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rubble

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Made it to FL to do a little fishing before bringing the boat back to KY.  Notice the speakers all sounded horrible.  They are Clarion boat speakers that have been in the boat for about 14 years.  Not sure if they have just made it thru their serviceable life or if being stored outdoors and exposed to the weather could have caused some issues?  Thoughts?  Recommended replacement speakers?  

One thing I haven’t done yet is check all of the connections.  Used butt connectors which could have some corrosion.

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Found an old thread talking about replacement speakers.  Looks like the 7.7" JL Audios are popular.  Is that the best bang for the buck?  My current speakers are 6.5".  Is there that big of a difference in sound going to 7.7"?  I'll likely only be cranking the sound while running.  While fishing radio is either off or down low enough to be able to hear it.  

Going to also possibly replace the Head Unit.  Currently have Clarion CMD-4.  May go back with something that fits the same footprint.  Wouldn't mind going back with a Clarion product but is there something else out there worth jumping on?  I could also possibly use one of those smaller head units and find something to fill the void of the old unit.  

Would an amplifier be necessary?

My original system was purchased from Hobo who walked me through the install.  Wanted to do some business with a forum member who had provide outstanding contributions to the group.  He helped me and so many either directly or indirectly with his guidance.

1.  Recommended speakers for replacement?

2. Recommended head unit replacement?

3. Is amp necessary? 

 

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2 hours ago, Lap it Up said:

JL Audio is pricey but they are worth.  I will say, you have to provide ample amperage to them no matter the head unit.  

Is the amp a deal breaker?  Looks like the JL Audio amps are pricey as well.  Is it possible to find something decent to push the speakers at a better price point?

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Hey Rubble

I recently replaced my head unit with the Sony DSX-M80. It has a built in amp and was the most powerful unit I could find to fit in the original spot. It has awesome sound quality and I’ve never turned it up all the way. Its perfect for my current set up but has the ability to add an amp if needed in the future. Not sure what size your Clarion footprint is or how many speakers you’re trying to push but this might be worth looking into. 

66D5CA63-5F35-4423-9CED-C4081A4D4777.jpeg

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3 hours ago, rubble said:

...Is it possible to find something decent to push the speakers at a better price point?

Not usually. Most head units just dont have the umpth. I just went down his road few months ago. Removed old Fusions and old fusion head unit. You are correct in going w JL and the 7.7s M3 are far better than the 6.5 M3s. Like maybe sound twice as deep and clear. Makes no sense but worth the hundred bucks. You want the M3 NOT the M6 series. The M6 I guess are for super high power for extended period maybe and sound much more "tinny."

I tried a head unit and 6.5s and it was blah then swapped to 7.7s and it was better but not remarkable then added the small JL amp and it was absolutely stunning to me the difference. Even though everyone had said it would be night and day I had to hear it for myself.  I am 60 so I don't need it loud like in my days of youth but I like to hear it clearly and the amp is just amazing at that. You owe it to yourself to call or message these folks. https://creativeaudio.net They packaged me a deal and took several hundred off JL Audio MSRP.  They don't post on site but when they send you a quote it is way less than published prices. Florida company with knowledgable folks and lightening fast shipping which was free as well. Can't say enough good about them and JL Audio components. A buddy told me about them and I had never dealt with them but really good help. The head unit they recommended was Rockford Fosgate and that saved quite a bit. I have some before and after video/sound that is amazing.

To your questions:

1. JL Audio 7.7 M3 https://creativeaudio.net/m3-770x-s-gw/

2. Rockford-Fosgate PMX-1 https://creativeaudio.net/pmx-1/

3. YES Indeed! I run the JL Audio 200/2 amp. https://creativeaudio.net/m200-2/

 

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21 hours ago, rubble said:

Is the amp a deal breaker?  Looks like the JL Audio amps are pricey as well.  Is it possible to find something decent to push the speakers at a better price point?

Amp is imperative if you want quality sound and want speakers to perform.  You don’t need a JL amp.  I run a Skar 500 watt amp on two 6.5’s and one 8” sub.  I had a JL M400 previously and the Skar performs as good or better.  

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  • 9 months later...

JL 7.7s and amp are headed my way from Creative Audio.  No sub or head unit this go around but definitely the next mod coming.  

 

Suggestions on speaker wire?   Currently just have cheap residential speaker wire in the boat and it seems to work.  Do I need to upgrade to a heavy gauge marine wire?  

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On 9/9/2023 at 2:52 PM, MuddyBottomBluz said:

Remember that you cannot heat shrink the speaker connections at the amp. My .02 cents. 

What happens at the AMP?  Never put in an amp before.  Guessing that you run speaker wire from Receiver to amp and then Speaker Wire from Amp to Speakers.  Does the amp have set pin type or threaded screw in connections like on the back of home receivers?

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Looking at the amp power, it states to use a 4ga wire from battery to amp with an inline breaker.  What do your setups look like?  Are you coming off of battery or battery switch or powering from a fuse panel?  If battery or battery switch, what size breaker.    

Installing Fusion SG-DA41400

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1 hour ago, rubble said:

Looking at the amp power, it states to use a 4ga wire from battery to amp with an inline breaker.  What do your setups look like?  Are you coming off of battery or battery switch or powering from a fuse panel?  If battery or battery switch, what size breaker.    

Installing Fusion SG-DA41400

This is how I wire all my amps…

Amp ground goes straight to house battery.  Amp power goes to 40amp breaker.  Other side of breaker goes straight to house battery.  Amp remote wire goes to battery switch or to open power slot on main fuse panel (battery switch should be killing fuse panel). If installing a radio and amp… tie both radio and amp remote together so they turn on and off together.  

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16 minutes ago, Lap it Up said:

This is how I wire all my amps…

Amp ground goes straight to house battery.  Amp power goes to 40amp breaker.  Other side of breaker goes straight to house battery.  Amp remote wire goes to battery switch or to open power slot on main fuse panel (battery switch should be killing fuse panel). If installing a radio and amp… tie both radio and amp remote together so they turn on and off together.  

So Will have radio that has remote line for amp.  Just connect Amp remote and Radio remote or run both to same fuse panel or slot?

 

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