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Help! Yamaha f250 overheating at Idle speed only.


NNFD197

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While moving at a slow no wake speed, my high temp alarm goes off and my tell-tale stream is super hot to touch. After shutting off, waiting, and giving it another go, same thing happened. I shut her down again for a little longer then decided to give it another go, but at a faster speed, like a slow wake speed to get to a channel where I could get up on plane. While doing that I never got the alarm again until i dropped down to a slow idle speed again. I read on here that someone with an 2006 had a similar problem, and members mentioned a popper or pcv. Does anyone know If my motor has one and if so, where is it located? I tried searching for it on the SIM yamaha diagrham but had no luck. Or maybe someone has another answer to my problem. This issue has already melted the impellar housing, so I now have a brand new water pump kit installed plus a new housing as well as new thermostats and plugs, and overheating problem is still happening. Thanks in advance, motor is a 2013 3.3 with 380 hrs on it.

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Being a 2013 F250 3.3L makes this a tough question. The early F250 had some problems as you describe but a 2013 I do not think would  have those problems.

Overheat at idle on a v6 sends me straight to the thermostats. If one hangs open the opposite three cylinders (bank) might sound the alarm due to lack of flow at idle. A water pressure increase (RPM Increase and volume increase) would force water through and cool both banks again.

Anyway, If it were me, I would test both thermostats new on not. Look for stuck open. I would also recheck my water pump again and be sure there was no sudden wear or assembly problems.

I would also pull the new plugs, look for lean condition or anything unusual.

The 3.3L has a Pressure Control valve?????   Check this out. Does this look anything like yours????

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum/general-discussion/yamaha-outboard-forum/230798-2014-f250-3-3l-overheat-at-idle

 

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3 hours ago, jh141 said:

Being a 2013 F250 3.3L makes this a tough question. The early F250 had some problems as you describe but a 2013 I do not think would  have those problems.

Overheat at idle on a v6 sends me straight to the thermostats. If one hangs open the opposite three cylinders (bank) might sound the alarm due to lack of flow at idle. A water pressure increase (RPM Increase and volume increase) would force water through and cool both banks again.

Anyway, If it were me, I would test both thermostats new on not. Look for stuck open. I would also recheck my water pump again and be sure there was no sudden wear or assembly problems.

I would also pull the new plugs, look for lean condition or anything unusual.

The 3.3L has a Pressure Control valve?????   Check this out. Does this look anything like yours????

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum/general-discussion/yamaha-outboard-forum/230798-2014-f250-3-3l-overheat-at-idle

 

Thank you your reply. Yes mine does have a PCV and I actually pulled the pics up earlier today from the same forum link you posted. I’m not sure how to remove it to check to see if it’s stuck open. I got it to rotate counter clockwise but I don’t feel like it’s backing out so I stopped. I’ll post a pic of mine. Also I know you said to check everything regardless, but  plugs, T-stats, and water pump are all new(just fyi). Not realizing the problem in time, I melted the impeller housing, so that’s new as well. Pic of my poppet below.

 

6E858EB0-DAE5-46A5-ADF8-E7677D8B1352.jpeg

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I had a similar problem with my 1995 115 two stroke...I thought it was clogged water passages.....turns out it was bad sensors on the head that relayed the overheating....

While maybe not something you don't want to do, taking it to a good mechanic who has the experience can save you frustration on the water....if the simple things, like impeller change and thermostat changes don't fix it...could require some further diagnosis.

DC

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I suspect there is oxidation built up on the threads. I would spray it with PB blaster or the like and let it sit, maybe repeat that process more than once. Be sure and use the correct wrench. It should come out.

I would have a new one on hand before removing it. I do not think they are cleanable or repairable.

You may want to get a YDS check. It will show any codes or problems. 

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12 hours ago, jh141 said:

I suspect there is oxidation built up on the threads. I would spray it with PB blaster or the like and let it sit, maybe repeat that process more than once. Be sure and use the correct wrench. It should come out.

I would have a new one on hand before removing it. I do not think they are cleanable or repairable.

You may want to get a YDS check. It will show any codes or problems. 

How do I know if its bad? The closest shop that has one is about 45 minutes away. 

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Typically low speed overheat is caused by PCV due to it being stuck open or opening too easily.  Understand that its job is to not release water from the cooling system at low RPM... the water pump obviously isnt pumping alot of volume of water at idle.... motor RPM directly correlates to the pumps RPM and the volume of water it is pumping.  so if its releasing too much water at low speed the water jackets cant fill up and evenly distribute the water to all areas hence an over heat.  At high speed the pressure is such that the water pressure can open the PCV and release the excess water so it doesnt blow out the water pump gaskets

  Scale in the water jackets is typically associated with high speed overheat but could be a factor in yours.... pull the thermostats and anything else that is installed in water jackets (like anodes if yours has them) and look into the water jackets, if you see alot of scale and buildup then it could be the culprit if you dont see much then I doubt its the issue.  

  

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