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Minn Kota or Xi5 ???


Scout6

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I can't offer any opinion on which is better, as I have only used the iPilot and Ulterra.  But I do know you need a 60 inch shaft.  That is what I have on my 2007 2200V.  I run a 24V Ulterra now, and love it.  It think it is rated at 80 lbs of thrust, which is plenty. 

I would also recommend the quick release bracket.  While you are installing, I would consider upgrading the plug-in in the anchor locker to the Battery Tender brand plug.  It is kind of pricey, but it sure cuts down on problems in the long run.

Also, it seems I remember reading somewhere that Minn Kota was updating or upgrading their spot lock, or anchor feature.  I would certainly ensure that I got (or waited for) the upgraded model if I went that route!

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On Tuesday, September 06, 2016 at 3:10 PM, Scout6 said:

About to pull the trigger on my first TM. I have a 2200V and I'm kinda lost between the Xi5 or Minn Kota iPilot. I figured this would be the best place for answers. Opinions on which is better? Also lbs and shaft length advice would be amazing. 

I have not spent a day on the water with the Xi5, but did test it out at a Sportsman Show.  Was impressed with how quiet the motors are compared to my Kota.  I am on my second Ipilot and would buy a third in a hearbeat.  

The saltwater Ulterra is awesome, my tourney partner has one.  

A word of advice, whatever one you choose, be sure to buy a spare remote and keep extra batteries on the boat. 

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Definitely go with the long shaft.  Also, I'd really think hard about the 112lb, 36v if you can swing the extra dough and battery.  I have a 2400, so can't speak to the 2200 specifically, but depending on what you do I'd probably want the increased power and efficiency.  If there was a bigger option than the 36v, i'd have to think hard about it as I could use some extra juice on my 2400, think it would would really move a 2200.  

I have the ipilot and do like it, no experience with the xi5.  But my I have had MinnKotas and Motorguides and preferred the MinnKotas overall.  Last Motorguide has been a while though.  I don't know what the latest and greatest is on each make, but if one of them offered an option to have remote control as well as a release for hand control, that's the one I'd want.  Remote control is awesome, but plenty of times when I'm up on the bow I miss a cast because I had to reach for the remote to avoid a mangrove or stay on course where I could have used my leg or something while I was still fishing. 

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I have both, the iPilot on my gatortail and Xi5 on my Pathfinder 2300.  The anchor feature on the Xi5 is better, but as was said above I heard that MinnKota was fixing this issue.  I love the Xi5, it is integrated with my Lawrence HDS 9 and that's the reason I bought it.  I also have a spare remote and the wireless foot pedal, which I have not used yet to comment on.  I got the 36 v 60" shaft and am sure glad I did.  I have fished two days without charging and hadn't seen a drop in power yet.  If minnkota would have had the auto stow/deploy for saltwater when I was in the market I think that would have convinced me to buy it, however, I had already tested the anchor feature and the Motorguide won hands down.

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I have had and used ipilot since they came out, have had the xi5 for over a year and its so much better i cant stand the ipilot now when i fish with buddies. Don't get one with out the pinpoint feature tho, when they say pinpoint thats no lie its dead nuts. The ipilot is not even close on the anchor feature when compared. Mine has had zero problems, I have dunked the remotes wading forgetting i had them on waist and never an issue going bad either. I use a 60 inch 24v on my tourney now. During tarpon season i will spend 8+ hours on a guide trip chasing poons with no issues never wishes i had the 36v. I sit in strong passes fishing docks and rocks for extended periods also and never had issue holding in place. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/6/2016 at 5:01 PM, JEM said:

I can't offer any opinion on which is better, as I have only used the iPilot and Ulterra.  But I do know you need a 60 inch shaft.  That is what I have on my 2007 2200V.  I run a 24V Ulterra now, and love it.  It think it is rated at 80 lbs of thrust, which is plenty. 

I would also recommend the quick release bracket.  While you are installing, I would consider upgrading the plug-in in the anchor locker to the Battery Tender brand plug.  It is kind of pricey, but it sure cuts down on problems in the long run.

Also, it seems I remember reading somewhere that Minn Kota was updating or upgrading their spot lock, or anchor feature.  I would certainly ensure that I got (or waited for) the upgraded model if I went that route!

So my Xi5 has arrived. Now to the next step the dreaded install. Just want to make sure I grab the right stuff. Is the quick release bracket that your talking about the white one motorguide offers? Has like a slide in locking system and made out of composite. I think I've seen the around $50/60. Do you have any photos of your setup? 

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Any photos of your setups would be awesome. I want to set it up with a plug-in QD but I wouldn't know where to put it. And one more thing from this noob boater, Any tricks of the trade to running the wires through hull from TM to center console?? Thanks in advance.  

