dcathey Posted March 12, 2017 Report Posted March 12, 2017 I've read through tons of other posts but couldn't find exactly what my problem is. On my new to me 06 22, the bilge pump looks fairly new and pumps great on the switch. My problem is I have no auto bilge. Stuck my hand down there and the float turns but pump won't kick on. The pump is an Atwood Sahara 4511. I followed the brown wires into the black covering but didn't start clipping zip ties yet. Where would that constant power be hooked up at so I can check that first before pulling open that bundle of wires. I checked 3 fuses around switch, checked all fuses on panel in console. Could it be wired up to switch panel somewhere? Need some input on this issue from some guys with older hulls. Thanks in advance
smilemaker Posted March 12, 2017 Report Posted March 12, 2017 The brown/white wire goes to the switch while the solid brown should have an inline fuse and its own direct connection to the battery Try to follow the brown and see you can trace it to a fuse or circuit breaker. also see if it is a mechanical/float switch or an electrical resistance type switch, either way they need to be cleaned now and then
dcathey Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Posted March 13, 2017 ill see what I can find tomorrow. If I can't trace it easily is it wise to just cut it by the butt connector and see if wire has juice? That would tell me if its pump side or wiring side , right?
smilemaker Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 That would work if you feel confident on placing a good butt joint. Plenty of info here do do it well
dcathey Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Posted March 13, 2017 I meant to say that there is not a connection on the battery other than onboard charger which is why I didn't know if there was a certain location that these are typically hooked up
imsnookyrd Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 The brown wire should be connected to the battery on/off switch. There should be a fuse holder mounted very near the switch in the bilge.
smilemaker Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 I would not recommend taking the automatic function to the switch. The purpose of the automatic function is to protect the boat when not monitored. If at a dock overnight and you cut the power off you no longer have the pump if something happens. Go straight to the battery with appropriate fuse.
imsnookyrd Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 The brown is connected to the hot side that goes to the battery, that way it is always hot even when the switch is off.
JEM Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 15 hours ago, smilemaker said: The brown/white wire goes to the switch while the solid brown should have an inline fuse and its own direct connection to the battery Try to follow the brown and see you can trace it to a fuse or circuit breaker. also see if it is a mechanical/float switch or an electrical resistance type switch, either way they need to be cleaned now and then I looked up the wiring diagram for the Attwood auto pump. Actually, you have it just backwards. The brown/white wire is the manual switch wire, while the solid brown in the "automatic" wire. So, the brown could go directly to the battery with an inline fuse.
smilemaker Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 Please reread my post There is only one switch and as I said it gets the brown/white wire. The solid brown should have a fuse and direct connection to the battery. No running it to the fuse panel.
MPFit Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 Smilemakers right. If there isn't already a fused connection to battery hot, you need to connect one with the appropriate sized fuse. If there is already a connection; simply check the fuse. Good luck!
JEM Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 Ooops! I must be working too much. I thought you have the brown/white going to the batt. Sorry.
hurricane Posted March 13, 2017 Report Posted March 13, 2017 If its not an inline waterproof fuse holder, look for those small rectangle shaped resetable circuit breaker. If you have the circuit breaker replace it, they ***.
dcathey Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Posted March 13, 2017 I have power at the wire, I'm going to replace pump, not excited about it but I can pop other pump up and reuse housing that's screwed to starboard. Getting the hose on looks to be tough
Bamaskeet Posted March 17, 2017 Report Posted March 17, 2017 I had the same problem, pump would work on dash switch but not on the auto/float switch. Like you, I check fuse first and then cut the brown wire and had power, so that confirmed I had a bad pump. Luckly I had bought an old style Rule pump a few years ago figuring this day would come, Since my 2000V is a 2005, the first thing I had to do is cut out the small round inspection plate and replace it with a rectangular waterproof hatch. I bought the new hatch on eBay. Then I unclipped the pump from its base and pulled it free, so I could unscrew the radiator clamp holding the bilge pump hose. The hose would not come free from the pump so I carefully used a heat gun to break the bond. The old pump was nasty. Installing the new pump is pretty straight forward. One tip is to soap up the new pump's outlet so it will slide easily on to the hose.
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