Jump to content

Dumb Electrical Question


Paid Up

Recommended Posts

I have been racking my brain on this one and thought i would ask the dumb question before making cuts on electrical wires.

I have had 3 batteries in the console for years and never had this problem until recently.  I have the blue sea battery switch.  When I would go to start the motor it would drag like I had a bad battery and will normally start but throughout the day it would 90% of the time drag like the starting battery was dead.  If I switch to both batteries it would start right up.  I just put 3 brand new group 27 batteries in the boat which I have always used with no problems.  I am thinking when I put it on both batteries it is giving it enough cranking amps to bypass and bad connection.

So I checked the voltage and the batteries and the starter when trying to start.  At the battery, switch and starter I have the same voltage with no drop.  Now when I put the power to it the voltage on the starter drops to about 7 to 8 amps.  So I believe my battery and switch is good and the positive line from the switch to the starter could be bad.  I straight wired from the battery to the starter and the motor and amp seem to be fine.  I have checked all wire connections with no corrosion at all.  So I am thinking the end under the console that was crimped on and then heat shrunk could have corrosion that cannot be seen.  So my issue is I am fishing in a backwoods town and will have to drive 2 hours round trip to put a new connector on the power cable.  

Has anyone had this issue?

Any thoughts?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your batteries are new as you said, the problem is poor conductivity whether its a loose ground or bad connection.  Check all your ground connections on the motor as well as in the boat making sure they are tight and clean before you make the drive for the new connector.  If you can, check the continuity of all your switches and your wires to make sure you have good current flow throughout.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a similar issue with my 2000V.  I would switch to both battery's and everything would work correctly.  Then I noticed if I tried the key switch a couple of times, my motor would crank normally.  The problem doesn't occur every trip.

I've checked the batteries,  cleaned all the battery connections and motor grounds with no improvement.  That's why I think it could be my switch.

The boats going to my dealer Wed for a balancer replacement and I will ask my mechanic about my issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Dawgfan said:

If your batteries are new as you said, the problem is poor conductivity whether its a loose ground or bad connection.  Check all your ground connections on the motor as well as in the boat making sure they are tight and clean before you make the drive for the new connector.  If you can, check the continuity of all your switches and your wires to make sure you have good current flow throughout.  

X2...check all your connections....meaning, they have to be "torqued" down...not just tight...if you are using wing nuts on the batteries, remove and get bolts and crank them down....also, check your cables to be sure they ends where they are crimped, have not come loose..that will cause you a voltage drop.

Lastly, check the blue seas...if you have a crack somewhere or a slight damage to the connection..this will cause it...

Electrical gremlins are never easy to find !!!

 

dc

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a F150 on a 20 ft. Pathfinder that had problems starting as well.  I sold it before I ever really found a solution.

In September of last year, there were some posts regarding F150 starting problems.  The post was titled, F150 starting problems.  Anyway, at the end of the string of posts, the owner found a solution and posted this:  

Fixed it. Starter relay. $103.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what you say is it starts but drags on #1 but is strong on 1:2 

What does it do strictly on #2

If it starts strong #2 then I would swap connections on #1 and#2. If #1 is now strong then and #2 drags the problem is in the wiring of the original #1 setup. 

If #1 position still drags then most likely it's the switch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem has been solved.  I paid a good rigger years ago to move the batteries to the console and on the original starting positive and negative wire he spliced it from 2 gauge to 4 gauge under the deck and then did not heat shrink it and over time corrosion built up and not a good connection

Just an FYI - A pathfinder/Yamaha dealer told me 4 gauge was plenty, after 20 foot of 4 gauge wire pulled and hooked up - same problem.  I then got 20 foot of 2 gauge wire and pulled it and problem solved.

It still amazes me that a rigger would splice the originally wires with 4 gauge and the not heat shrink it, I guess he wanted to cut corners.  

As we all know if it is always better to have a wire with no splices in it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...