit breaker in the console close to the batteries for protection and a on-off switch when not in use. YES, I know that should have been done when the TM was orig mounted by whoever did it. Not ME. Been putting this off way to long. I’ve been lucky having no issues such as 🔥. Fin 😀👍🙏🇺🇸⚓️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 Sounds Like you need a complete redo. This is the description of a Great set up. Black # 6 AWG from TM Battery Negative to a Battery Tender TM Receptacle mounted in the anchor locker. Orange, Yellow or Red # 6 AWG from the TM battery Positive to a 50 amp breaker mounted close to the TM battery and easy to get to. Same size and color # 6 AWG from the breaker to the Battery Tender TM Receptacle mounted in the anchor locker. Male side of Battery Tender TM PLUG connected to the Trolling Motor. Will last for a very long time. I just redid mine because of a not so smart job done when I bought my boat new in 2012. It had a wire size reduction built into it I did not like. With the Battery Tender you can connect # 6 AWG directly to the Plug with Ring terminals. Least current lose and nearly bullet proof. Marinco now makes a 70 plug that is very stout also. I have never installed one but they say it is compatible #6 and #8 AWG. If you need I can get you pictures ansd a supply list and I I ordered everything from Pacer. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 As JH stated above, especially the Battery tender plug. I started using one 5 or so years ago and stopped replacing plugs every 8-12 months right then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 A couple of comments: Our Maverick was wired by Ft Myers Marine and they mounted two studs with wing nuts on a piece of starboard in the forward compartment. Each stud was a different size so you couldn't miss wire the TM. The TM wiring had ring connectors of different size on each end so you could only hook it up correctly. Wiring passes through the deck in a cable gland that you can dissemble if you need to. I added rubber boots to cover the studs in the forward compartment so you couldn't short out the studs. I have had this boat since 2017 and never had an issue. I think this set up is slick as snot on a doorknob. I know many have had issues with the Marineco TM connectors but I have never had a failure through 3 pathfinders and 15 years. I fill the female socket with waterproof grease, then stick in the plug and clean up what oozes out. The plug and the socket each get a coat of silicone sealer where the wires go through the caps. Good luck with your project! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarpon toad Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 I just put a power pux on my redfisher. No plugs, all the wiring is integrated into the breakaway starboard trolling motor mount. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted July 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 Thanks for the info but no need for the Battery Tender connector. Don’t remove the TM as others do. No need to spend $100.+ when a dollar or two can do the job like Headhunter. Circuit breaker is going in 😀👍⚓️ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaco2 Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 i have used marinco with no issues for about ten years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dave Posted July 19, 2021 Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 Going forward, I would not use anything other than the PowerPux system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted July 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2021 48 minutes ago, Big Dave said: Going forward, I would not use anything other than the PowerPux system. Very interesting set up. Never knew of it. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Just watched the powerpux video. In reality it is just another plug. The connection on the mounted plate is going to be susceptible to corrosion as any other plug when exposed without the tm on. All connections are susceptible when apart thus the ease of maintenance in relationship to convenience is the important thing. Studs with eye fittings are easy to clean but more trouble to disconnect. The battery tender has a good amount of surface area and is probably the better trade off from my experience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh141 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 The Power Pux.....Not a bad ideal, Kind of expensive. I think it better serves the Skiff community. Would not work for me, No NEMA connection!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE OUTLAW Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Big Dave said: Going forward, I would not use anything other than the PowerPux system. Ya ! 🙄 🇺🇸🏴☠️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waterman18 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 New TRS came with this new Marinco plug/receptacle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplec Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Your stud idea will work but at the least I think a 2 term buss bar as Headhunter described. I never remove mine as a practice either but there is darn sure a Batt Tender plug in the anchor locker if I need to. Just the aggravation to unbolt them when they die would do it for me. My Ulterras died about 3 times each and my current motor had to go in shop too. Come to think of it I never had a troller that hasn't died. Granted they log hundred of hours....then there was the time the Ulterra head caught on fire in the housing and I was mighty glad I had a plug disconnect handy since it never tripped the breaker.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Use Anderson sb50 connectors. Been using them for years on my trolling motor as an inline connector, hanging in the anchor locker. Zero issues. Dirt cheap and bulletproof high amp connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthree3 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Mated pair on Anderson connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh B Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 If you're rarely removing the motor I think HeadHunter's idea of the stud posts should be sufficient, just make sure to keep them clean and spray them with some silicone/corrosionX when you do your regular maintenance. If you are removing it often I have had success with the Battery Tender as well, but you still need to make sure it stays dry and clean it regularly. I did see that MinnKota finally came out with a good lucking plug, but it's not cheap. I haven't tried it yet, but looks nice as it screws down tight to keep a water resistant connection. Josh B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 I never remove my TM unless it needs service. I bought a Bay boat in 2000 and soldered the trolling motor wires to the battery wires. I had that boat for 13 years and only had to remove the TM about twice for service. In 2013, I bought a new 23-HPS and again soldered the TM wires to the battery wires. Had to remove it one time for service. As long as you use two layers of heat-shrink to encapsulate the solder joint and keep the wires tied up tight to the bottom of the deck, you couldn't get a better connection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 With all of the discussion I thought I would post a picture. I pulled the caps off so you can see how the wing nuts were color coded. The studa are also differnt diameters that match the size of the ring connector. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lap it Up Posted July 22, 2021 Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 15 hours ago, Headhunter said: With all of the discussion I thought I would post a picture. I pulled the caps off so you can see how the wing nuts were color coded. The studa are also differnt diameters that match the size of the ring connector. This is what i do except i use SS lock washers and nuts. I have never lost connection, wires hot, etc. Works perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted July 22, 2021 Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 I've been using the battery tender for 5 years or so....just keep it clean, spray it down with corrosion block every couple of months. dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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