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Power Pole Options…..


HenrysCreek

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 OK….so the boat projects on the 1999 MA 18.5 continue!

To date:

  • Purchased February 2022
  • Ran it last summer and love it!
  • Spend the winter removing/replacing all nuts, bolts, hinges, cleaning up hatches/gaskets, wet sanding/compounding the deck
  • Got an opportunity to buy a nice used Yamaha 150 this spring.  Jumped on it and sold the 2 stroke 130.  LOVE the 150 power, quietness and economy
  • Summer 2023:  Refurb’d the trailer.  New lights, wheels, tires….pretty much everything
  • NOW:  Getting the boat ready for the Islamorada Owners event end of September
  • Just purchased a new 6” Atlas at a GREAT price. 
  • Looking to add 1-2 power poles…….

Rhodan runs great after a new HCB and steering box.  Their service is great!

With regards to the Power Pole, the only reason I bought the Jack Plate is so I don’t have to drill more holes in the transom above the trim tabs.  

Questions:

  • 8’ or 10’ Power Pole?
  • Blade or Pro II?
  • Which jackplate bracket?

Boat still has the poling platform, so that’s probably an issue.  I also understand that adding the JP, weight of the 150 and PP’s will affect the boat on the water.  I’m not a speed demon and have no issue using tabs to run smooth at 35-40.  Is what it is.  Also open to moving the house bank under the console to move weight forward.

Sorry to get a little off topic.  Comments on the Power Pole & bracket selections please!

Thanks

 

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Depends on the water you fish and depth I’m running a 10’ blade it’ll hold in 8/9’ water no issues, some don’t like the 10’ say it gets in the way, i just lower mine a bit like others do. PP bracket for atlas jack plate’s shouldn’t be an issue. Your shifting a bunch of weight back on the boat, others may have more advise on this.

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Thanks George.  Yeah, the weight is a little concerning, but the PP is only about 25-30 lbs.  Bigger concern is the 6” JP and 150 4 stroke.  Sure, I lost the 2 stroke and oil tank (and the old 2 stroke had a JP too), but agree…..

I’m thinking of adding one more AGM “start/house” bank and putting both under the console.  That’ll move more weight forward.  I have a 36V AGM set up on the bow, so that helps as well.

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I have twin 8 ft power poles on my 18HPX on a bracket and that’s the only way I would do it. I like the 8 footers because they end up about the same height as the poling platform. I have blades and like that they are a little quieter and softer when they deploy. When you add the weight of the 4 stroke, power poles and jackplate you will probably have to look at a different prop to make the boat run. Took me a year to get mine right. 

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25 minutes ago, Headhunter said:

I have twin 8 ft power poles on my 18HPX on a bracket and that’s the only way I would do it. I like the 8 footers because they end up about the same height as the poling platform. I have blades and like that they are a little quieter and softer when they deploy. When you add the weight of the 4 stroke, power poles and jackplate you will probably have to look at a different prop to make the boat run. Took me a year to get mine right. 

winner winner chicken dinner :) ..........I had 8 foot standard Powerpole's on my MA17...worked fine.....I had the same PP's for over 6 years....I transferred them from a 17 T.

DC

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HC - 

You don't need the Jack plate to avoid holes in your transom.   PP sells brackets that get sandwiched between your engine and your transom.   I went through this recently and my Poling platform is a custom one that sticks out pretty far.   I did a ton of research on this and ended up doing:

1) I did the Power pole Sportsman II - it was the "value" version - as in, not the cheapest (there are compromises on that model), and not the highest end (I couldn't find anything that justified the extra $$).   

2)  I went 8', because I'd heard that the 10' grasshoppered a lot.   So far, the 8' is perfect.   I cant effectively anchor in more than about 4' of water, but more than that and I'm just going to use the troller anyway.  I haven't regretted not getting the 10', and the 8' has even been problematic getting the boat into my garage - I have to deploy it to get in there.

3)  I got a very large bracket to get around my poling platform.   I was worried about stability with such an extension, but it's really turned out great.  The offset keeps the pole out of the way when fishing and/or poling.

 

I would really think twice about that jack plate - if anything, throw it on and try it without hooking it up.   I know Father of 4 really struggled with his MA when he went with a new SHO 150.  He had to pull his JP off before he seemed happy with the boat again.

I can look up the specifics on my bracket and send pics if you want.   the install was SUPER easy with those - I didn't even have to remove the engine - we just supported it, loosened bolts on one side while installing on the other.   

