Trailer Lights

[DonV]

Some personal experience notes on this,

1. tie wraps are your friend, black U/V protected ones, not white

2. spend the extra few cents on heavy duty adhesive shrink wrap

3. always leave a couple loops of extra wire just in front of the lights in case you have to replace a light

4. pipe lights are great, especially LEDs, however seal the lights and pvc fittings, keeps an "air chamber" in the pipe when you back into the water

 

And......I've done this twice on larger trailers. mount a plastic water proof electrical box at the winch area of the trailer. Mount four buss bars, one for the running lights, one each for brake/turn lights and one for ground. Bring your wires in from the trailer plug to the top of the buss bar, you then can do the home runs with extension cords to each of your side lights, tail lights and center lights at the rear cross bar. This eliminates any open splices CorrosionX or similar when finished on the buss bars. It's overkill to some, however if you use your boat a lot it's fool proof and easy to trace problems.

[jason p]

On August 23, 2016 at 8:06 AM, DonV said:

4. pipe lights are great, especially LEDs, however seal the lights and pvc fittings, keeps an "air chamber" in the pipe when you back into the water

Drill a small hole near the top of the pipes and the air will escape, did this on my old center console. 

[DonV]

Actually I prefer the air not to escape. It will help keep the water off the connections at the back of the lights. Every little bit counts. If you are using the galvanized guide on you're going to "pin" the PVC so it will not rotate, which keeps the lights pointing to the rear, that way you don't have to worry about the pipe lights floating off. My two cents. However I have drilled a 1/4" hole on my boat lift PVC uprights as you mentioned.

[Nehrke]

So - finally broke down and ordered pipe lights when on way back from ramp today buddy following me tells me my right light is out. Interested in the extension cord option - is there a specific type of cord I need? I have a 100' 2 hole - thinking that is not going to work as if I understand right it has no ground wire. I did take electrical engineering, but all I remember is Mr paper clip and Mrs electrical outlet do not play well together......alternatively I would take a recommendation on a traditional trailer wiring harness. I read the "tinned" discussion, but the only one I see on Amazon is the Seasense one I can get at Walmart. Appreciate the help -Nehrke 

[jason p]

14/3 or 16/3 extension cord. 

[SCFD rtrd.]

I've never used the extension cord method, but if I did, I'd choose an outdoors cord. You need some type of cord with UV protection. I don't think a standard extension cord would last many years in the sun or outdoors environment. Just saying.

The most important part of this operation is the connections. If the wire connections fail, then nothing else matters. I like to solder my connections, but that's just my preference. The secrete is keeping the water out (DonV gives some good advise on waterproofing your connections).

Another thing to remember is; don't over tighten the bolts that hold the new lights to the light brackets. If you over tighten the bolts, you will crack the lights housing or it will crack later during weather extremes. I usually add a rubber washer between the light housing and the brackets to compensate for vibration, and changes in weather. Don't use the nuts that come with the lights, buy S/S lock nuts. With lock nuts you don't have to put too much pressure on the lights to keep them in place.  

 

[Wanaflatsfish]

On 8/16/2016 at 7:45 PM, triplec said:

6 years on my LEDs and wouldn't run anything else. As others through, make junctions at tongue and home runs for each light. On mine I make connections above and keep lights above water. Only sees salt so I wondered how they would hold up. Mine are much brighter over time than incandescent. As Dino says...its always the ground...when there is an issue...or so it seems.

 

You nose dats rite !!!! always go to ground  

 

Learned that from my good friend HOBO

 

Double heat shrink the connections...i even saw one post where a poster used 5200 over the outside of the connection to seal it....I've done that in the past...and it's messy, but, definately seals it up....I wrapped it in some celophane when I ran out of heat shrink and was heading out the next day...worked and held for several years.....nothing like a good gob of 5200 to keep out the water

but, all the posters are correct...use good wiring..there is an article in this month's boating magazine from west marine I think it is...they recommend as stated above...just rip out all the old wiring and install a new harness...for the extra $50...not worth the time and trouble...i've done it on almost every boat trailer i've had....takes about 2 hours, lots of cursing and adult beverages for the tension relief when you are finished with the work...but, it's easy peasy when you have the right tools...

1.) crimper - heavy duty

2.) heat gun

3.) wire stripper (buy good ones from homecheapo) Capt DonH has some really cool ones we used when re-wiring the skinny mini that sheared it down perfectly depending on the size wire

4.) crimps

5.) lots of heat shrink tubes

6.) Dialetic grease for the crimps and connections (put inside the crimps if you really want to do it right - pain in the arse but works)

7.) lots of time and a rug to lay on when you are doing the work...

8.) Call Bob at Inshore marine when they don't work (LOL)

 

dc

 

[Nehrke]

So - just to be sure - I have my pipe lights, and i am running 3 wires all the way up front from each (marine tinned wire). Can I hook mt grounds directly to the white ground on the plug that plugs into my truck and eliminate the ground on the trailer?

Is this what "home-run" grounding is? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do it once, and do it right. Thanks - Nehrke

[rckeat]

I used a bus bar and ran a single wire from the trailer pigtail to the bus bar, then individual ground wires from each light to the bus bar.  

[blewbyu]

On 8/15/2016 at 7:35 AM, THE OUTLAW said:

Use the pipe lights .

Put all splices right under the lights .

Use a heavy duty extension cord .

Run up both sides of trailer .

Most important .

ELIMINATE THE SIDE LIGHTS

That extra splice is your weak link.

Instead , use the red/white trailer reflective tape .

That works 24-7-365.

Then, put your plug connections inside your trailer , two to three feet behind the hitch .

Lastly , I sealed up the forward channel , behind the hitch with closed cell foam .

There is no exposed connections , the lights never get wet , and there are no splices between the lights and the plug .

5 yesrs . 0 issues

 

K.I.S.S

Pipe lights above the water line is the only way. My LED's are three yrs old and work every trip. Ditto on the side lights exclusion

 

[hurricane]

Pipe lights are great and should last most of the trailers life. Im not a fan of using an extension cord. In marine use you want tinned copper wire, extension cords are not tinned,also there is usually a paper trace wrap in the cord and that can absorb water. Tinned copper will cost a bit more, but if you're spending the money for pipe lights its small addition.   Run the ground to the front.

Also Dielectric grease is not intended to be used in electrical connections. Dielectric grease is used for the prevention of electrical conduction.

[SCFD rtrd.]

On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 10:11 AM, Nehrke said:

So - just to be sure - I have my pipe lights, and i am running 3 wires all the way up front from each (marine tinned wire). Can I hook mt grounds directly to the white ground on the plug that plugs into my truck and eliminate the ground on the trailer?

Is this what "home-run" grounding is? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do it once, and do it right. Thanks - Nehrke

Look around and you will find trailer wiring harnesses with a white ground wire on both sides or the run. In other words, the harness will have three wires per side, on being the white ground. I've never used tinned wire on my trailer, just bought a quality wiring harness. The secrete is glue lined heat-shrink. My last trailer had the same flawless wiring for 12 years, but I installed it myself.   

[FunFlatsFishing]

On ‎10‎/‎11‎/‎2016 at 9:25 PM, hurricane said:

Also Dielectric grease is not intended to be used in electrical connections. Dielectric grease is used for the prevention of electrical conduction.

This seems to be a major topic of debate.

Best description I've seen is: dielectric grease also prevents corrosion when applied directly to metal connectors. Though it works well for this purpose, it can sometimes cause a connection to stop working if not all of the grease is pushed out of the way between the points of contact inside the connector.