Another Newbie question or two

[david Terry]

Thanks everyone for the help with my rookie questions about the Rabud scuppers, which turned into my first simple project on my 20V Pathfinder.

I got out for the first time yesterday, since this was my first time launching and loading trailer I wanted to make sure the ramp wasn't too busy.

I noticed that the front anchor locker does not have any clip or hook to attach the end of the anchor line to. Can anyone tell me the best method and what to use for installing an anchor rope attachment?

I was also experimenting around with RPM, engine trim level and Tab levels for ride quality and speed. The engine is an F150, and it seemed that there was pretty severe cavitation and porpoising when i trimmed the engine up. I could manage it by trimming it down, but lost the rpms. I could also trim the boat down that would help, but it didn't feel right that way.

Its a 4 blade prop. I wondered if anyone could give me some rough baseline numbers that i should be looking at to see if a re prop should be considered or if things are normal.

 

thanks again

 

Thanks

 

 

[fishmanjj]

On the anchor line :  I tie off to front cleat on deck when using anchor. If we are Tarpon fishing I keep a buoy tied to line to throw out in order for boat to drift away from anchor line, catch fish / release fish and then pull back up to float and re-tie the line to front cleat.

I have a 2009 PF 2200XL and run a F150 with a 4 blade Power Tech OFXR-16....No jackplate.........trimmed out , she will run 44 mph @ 5800 rpm.  The boat really handles well @ 3800 rpm which is in the mid 30's mph. With the 3 blade 19" prop she runs a little faster on top end, but does not handle as well. 

[SCFD rtrd.]

Can't help with the ride, but can help with tying off the anchor rope. You can buy a stainless gizmo; it's basically a ring with a threaded female. It threads onto the exposed threads of your bow eye. Look into your anchor locker and see if there is enough exposed threads where your bow eye comes through the hull (maybe 1/2"). Maybe someone knows the correct name of this gizmo, so you can Google it.

[50eggs]

Lots of others on this board have more expertise than me and can expound on this, but proper trim is a moving target based on load, conditions, etc. Any hull will porpoise with the engine trimmed up enough.  You will need to play with the trim tabs and trim on the engine and raising and lowering the jack plate if you have one. I believe the prop will have more to do with holeshot, speed and RPM than trim level.

 

Good luck

[JEM]

I have a 2007 2200V, and I added the SS lifting eye to the threaded bolts from the bow eye.  I backed off the nuts from the bow eye. and bolted the lifting Gizmo to the lifting eye.  Here is a picture.  I then tied the bitter end of the anchor rope through this. 

[JEM]

It's kinda surprising that the 4 blade would catch air.  Most people go to the 4 blade to stop the ventilation.    Hmmmm?

[Grant]

16 minutes ago, 50eggs said:

Lots of others on this board have more expertise than me and can expound on this, but proper trim is a moving target based on load, conditions, etc. Any hull will porpoise with the engine trimmed up enough.  You will need to play with the trim tabs and trim on the engine and raising and lowering the jack plate if you have one. I believe the prop will have more to do with holeshot, speed and RPM than trim level.

 

Good luck

50eggs is right.  Conditions will determine what engine and tab trim levels are appropriate.  When just getting to know the boat, try keeping the engine and tabs all the way down for the hole shot.  Bring the trim tabs up 1st and adjust for the most comfortable ride.  It only takes 4-5 seconds to fully extend or retract the tabs, so you can do this quickly as soon as you are on plane.   Next trim up the engine until you experience porpoising.  You can correct that by bumping down the trim tabs just a little bit.  Once you get the feel for the different adjustments you can experiment with what engine/tab trim combination works best for your engine/prop setup because every boat is a little different.  Every time you adjust either the tabs or engine you will see a change in RPM.  My 2000V runs 45-47 mph totally trimmed out at 5600 RPMs.  More RPM's just result in cavitation and loss of speed the way mine's set up (no jackplate).  Yours may be different so just watch for the point of diminishing return of speed from additional RPM's.

 I just use the front cleat to secure the anchor rode when needed.

 

[Bamaskeet]

I don't have a jackplate but my 2000V needs a little tab all the time, so I set the tabs and generally don't mess with them.

 

Regarding the anchor locker,. This is an idea that doesn't work as good as you think it would.  In sloppy weather the lid flops closed.  The anchor rope stays wet and smells.  While I still keep an anchor in my anchor locker, most if the time, I use a Danforth 5H High Tensile to anchor and I keep it in a milk carton in the large front locker.

[david Terry]

Thanks a lot gentlemen, I love this board, so much help.

Once I get through the hurricane  heading our way I will add that hook to the anchor locker.

Thanks also for the RPM/Tab info, i will experiment some more next time out.

 

cheers

 

[smilemaker]

The piece for the bolt is called an eye nut They can be ordered from Jamestown distributors

No sure of the size

[david Terry]

Thanks smilemaker

[SCFD rtrd.]

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 2:45 PM, smilemaker said:

The piece for the bolt is called an eye nut They can be ordered from Jamestown distributors

No sure of the size

Exactly, smilemaker is the man. I can never recall the real name of the Gizmo.