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Thanks for all the advice. Lots to consider. If you have pics of your setups, please post them here or you can email them to me. My email is my user name @ gmail.com

Would really like to see the extended PP bracket attached to the mounting bolts (no JP) and the PP mounts on a JP.  
 

Another option is to remove the platform all together to save some weight, but that changes the look and I’ll have to figure out where to mount an anchor light. 

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I would either use the  long pp bracket or remove your polling platform and use a standard pp bracket sandwiched between the motor and the transom. Avoid the Jack plate in my opinion. My 18 master angler came without a platform from the factory. It’s a heavy boat to start with so you’re on the trolling motor much more than the pole. I have polled it a few times for buddies to fly fish by standing on the back deck on my yeti. I get a ton of people saying how cool it looks without a platform at sand bars and boat ramps. I had 2 rod holders welded onto my backrest for trolling or dead sticking. 

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17 minutes ago, HenrysCreek said:

My ‘99 was the last year of the external trim tabs, so no stringer issues that I’m aware of. Tank was replaced about 7 years ago (2 owners ago), so not sure if they went with poly or aluminum. I assume aluminum because I still have close to 45-50 gallons available. 

That's great to hear.  They changed the stringer design on the recessed trim tabs sometime between 2001 and 2002, and as far as I can tell, the only thing that causes this to be an issue on the 2000/2001 is the trailer configuration - if the stern is not supported at the keel.   That's what popped mine free, but the design allowed for it.

 

As for tanks, while Poly apparently lasts longer, it allows fumes to permeate.   I'm glad I won't have to replace my tank, but man, it does make everything smell like fuel.  

And I'd try to keep that poling platform.  I do pole my boat quite a bit, but even when in deeper water, it's seriously the most prized piece of real estate on my boat!  My kids and wife (and I) love to sit up there when we get tired of standing!

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Just note: a jackplate on your boat will add ZERO speed performance.  What it does is allow you to run the motor higher at speed in pucker depths.  Also helps when idling in and out of pucker depths and if the setup is correct, helps you pop up in pucker depths when combined with tabs.  Let’s face it… a 18 MA is heavy and isn’t going to be poling across inches of water in any configuration.  That’s not the design of the boat, so adding a half inch of stern squat won’t change your fishing areas by much.  
 

With that being said:  you can’t just add a jackplate alone.  You should also add a water pressure gauge and true low water pickup nose cone to truly benefit from the jackplate height.  You will also likely need a bow and stern lifting prop to counter the added setback.  
 

I boat in all the areas you mentioned and I vote jackplate.  I’ve installed one on every flats boat or skiff I’ve owned.  It comes down to preference.  

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12 minutes ago, Lap it Up said:

Just note: a jackplate on your boat will add ZERO speed performance.  What it does is allow you to run the motor higher at speed in pucker depths.  Also helps when idling in and out of pucker depths and if the setup is correct, helps you pop up in pucker depths when combined with tabs.  Let’s face it… a 18 MA is heavy and isn’t going to be poling across inches of water in any configuration.  That’s not the design of the boat, so adding a half inch of stern squat won’t change your fishing areas by much.  
 

With that being said:  you can’t just add a jackplate alone.  You should also add a water pressure gauge and true low water pickup nose cone to truly benefit from the jackplate height.  You will also likely need a bow and stern lifting prop to counter the added setback.  
 

I boat in all the areas you mentioned and I vote jackplate.  I’ve installed one on every flats boat or skiff I’ve owned.  It comes down to preference.  

Lap - that is SO not true.   I consistently pole my MA in inches of water.  It's just that it's usually double digit inches ;)

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5 hours ago, HenrysCreek said:

For those of you that fish the ENP and down into the Keys, any shallow water issues by NOT having a jack plate?  I plan to spend more time down there and want my MA to be dialed in as good as possible for running “shallow”. 
Thanks!

not necessary.....nice to have, but, not necessary...I ran my MA17 for 2 years without one....

DC

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:  Thanks again for everyone’s recommendations.  I ended up taking WhichWaysUp advice and NOT doing to the Atlas jack plate.  Instead, I found PP Pro II’s on sale at BPS/Cabelas and purchased 2 8’ whites from them and the brackets he mentioned above (direct from PP).  Have the PP’s, just awaiting the brackets to arrive.  I’ll post pics in the next week once I get them installed.

PS:  BPS/Cabelas have these on sale for $1499 each ($300 off).  

If anyone needs a brand new 6” Atlas Heavy Duty jack plate, let me know.  I got a great deal well below retail and I’m happy to see it for my cost ($1000).

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