WildBlueUnder Posted March 31, 2017 Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Seems I recall someone posted that their front/side hatch covers were covered with Seadek but I can't find it on a search. If a picture can be posted that woiuld be great....and also, is installing the Seadek a DIY kind of thing or would it need to be done at a dealer? Thanks! Tony in Tampa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Jazzy Posted March 31, 2017 Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Can't help with the first part but I did instal my Seadek myself and it's pretty easy, just peel and stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBlueUnder Posted April 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 Miss Jazzy~ Thanks for your input. I'm not so much concerned with the peel an stick part of the installation but rather conforming a piece of Seadek to the raw underlayment that is the support for the cushion over the hatch. Hopefully someone has done that installation and can send a photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 Not mine....but here is some pics of a Pathfinder with SeaDek on hatches... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBlueUnder Posted April 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 Thanks Fishmanji Mine are the older covers that curve at the inside but the ones you sent are helpful. Still hope to fine the older style if possible. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Tony, Not sure how your 22' is laid out, but my 1900v is a 2002 model. I just did this on my boat. I knew the bases were made of expanded poly foam (not sure tech name) that wouldn't come close to holding my weight. I bought some 3/4" Starboard from Boat Outfitters, as they had the best price and shipping wasn't terrible. That and I could get it cut to the rough dimensions I needed, which I think was 14"x42", which saved some cash. I gave myself some wiggle room of course....I took one seat out and took the vinyl and foam off, 354,678 staples later, I had my template. I traced my template onto my piece of Starboard and was ready to cut...remember to flip your template for the port and Starboard sides...don't make two of one or the other on accident. I intended to make my cuts on the table saw, but then remembered there is that slight curve on the outer side of each piece, so jig saw it was. I obviously used the straight edge of the Starboard for the hinge side. The jig saw cut really well! Be slow and smooth, mistakes can be sanded out just fine. If my router hadn't taken a dump, I would have used that with a template. Once I made my cuts, I test fit the pieces and located my hinges holes and where I would install my t-nuts. I reused the ones that came on my old pieces. I didn't want my Seadek to have a lump it it where the t-nuts were, so I counter sunk the "blind side" with a 3/4" spade bit in my drill. I just went a few revs and checked depth until it sat flush. Don't drill the big holes prior to this step, just pilot holes. You will need something to locate the tip of the spade bit.drill your holes a size bigger than the OD of the t-nut, then install. Remember, these install from the blind side (the top you'll be walking/sitting on) so ensure you get them right the first time. I also didn't want the open holes from the tops of the t-nuts to cause my Seadek to have a duvet in it.....I have issues, I know. I took some q-tip's and ran them in from the screw/hinge side to block off the threads, and covered the holes with 2 part marine epoxy. Once it set it up, I hit the excess with my angle grinder and then finish sanded with my palm sander. I ended up going over the whole side that was getting Seadek with 80 grit to promote adhesion. After that I gave the top side a bath with acetone. I was ready for Seadek. To say I was hesitant to cut a $200 dollar sheet of Seadek with a razor knife is an understatement. I thought the stuff would be tough to cut by hand...so much so I bought another router just to make these cuts...but I did it by hand. I traced the same template I used for the Starboard pieces, and got to work with a fresh razor. It cut really easily! I gave myself a little room here too, probably an 1/8" all the way around. The hardest part was sticking it to the Starboard squarely. Once I stuck it, I put some gallon water jugs on it and let it set for a day or two. Again, Starboard is slick, even when sanded, so I wanted to give the Seadek a chance. I took some scrap Starboard and Seadek and made a test piece to set the depth I want to route my edges at. Keep the excess Seadek on there, the router will flush the edge with a bearing guided bit. My results, according to friends who have seen it, are "factory". I can nit pick it, but I'm pleased with my outcome. Oh, I cut the holes with a hole saw the diameter of my new latches. The Starboard does not like that heat from a hole saw at all! It's doable, but there are better ways I'm sure . Im not sure if this information is what you were looking for, but I'm not erasing it now. A few pics below. I also replaced my hinges with Gemlux friction hinges and the compression latches with Gemlux pieces too. I got the hardware off their discounted section and saved a ton! My rig is super dirty in the finished pic and the leaning post is out. She's going through a minor facelift now and I'm almost done. That will be a different thread though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBlueUnder Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Brad: I'm not sure what is more impressive.....your tremendous job of covering the hatch covers with Seadek or your detailed and thorough explanation of it!!! Your work is at the level I would expect from a professional shop, and yes, I'd be happy if that work was what I had paid big bucks for. It's precisely what I had in mind to do, however next week I will be picking up my hatch covers and leaning post bolster from a shop here in Tampa since I ultimately gave up on the notion of covering them myself. Had I had your post perhaps that would have given me the confidence to do it myself. Truly impressive and skilled work! I'm sure many others will benefit from your post and thank you for doing it. