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Old style Rule auto bilge pump replacement


Grant

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After 11 years and countless incidents of being left on running dry for days at a time, my original Rule bilge pump gave it up.

I was going to upgrade with a newer style Rule, but it seems their automatic switch function doesn't run on a float anymore.  They turn on automatically every few minutes and sense if there is water back-pressure ???   I wasn't real comfortable with that setup, so I started looking and actually found some old style Rule-Mate 1100's available from an E-Bay seller.  Same as original equipment on my 2005 model 2000V, so I was able to pop the old pump body off the strainer base and drop the new pump right in.  No mounting screws to fool with (I couldn't see them anyway if I wanted to).

Anyway, here's a link to those pumps if you want to be pro-active and have an easy switch out when the time comes.  "New Old Stock" without original packaging or instructions.  Mine came slightly shelf worn but never installed.  Works great.

Not sure how many he has left:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rule-Mate-RM1100A-Automatic-Bilge-Pump-RM1100-1100-GPH-12-Volt-/121938869379

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Went the exact same route on my 2000. It really difficult to access the cage and to even get a screwdriver to take it out. With the direct replacement it's a bob Rainer. Just got it but haven't change it. 

But I found it on Amazon for a couple dollars cheaper. But not much lower. 

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I've been thinking for a while about adding a bilge pump.  I'm always worried about all the plumbing in the bilge, and the bilge filling up with water before you figure out something is wrong.

 There is a bilge pump mounting pad in my bilge but there isn't much room left on it. I was thinking about mounting a 2000 gal/hr Rule pump and float switch on a piece of 3/16" aluminum and screw it to a little remaining space on to the bilge pump pad.

Then cut a 4"-6" hole in the liner of the starboard rigging box and use a right angle fitting to go through the hull next to the existing hose fitting.

I think I will tackle this project this winter.

I'm certainly interested in  anyone's input for a better idea.

 

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On 11/20/2016 at 6:12 AM, Bamaskeet said:

I've been thinking for a while about adding a bilge pump.  I'm always worried about all the plumbing in the bilge, and the bilge filling up with water before you figure out something is wrong.

 There is a bilge pump mounting pad in my bilge but there isn't much room left on it. I was thinking about mounting a 2000 gal/hr Rule pump and float switch on a piece of 3/16" aluminum and screw it to a little remaining space on to the bilge pump pad.

Then cut a 4"-6" hole in the liner of the starboard rigging box and use a right angle fitting to go through the hull next to the existing hose fitting.

I think I will tackle this project this winter.

I'm certainly interested in  anyone's input for a better idea.

 

Bama,

What year is your hull? I was thinking the same exact thing. But curious on the pad for the bilge pump. 

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Good lead on the new old stock. Been waiting for my old style pump to die; 11years and counting.

Your statement regarding the new style pumps turning on every couple minutes to check for water prompted me to look at the rule literature. As that doesn't seem like a good option for a boat spending most of our life on trailer. Seems that the rule electronic sensing pumps do as you said but the rule mate automated pump remain off until the water level rises high enough to trigger a sensor. They should act just like the old style with a float.

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On 11/20/2016 at 7:12 AM, Bamaskeet said:

I've been thinking for a while about adding a bilge pump.  I'm always worried about all the plumbing in the bilge, and the bilge filling up with water before you figure out something is wrong.

 There is a bilge pump mounting pad in my bilge but there isn't much room left on it. I was thinking about mounting a 2000 gal/hr Rule pump and float switch on a piece of 3/16" aluminum and screw it to a little remaining space on to the bilge pump pad.

Then cut a 4"-6" hole in the liner of the starboard rigging box and use a right angle fitting to go through the hull next to the existing hose fitting.

I think I will tackle this project this winter.

I'm certainly interested in  anyone's input for a better idea.

 

 

On 11/20/2016 at 7:12 AM, Bamaskeet said:

 

I did it pretty much just how you described on my 20 footer....Not an easy task, long skinny arms with a couple of extra elbows on each would of helped...  But I enjoy the extra peace of mind....

IMG_1654.JPG

IMG_1662.JPG

IMG_1665.JPG

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3 hours ago, TP13 said:

Awesome! That's exactly what I was thinking. 

But, I cannot place where the first pic is??? Is the pump on its side?

LOL.... The pump isn't on it's side but even getting the camera in there for a picture was a tight squeeze, it's just the angle of the picture.... The camera is on it's side.B|

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I got tired of he insanity of the 2200 bilge access... so I cut a pie hole in the bottom of my rear center livewell. It is directly above my bilge pump and makes accessing it easy as pie. Not a drop of water leaks in there when the livewell is in use... and even if it did, it would leak onto my new, easily accessible Rule 1500 GPH pump and heavy duty cylinder-style float switch!

