rubble Posted January 13 Report Share Posted January 13 Going to add backup power to our house soon. Hope to do it before Spring Storms arrive and not too late for Winter freeze or snow outages. Looking to you folks in storm areas that may have similar setups. Would love to have Whole House power but not necessary. What are the best options for setting up the panel to power the necessaries (Refridgeration, Heat/Air, Lights, Range)? Use an Interlock Panel Device or a Transfer Switch? Willing at add a new panel and move essentials over to it and then set that power up for Emergency Power or just do an interlock and mark the essential breakers. What works good for you folks that are in Hurricane areas with similar backup systems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE OUTLAW Posted January 13 Report Share Posted January 13 I added a new panel and a transfer switch and a plug . Then , I had TECO hook my house up for natural gas . Bought. Champion 8500 generator, and then converted it to natural gas . Lastly Champion sells this killer tent , that covers the generator, so it can be in the rain . It powers my whole house . Its no Generac , but did not cost as much either . 🇺🇸🏴☠️ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Current: 27 kw water cooled Genrac quiet source, 200 amp transfer switch, 500 gal propane tank, loads you have listed ( heat/air, range if electric high loads) before this we used a 6500 watt gas gen, dedicated plug to distribution panel ( all panels have main’s to isolate from utility co) , you could run all lighting, ceiling fans, microwave, window unit, friges and freezer’s, when nothing else was on you could run 1 water heater, fuel burn for 16 hrs about 10 gal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted January 14 Author Report Share Posted January 14 I have a 200 amp service as well. If having to run off of backup power, I think I would turn off some breakers to make sure I didn’t overload. House has two 4-ton heat pumps but I think I could turn one off as well as shut off some other appliances that aren’t necessary. We have natural gas so I could get a dedicated generator to run off of that but in my business I own several smaller portable gensets in the 10k2 to 12kw range that could be used. I’ve also thought about using some EcoFlow combinations to power since I could keep those inside. Would use solar to recharge or use genset to recharge if in a pinch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief5130 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 We added a 24KW Honeywell whole house generator (It is a Generac) that runs off the LP tanks. Our house is all electric including the well pump and water heater, except for the range. We had a stand alone generator, put this is much better, convenient and automatic. Very happy with this setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Put a pencil to the amp load your looking at, you can do a fair amount to make things livable with 25/30 amps by managing loads, fuel or gas is another issue, burn 10 gal a day thats 70 gal for a week, last major storm utilizes down 20+ days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted January 14 Author Report Share Posted January 14 1 hour ago, George Seither said: Put a pencil to the amp load your looking at, you can do a fair amount to make things livable with 25/30 amps by managing loads, fuel or gas is another issue, burn 10 gal a day thats 70 gal for a week, last major storm utilizes down 20+ days. Go based on the written specs of the appliances or is there a way to measure the actual draw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Heavy loads ( 240V) I used a Amp Probe and measures starting inrush of appliances with motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 I have the same set up as The Outlaw with the mechanical interlock on the house's main panel. We do not have heating concerns in S. Florida obviously but we do have cooling concerns. Cooling the whole house can burn some fuel so mini-splits play a great equalizer in keeping the house cool. 10 hours ago, George Seither said: Put a pencil to the amp load your looking at, you can do a fair amount to make things livable with 25/30 amps by managing loads, fuel or gas is another issue, burn 10 gal a day thats 70 gal for a week, last major storm utilizes down 20+ days. This is critical because if you are on emergency power then replenishing fuel could be difficult. Load shedding is critical and all the ghost loads that will increase the burn rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 While in Puerto Rico for grandsons wedding loads of homes had Tesla wall back up power systems with solar panels due to brown and blackouts from local utility company, they work! not sure of cost or maintenance required but may be an additional option for backup power and reduce fuel burn, we keep small window units on hand as well, On fuel cost running a 1800 RPM unit at 50% load ( Fuel Burn Rate 1.5 GPM 18hrs per day with load management) for 14 days equaled 900.00 propane bill ( Propane Tracks Unleaded Gas on cost + Delivery added), 2 Cyl Air cooled units burn as much as 4 cyl water cooled same loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurem Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 wow, this forum is great. My New Year resolution, if you want to call it that, Is to get my mom a Home backup generator for her home in the low country of South Carolina. I am in Florida, so I have my work cut out for me to do it remotely. I don't know anything about them and just started reading at the beginning of the year. Continue on!! Subscribed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 10 hours ago, George Seither said: Heavy loads ( 240V) I used a Amp Probe and measures starting inrush of appliances with motors. If you do not have a meter then the name plate of the appliance like your A/C will tell you what the amps are. It will usually be displayed on the information sticker of an appliance. LRA - Locked Rotor Amps which is what George correctly refers to as "In Rush" This is what the device will pull just to start. Then RLA - Run Load Amps is what the load is once the device is running. Do not get a generator based on the RLA of an appliance because the breaker will trip every time a large appliance that pulls LRA is trying to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2KiiNG Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 I have 4 Tesla power wall 2's paired with a 15,200kw of solar panels for my home back up solution. In theory I can operate off the grid indefinitely. I figured if the panels get ripped off in a named storm then I have bigger issues to worry about 😅. The Tesla gateway immediately senses when power is lost and the transition to battery back-up is seamless. If I didn't check the app I wouldn't even know that the system was providing back up power. I love it! My FPL bill is pretty much non-existent now too. I only pay the minimum to be connected to the grid which is $25 a month. I took advantage of the 30% non-payable tax credit and decided instead of paying uncle sam, I would make an upgrade to my home which adds value to any new buyers if I ever do decide to sell. 10/year warranty on the batteries. 25/year warranty on the panels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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