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Thank you for the kind words, Tony. That's the first time I've ever posted more than a sentence with the iPad, what a pain to type on! Sorry I didn't see your post in time to save you some cash. I'm sure what you had done will look great! I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your rig when it's back together. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBlueUnder Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 I'll post photos once the hatch covers and leaning post are in place. Thanks again and who knows, when my new cushions go south I might end up doing what you did to yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 Brad : very nice job ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TP13 Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 On 4/27/2017 at 10:20 PM, BradM said: Tony, Not sure how your 22' is laid out, but my 1900v is a 2002 model. I just did this on my boat. I knew the bases were made of expanded poly foam (not sure tech name) that wouldn't come close to holding my weight. I bought some 3/4" Starboard from Boat Outfitters, as they had the best price and shipping wasn't terrible. That and I could get it cut to the rough dimensions I needed, which I think was 14"x42", which saved some cash. I gave myself some wiggle room of course....I took one seat out and took the vinyl and foam off, 354,678 staples later, I had my template. I traced my template onto my piece of Starboard and was ready to cut...remember to flip your template for the port and Starboard sides...don't make two of one or the other on accident. I intended to make my cuts on the table saw, but then remembered there is that slight curve on the outer side of each piece, so jig saw it was. I obviously used the straight edge of the Starboard for the hinge side. The jig saw cut really well! Be slow and smooth, mistakes can be sanded out just fine. If my router hadn't taken a dump, I would have used that with a template. Once I made my cuts, I test fit the pieces and located my hinges holes and where I would install my t-nuts. I reused the ones that came on my old pieces. I didn't want my Seadek to have a lump it it where the t-nuts were, so I counter sunk the "blind side" with a 3/4" spade bit in my drill. I just went a few revs and checked depth until it sat flush. Don't drill the big holes prior to this step, just pilot holes. You will need something to locate the tip of the spade bit.drill your holes a size bigger than the OD of the t-nut, then install. Remember, these install from the blind side (the top you'll be walking/sitting on) so ensure you get them right the first time. I also didn't want the open holes from the tops of the t-nuts to cause my Seadek to have a duvet in it.....I have issues, I know. I took some q-tip's and ran them in from the screw/hinge side to block off the threads, and covered the holes with 2 part marine epoxy. Once it set it up, I hit the excess with my angle grinder and then finish sanded with my palm sander. I ended up going over the whole side that was getting Seadek with 80 grit to promote adhesion. After that I gave the top side a bath with acetone. I was ready for Seadek. To say I was hesitant to cut a $200 dollar sheet of Seadek with a razor knife is an understatement. I thought the stuff would be tough to cut by hand...so much so I bought another router just to make these cuts...but I did it by hand. I traced the same template I used for the Starboard pieces, and got to work with a fresh razor. It cut really easily! I gave myself a little room here too, probably an 1/8" all the way around. The hardest part was sticking it to the Starboard squarely. Once I stuck it, I put some gallon water jugs on it and let it set for a day or two. Again, Starboard is slick, even when sanded, so I wanted to give the Seadek a chance. I took some scrap Starboard and Seadek and made a test piece to set the depth I want to route my edges at. Keep the excess Seadek on there, the router will flush the edge with a bearing guided bit. My results, according to friends who have seen it, are "factory". I can nit pick it, but I'm pleased with my outcome. Oh, I cut the holes with a hole saw the diameter of my new latches. The Starboard does not like that heat from a hole saw at all! It's doable, but there are better ways I'm sure . Im not sure if this information is what you were looking for, but I'm not erasing it now. A few pics below. I also replaced my hinges with Gemlux friction hinges and the compression latches with Gemlux pieces too. I got the hardware off their discounted section and saved a ton! My rig is super dirty in the finished pic and the leaning post is out. She's going through a minor facelift now and I'm almost done. That will be a different thread though. Great job on this. I've been thinking of doing this exact same thing. Glad to see it works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfish Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Brad, I so wish you had done this before I sold mine. I so woulda come over and taken them for my boat! very nice work, could prob make em to order and sell quite a few Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradM Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Thanks! Ive thought about it quite a bit, but you know how finding free time is with a kid these days. It was embarrassingly dirty in that pic because I was still buttoning up a bunch of stuff. I know I sent you a pic already, but for those who haven't seen it all done.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishmanjj Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Very nice ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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