rubble Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 A few years after I purchased my Pathy I moticed that the hatch lits were cracking. Had a dealer in FL repair some of the worst cracks but some were around the hinges. Had one hing break off and need to get repaired or replace the lids. Is this something that can be repaired or can I order replacement lids? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Man, hate to see that. Any good glass guy can fix that, but they should reinforce the inside. Additionally, is there any mechanism on the inside like a gas shock or strap to take the stress off the hinges when the door is open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhinshoreangler Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 A good glass guy can repair them. I had one of mine repaired a couple years ago and it has held up great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Had one busted just like yours. A glass man repaired it, and you can't tell it was ever there. I later added a gas shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubble Posted January 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I've got the old Nylon Straps. Maybe i'll need to invest in the gas shocks. What kind should I be looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I ordered mine from Ray at Maverick Boat Group through a dealer. They are Ameritool, 30 lbs, 15 inch extended, 9 inch compressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth move Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 2 hours ago, JEM said: I ordered mine from Ray at Maverick Boat Group through a dealer. They are Ameritool, 30 lbs, 15 inch extended, 9 inch compressed. i got the 30 lb and they got weak after about 16 months. i'm reordering 60 lb'ers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert3 Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 On January 2, 2017 at 10:46 PM, smooth move said: i got the 30 lb and they got weak after about 16 months. i'm reordering 60 lb'ers. I wouldn't do that... The 60lb gas shock will tear out mounting bracket screws. Trust me ,I've been battling this for a year. Both my front hatches tore the strut mount off. 5 ss screws and 5200 adhesive, was used from factory. Still tore them out. Now I am trying panel adhesive to attach the bracket, A fiberglass guy told me to do this..Or he said to thru bolt. He said, and I agree, there should be an aluminum backing plate tapped and screwed inside the glass.. I thought about using a plunge router to hog out area, then glass in a backing plate flush with inside of hatch.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 According to Pathfinder, they put some backing material (a phenolic material, supposedly with the same screw retention ability as aluminum) in the lids where the hinges, shocks, etc. go. It's not drilled and tapped aluminum, however (I agree that would be a lot better, but more expensive). You can see them placing the material in the lids in their video on their hatch lids. I am not sure when they started putting in the backing material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 thru bolt after repair, jmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 I agree with Robert3, you need just enough gas shock to hold the door open. Anything more just puts unnecessary stress on the attachment points. You might even think about using a spring assist since you don't really need help opening the hatch, you just need something to stabilize the hatch in the open position. I've used them on several boats. They are inexpensive and last for ever. The link is an example. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sea-dog-stainless-steel-hatch-spring.html?gdffi=facc80a89aaa41289ca25f0e582c289c&gdfms=0BE7B507ED064A5798DA803D1A7B9AEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert3 Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 5 hours ago, JEM said: According to Pathfinder, they put some backing material in the lids where the hinges, etc. go. It's not aluminum, however (I agree that it should be). You can see them placing the material in the lids in their video on their hatch lids. I am not sure when they started putting in the backing material. On this boat the hinges on those big front hatches use a threaded pronged nutsert sort of thing, and machine screws. Those inserts have prongs that are pressed into the back side of the hatch. They work great, since the the tighter the screw, the tighter the prongs dig in. I hate to through bolt, as it is thru the non slip and would need a backer plate on top that won't be flush. IMO not the solution.. In the Motorhome industry they bond the fiberglass noses on to metal frames with 3m panel adhesive. This is what I will use with the 5 screws. Fingers crossed.. The front rod locker hatches come from the factory with 60 lb gas lift assist struts. They need the power to hold them open, so we won't get konked on the head.. It was engineered that way. They are big hatches.. The others are all 30lb struts. i actually added another strut to them 60lb, it was like an ejector seat once the lock was turned... I promptly removed them.. ill post how this solution worked after a couple weeks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert3 Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 2 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said: I agree with Robert3, you need just enough gas shock to hold the door open. Anything more just puts unnecessary stress on the attachment points. You might even think about using a spring assist since you don't really need help opening the hatch, you just need something to stabilize the hatch in the open position. I've used them on several boats. They are inexpensive and last for ever. The link is an example. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sea-dog-stainless-steel-hatch-spring.html?gdffi=facc80a89aaa41289ca25f0e582c289c&gdfms=0BE7B507ED064A5798DA803D1A7B9AEC This might be the solution. Remove gas struts, and install holders.. After all I've have been using them without struts for months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEM Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 On 1/4/2017 at 0:53 PM, Robert3 said: On this boat the hinges on those big front hatches use a threaded pronged nutsert sort of thing, and machine screws. Those inserts have prongs that are pressed into the back side of the hatch. They work great, since the the tighter the screw, the tighter the prongs dig in. I hate to through bolt, as it is thru the non slip and would need a backer plate on top that won't be flush. IMO not the solution.. In the Motorhome industry they bond the fiberglass noses on to metal frames with 3m panel adhesive. This is what I will use with the 5 screws. Fingers crossed.. The front rod locker hatches come from the factory with 60 lb gas lift assist struts. They need the power to hold them open, so we won't get konked on the head.. It was engineered that way. They are big hatches.. The others are all 30lb struts. i actually added another strut to them 60lb, it was like an ejector seat once the lock was turned... I promptly removed them.. ill post how this solution worked after a couple weeks.. Your rod locker hatch lids must be like the TE boats, they hinge at the forward edge of the lid. I can see where they might need the 60 lb shock. On my older 2200V, the 30 lb shocks are working great so far. I twist open the latch, and they smoothly raise the lid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth move Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 9 hours ago, Robert3 said: I wouldn't do that... The 60lb gas shock will tear out mounting bracket screws. Trust me ,I've been battling this for a year. Both my front hatches tore the strut mount off. 5 ss screws and 5200 adhesive, was used from factory. Still tore them out. Now I am trying panel adhesive to attach the bracket, A fiberglass guy told me to do this..Or he said to thru bolt. He said, and I agree, there should be an aluminum backing plate tapped and screwed inside the glass.. I thought about using a plunge router to hog out area, then glass in a backing plate flush with inside of hatch.. thanks for the heads up. my boat is and 02 model and didn't come with shocks, i redid my front deck and changed the direction that the hatches opened. now they open long ways instead of the original sideways. i thru bolted everything. i think(hope )everything holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 comment, I only thru bolt hinges if the bolts cannot be seen. like the spring supports, have used them without a problem, less $ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert3 Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 Okay got the panel adhesive and reattached the bracket to the bottom of hatches. I used ss screws as a clamp and let it rest for 24 hrs. This stuff is black, I'll sand and paint it.. this is a solution! This is stuff looks as if it'll do the trick without all the regamoroe. It'll take time to see he long term performance, but a good fiberglass guy swears by it and so do all the auto, and Motorhome industries. for as big as those front hatches are, they a pretty light..the layup is pretty thick, but not structural. Thru bolting is difficult without compromising water intrusion.. Just my opinion... Take care . Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 through bolting, water intrusion, just use sealant like any other project. fin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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