PGolz Posted April 8 Report Share Posted April 8 Looking for some input.. I have a 2003 Pathfinder 2400V I have been restoring over the last 3 years and I am finally getting around to a repower. Full build thread in my profile if anyone wants to check it out. When I got the boat there was a make shift piece of aluminum diamond plate over the top/back of the transom and visible cracking running underneath it. I’ve always known that there were some repairs to be made when the motor finally came off. Included photos of the transom below. Everything feels a solid but obviously the top needs some attention. Looks like there was some water intrusion though the core material in all 4 of the bolt holes seems to be dry. Having a fiberglass guy look at it this week but trying to get some more info. Has anyone had/repaired similiar issues on their boat? Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the transom as a whole? Or is this an isolated repair? What core material would the factory have used in a 2003 2400V? Any knowledge is appreciated! Photos with motor still on Motor off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 That looks pretty isolated to to top portion. I’m sure you fiberglass guy will know a lot more than me but it looks like some grinding and fresh lay up tied in correctly will fix you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 I don’t believe there is any wood in your boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 IMO - It looks like somebody, factory or owner raised the transom a few inches? You can see that perfect horizontal line on top of the original transom that shows zero damage. I think someone realized that they needed more "Meat" above that top mounting hole, look how close it is to the top of the original undamaged portion of the transom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 The lower straight line us just a crudd line from the metal. It was definitely put on after the motor was mounted as you can see the cut out for the backplate. Would not be overly concerned about the outside cracks. A view from the inside to see if the cap is cracking or showing signs of separation on the inside corners Would tell you more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGolz Posted April 10 Author Report Share Posted April 10 On 4/9/2024 at 7:11 AM, MuddyBottomBluz said: IMO - It looks like somebody, factory or owner raised the transom a few inches? You can see that perfect horizontal line on top of the original transom that shows zero damage. I think someone realized that they needed more "Meat" above that top mounting hole, look how close it is to the top of the original undamaged portion of the transom. Fiberglass guy agrees that the transom was likely extended at one point in time (he thinks by factory) and is now failing. Looking like a slightly larger repair than I had hoped for but too far along on this project to stop now. Got a 300 Yamaha coming at the end of the month that needs a sturdy transom to mount to! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 A picture of the inside is where the answer is. You have to realize how a boat comes out of the mold. The very top of the transom is part of the deck mold. The top of the transom is unfinished and trimmed to fit the deck. Any space is filled/ glassed in and finished with thickened gell coat. The upper cracks are the thickened gelcoat chipping away with some spider cracks due to the bolts being so high . Take a putty knife and watch it flake off. Use some good cleaner and scotch pad and watch the lower straight line clean up. Now if there are cracks on the inside of the cap I would rethink my theory but the cap looks too good in the pictures provided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 Looking back at the picture of your Yamaha jacked up sky high on your jack plate. It looks like that could have been to long of a motor for your hull. If that is the case it would lend credence to raising the transom height. I would verify the correct transom height and motor shaft length before moving forward. Then again I could be totally off base:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGolz Posted April 10 Author Report Share Posted April 10 @HoneyB Now you’ve got me worried! I believe the Yamaha that was on it, with a 25” shaft, was original to the boat. Some quick reading online seems to confirm that, but could be.. I’ve already got another 25” motor lined up to go on so hope it works.. Took some photos from the inside, looks good at first glance but closer inspection shows some indentation on the left side of where the transom support plate was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 Ohh pay no attention to me. your picture I saw was probably just a illusion I think the transom is supposed to be 25in yes sir . Given where the mounting plates are, you certainty can not lower the transom. It is just odd that even the glass guy said the transom was added onto. your other upgrades look awesome by the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 The inside looks too good not to be out of the mold. If the curves and angles were done after it was a hell of a job. I'll double down on the cracks being from where the hull was put together and is failing. I would grind out all the chipping gelcoat and if solid fill in with good glass and gelcoat the area. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted April 10 Report Share Posted April 10 I’d say factory out of mold, inside looks good from what I can see, all gelcoat cracking under transom cap. What does the glass guy say the repair will be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGolz Posted April 11 Author Report Share Posted April 11 He’s going to start grinding and see how it looks but plans on taking out the bad and replacing with some coosa and glass with epoxy. Using Alligaitor Fiberglass who came highly recommended on here and with others so I am trusting his judgement. Want to be sure it’s solid before I put this heavier engine on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGolz Posted April 25 Author Report Share Posted April 25 Finally got some pictures from the shop that shed a bit more light on the root of the issue. Fortunately, as many suspected, the compromised area was isolated to the top few inches of the transom. The first two pictures show what they found after grinding it down some, appears the gap between the hull and deck was filled with bonding putty or similar.. Next few photos show the repair in process. Bad material was removed and filled back with Coosa using epoxy. Looking forward to getting the boat back as the new (to me) motor awaits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 Looking good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whichwaysup Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 This is crazy - this looks like a factory "duct tape" solution. Why would they use bonding putty to fill such a huge gap between the top of the (assume composite) transom and the top of the transom area? That's crazy! It's not like there's any stress on a transom where the ENGINE GOES - what am I missing here? It looks like your shop ground out the putty and replaced it with a piece of Coosa that they laminated in, is that right? Why wouldn't Pathfinder have done that in the first place?? I'm sure I'm missing something. . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 That may have been damage from a rear-end collision or backing with the lower unit down.. I can honestly say that that’s not factory work 20 years ago. Marc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoneyB Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 My money would be on it was factory. I bet some engineer said this stuff will last a lifetime! Pour it in make the transom 25 inch. It will be fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 On 4/8/2024 at 6:27 PM, PGolz said: Photos with motor still on I don’t think the Factory used Flats Jacks, only Bob’s, then Atlas Jack plates. The screwed-on diamond plate does not look original either.. Marc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGolz Posted April 25 Author Report Share Posted April 25 3 hours ago, Moderator said: Marc That’s a Bob’s flats jac.. But there is an outline on the transom from the engine at one point being mounted straight to the boat so the jack plate may not be original. I agree the diamond plate is likely not factory but the inside looked too good to not be out of the mold to me. Consensus at the shop is that it’s factory, but all I care about it getting it right so I can get back on the water! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seither Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 Get her finished and back in the water catching fish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 I was wrong.. Sorry. I hope you get on the water quickly. Whoever did that work was a hack.. Those 24V’s are great platforms.. Fish pics next ! MM 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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