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On 11/27/2016 at 6:57 PM, nicecast said:

I got tired of he insanity of the 2200 bilge access... so I cut a pie hole in the bottom of my rear center livewell. It is directly above my bilge pump and makes accessing it easy as pie. Not a drop of water leaks in there when the livewell is in use... and even if it did, it would leak onto my new, easily accessible Rule 1500 GPH pump and heavy duty cylinder-style float switch!

Pics?!?!?

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  • 1 month later...

So I installed my replacement, old style Rule automatic pump. But now I have a different issue. The pump turns on in manual mode, but not in auto mode. I filled the bilge up, past the pump normal height where it should kick on, and never did. Pullled it out and tested the float switch with my finger, no luck. Any ideas? Could there be an electrical issue preventing the auto mode to work? Or is it a defective pump?

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How did you connect the wiring? Black to ground, Brown to switch (manual) and Brown/white to hot lead on the elect. distribution panel or battery switch. Obviously the black and brown are connected correctly because the manual function is working. Additionally, the brown/white wire has to have a fuse or circuit breaker. That may have been the problem with the original pump, the fuse or circuit breakers was tripped.

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On 12/31/2016 at 9:16 AM, TP13 said:

So I installed my replacement, old style Rule automatic pump. But now I have a different issue. The pump turns on in manual mode, but not in auto mode. I filled the bilge up, past the pump normal height where it should kick on, and never did. Pullled it out and tested the float switch with my finger, no luck. Any ideas? Could there be an electrical issue preventing the auto mode to work? Or is it a defective pump?

My 2005 model came wired with a mini circuit breaker for the "automatic" function. Is was mounted next to the battery switch in the starboard compartment.

When it went bad I replaced it with a blade fuse in the same spot.  Yours might be in a different spot, but I'll bet there's one on that circuit.

 

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I purchased a spare bilge pump when i bought the boat that matched the existing bilge. I have it wired up with jumper cable clips in case of emergency. If my original bilge goes out, ill just use the backup but then Ill have to find a matching one on Ebay or go a different route. 

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On December 31, 2016 at 9:16 AM, TP13 said:

So I installed my replacement, old style Rule automatic pump. But now I have a different issue. The pump turns on in manual mode, but not in auto mode. I filled the bilge up, past the pump normal height where it should kick on, and never did. Pullled it out and tested the float switch with my finger, no luck. Any ideas? Could there be an electrical issue preventing the auto mode to work? Or is it a defective pump?

Mine does the same thing. Interested to see what the issue is. 

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So, to answer a few questions:

wiring: I did color to color; brown to brown, black to black, brown/white to br/wh. I'm pretty sure that's how the old one was wired. But, I'm open to anything 

fuses: I've looked and found 2 inline fuses. Not sure what they go to, but both are not blown. 

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Black should be ground, Brown / White should be the manual control, and Solid Brown should be the automatic circuit. (supposedly) 

Best to check for voltage in both circuits while cycling the manual switch to confirm which is which.

You should have constant power to the automatic circuit, regardless of switch position.

If you have power in the auto circuit, then it could be a bad automatic switch.

If there's no power to the automatic circuit, there's a blown fuse, breaker, or bad connection SOMEWHERE.  If it can't be located, you'll need to run a new auto power lead. (which should be in-line fused)

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/27/2016 at 7:57 PM, nicecast said:

I got tired of he insanity of the 2200 bilge access... so I cut a pie hole in the bottom of my rear center livewell. It is directly above my bilge pump and makes accessing it easy as pie. Not a drop of water leaks in there when the livewell is in use... and even if it did, it would leak onto my new, easily accessible Rule 1500 GPH pump and heavy duty cylinder-style float switch!

Someone asked me to post a pic - and here it is. Still doesn't leak a drop. It IS certainly intimidating to cut into the floor of your main livewell - so cut carefully and use plenty of 5200:D

IMG_4095.JPG

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14 hours ago, nicecast said:

Someone asked me to post a pic - and here it is. Still doesn't leak a drop. It IS certainly intimidating to cut into the floor of your main livewell - so cut carefully and use plenty of 5200:D

IMG_4095.JPG

I did the exact same thing and made life so easy.  I didn't have as many worries because I have a 50gal stand up well where my leaning post was so my center well is retired.  

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