Bknight Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Thought someone might know and offer help. I am DIY replacing bearings and driver side went fine. P***enger side the castle nut was very tight and difficult to losen. I changed the bearings and races as usually done, but in re***embly I find that the castle nut bottoms out on the threads of the axel ( which was why it was difficult to losen the first time), but the wheel rotates freely, too freely, and with a bit of slop. How do I get it to tighten a bit. Can I put a shim on behind the hub? Is there something I should do otherwise? Where to get a shim/washer? IDK how this came about in the first place. Trailer is magic trails built by Magic Tilt and is under a Glll aluminum boat. Asking here because my other boat is a Pathy and you guys know your stuff about helping out. Thanks for looking and you help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trf97 Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 There should have been a shim that goes on before the castle nut. I think I accidentally threw one away one time and went to a place that sold trailers and they had a new washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 The washer is in place, so that isn't the case here. I am wondering if I need a shim/washer on the axel shaft behind the hub or another one under the castle nut. There was evidence of grease coming out from the seal on the back side of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 The washer is in place, so that isn't the case here. I am wondering if I need a shim/washer on the axel shaft behind the hub or another one under the castle nut. There was evidence of grease coming out from the seal on the back side of the hub. If you have grease coming out the backside...time to replace the seals or get a new hub. I'm of the replace it all theory.... For $50, all you need to do is get the right part number and slap on a new one... For the problems you can encounter on the road, it's not worth the problems.. Replacing a seal is possible; however, for me, I just change out hte etire hub ***embly in 10 min and i'm done... dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 It was in replacing the races and bearings and seal that I discovered that the nut was not puting any pressure on the whell to slow it or stop it and that when the Castle nut was tightened down the wheel still turned freely and with a bit of looseness and wobble. the nut is supposed to tighten down and then you back it off until it has the right amt of stiffness and no wobble but turns freely. I cannot get there from here. You might be right in that the whole hub needs to be replaced, or the axel!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Add to my last post that when I first tried to remove the castle nut it was put on before very tightly and I had to use a good deal of force just to get the nut loose, but the whell turned freely and with slop or wobble.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCTribute Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Is the washer bottoming out on the shoulder? Wonder if someone lost the original washer and replaced with one that has too small of an ID? If this is the case then a larger washer id should give you the adjustment you need. Maybe compare the washer to one of the washers on another spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Is the washer bottoming out on the shoulder? Wonder if someone lost the original washer and replaced with one that has too small of an ID? If this is the case then a larger washer id should give you the adjustment you need. Maybe compare the washer to one of the washers on another spindle. I agree, I would take the hub off the good side and carefully measure the length of the shaft from the shoulder to the threads and measure the bearing stack up in the hub, if everything measures the same, then I would have confidence that all I need to do is add a washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Up date:I picked up a washer with a 1" I.D. hole and tried placing beehind the hub. That did not work, so then I tried it under the smaller diameter washer and that gave me a little pressure on the bearing and the castle nut snugged it up like it should have , and did on the other side. I am cautiously optomistic that it is now ship shape. I really do not think the axel shaft was threaded to the right length. There was evidence on the castle nut that someone had to use a cold chisel and hammer to remove the nut before. I'll be watching closely for trouble but I think I'm fixed. Thank you to everyone who tried to help. You are good folks who will take the time to help another. My gratitude to all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulligan Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 I'll be watching closely for trouble Keep a close eye for any grease coming out. I am not saying it will not work but putting a washer behind the hub may hinder the ability of the seal to do its job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Thanks Mulligan but please re read my last post. It would not fit behind the hub so I put it in the other side under the spacing washer and it gave me enough threads on the axel to properly adjust the bearings and do away with the wobbling or slop of extra movement of the wheel. I'm pretty sure It will be fine there, but I will be checking frequently. Next step would be to measure carefully as a new hud ***embly may not fix things if the axel is not right. Thanks to all again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 I think you are on the right track, sounds like they didn't thread the spindles enough. Adding washers to the back of the hub is not the right thing to do. If you look at the spindle it has two steps or shoulders. The races or cones in the hub should bottom out on those shoulders and the rear seal should ride fully on the inside shoulder of the spindle. You can add as many washers as necessary to the outside, as long as you can get the cotter-pin through the castle nut and spindle. When you tighten the castle nut, tighten it until the wheel will not spin, then slowly back-off on the nut until the wheel starts to turn freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bknight Posted March 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks , that is what I did. I appreciate the great folks here> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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