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19 hours ago, Scout6 said:

Any photos of your setups would be awesome. I want to set it up with a plug-in QD but I wouldn't know where to put it. And one more thing from this noob boater, Any tricks of the trade to running the wires through hull from TM to center console?? Thanks in advance.  

Hard wire without a plug. If you ever need to remove the xi5 from your boat it's easy to unscrew the positive and negative from the unit. I've had nothing but problems with plugs in years past and yes even the battery tender plug. 

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I have had good luck with the battery tender plug, the others not so much. As far as mounting it yes you need the quick disconnect bracket with the "puck" that stays on the deck if you plan to make it removable. When drilling the holes for the puck I struggled to get to the back of mine to thru bolt because of how far forward the puck was. I read where some guys swapped the bracket around to bring the puck back some on the deck, I would look into this option. Make sure you feel around underneath to know that you can get to the holes. I have seen some installs where the forward bolts are through the actual hull and the nuts are under the rubrail, I try to avoid that but sometimes it isnt possible.    

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13 hours ago, CG RYAN said:

I have had good luck with the battery tender plug, the others not so much. As far as mounting it yes you need the quick disconnect bracket with the "puck" that stays on the deck if you plan to make it removable. When drilling the holes for the puck I struggled to get to the back of mine to thru bolt because of how far forward the puck was. I read where some guys swapped the bracket around to bring the puck back some on the deck, I would look into this option. Make sure you feel around underneath to know that you can get to the holes. I have seen some installs where the forward bolts are through the actual hull and the nuts are under the rubrail, I try to avoid that but sometimes it isnt possible.    

 

4 hours ago, Bruce J said:

And be sure to get one of these...

 

 

So far so good. I was able to mount the MG without too much hassle. One thing I've noticed is there is a lot of room for bounce in the stowed position. I looked at some braces to mount on my gunnels but they seem kind of clunky. So I guess my next question to you guys, is there a product or technique you guys recommend to avoid this problem? Now here's the big question. LETS TALK BATTERIES.... I got lost quick. Please send some ideas my way on good not overly priced batteries. Keep in mind, I went with a 24v 80lbs Xi5. Thanks in advance.  

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I don't have a stabilizer for the head either, but even when going offshore or in pretty rough chop, I haven't been concerned about it. And I can't add much on batteries either. I have whatever conventional deep cells the dealer installed and didn't look into it any further. I think there are a number of other posts on this site and others about preferred trolley batteries, however. 

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If you open the head up you'll notice there is nothing inside of there except wires, so no issue with the bouncing, and like hurricane said, the soft bounce is better than rigid vibrations in my opinion - the shaft wont break from this.  I just use the batteries that the dealer installed (group 27 marine deep cycle), and will replace with NAPA batteries once depleted (about $100 - $120 each).  I use these in my two other boats and can get 3-5 years out of them.  In my opinion the most important thing to do for your batteries is to install a good quality charger that conditions the batteries and I keep mine plugged in all the time. 

Tip: ensure the four screws on the back of the remote are in place and secure to ensure water tightness.  I had one either back out or was never there, but all it took was one dip in the livewell when I leaned over and it fried.  I ended up buying another remote and a foot pedal as a backup. 

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On 9/22/2016 at 2:21 PM, Laid Back said:

If you open the head up you'll notice there is nothing inside of there except wires, so no issue with the bouncing, and like hurricane said, the soft bounce is better than rigid vibrations in my opinion - the shaft wont break from this.  I just use the batteries that the dealer installed (group 27 marine deep cycle), and will replace with NAPA batteries once depleted (about $100 - $120 each).  I use these in my two other boats and can get 3-5 years out of them.  In my opinion the most important thing to do for your batteries is to install a good quality charger that conditions the batteries and I keep mine plugged in all the time. 

Tip: ensure the four screws on the back of the remote are in place and secure to ensure water tightness.  I had one either back out or was never there, but all it took was one dip in the livewell when I leaned over and it fried.  I ended up buying another remote and a foot pedal as a backup. 

I will look into NAPA batteries for sure. The bounce I'm worried about is the head hitting the gunnel. The distance ended up being around 2 inches of space. Thanks for the heads up about the remote.

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I'm out in rough stuff ALOT in my 20... despite some pretty good pounding ive not noticed the xi5 jarring at all.  The coiled wires will bounce enough to slap the deck so I wrap a Velcro strap around it.  There actually is electronics in the head though... a GPS receiver... xi5 has 2, 1 in the head and one in the mount

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I'v had the Xi5 on my 2200v for about 1-1/2 years have been very happy with it.  It holds the boat in a small area and I like the incremental adjustments front and back and left and right.  The one and only thing I don't like is the lack of an LCD screen on the remote to show which mode the motor is in.  That results in me having to rely solely on which way the motor is moving (or not moving) to know.  There are indicator lights on the base but most of the time I'm not in viewing range.  Having said that, I'm glad I have the motor.  By the way, it's been really dependable.

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