Moving Batteries to Console

[Mike45q]

Does anyone who has done this have a checklist or documented what needs to be done to move the cranking battery(batteries) to the console of a Pathfinder 22V?  The mechanic added a house battery in the stern when I got a new motor and trolling motor. He removed the oil tank when  the two stroke motor was replaced with a four stroke. It was part of the new motor installation that I did not realize was in the scope. The original wiring  was installed by Fort Myers Marine and used one of the trolling motor batteries in the console to back up the cracking battery in the stern. The "Hobo" wiring was removed and replaced with two trolling motor battery in the console and two batteries in the stern.

Seems to make sense to move the cranking batteries to the console but i have some questions and concerns:.

Do i go back to Hobo wiring and eliminate one battery?

Do I move the battery switch also?

Do I need to  run a separate hot wire to bilge for the float switch on the bilge pump? ( the float switch is current direct from the battery bypassing the switch) Boat is on a lift.

Do I splce wire or use Junction Connectors or Buses?

Thanks in advance

Mike

[FLDXT]

Why do you need 2 batteries for your house and starting? Seems like an overkill or are you running a 36V TM and one house/starting?

[Bamaskeet]

I have found Hobo's three battery setup to work very well.  I run 3 group 31 AGM batteries.  (I buy them at SAMs)

Most people have a positive and negative post in the starboard rigging locker when they move their cranking battery to the console.  That's where you pickup the power for your auto bilge pump circuit on a separate fuse.

[fishmanjj]

i have 5 batteries in console of 22 PF.  3 dedicated to 36 volt TM only and on a separate 3 bank MK on board charger and not wired into engine.

 The other 2 wired into engine with one starting and one Deep Cycle for both livewells, also a Guest 2 bank on board charger for those 2 batteries.

before anybody ask ; it was already rigged that way when I bought it ...previous owner said he was advised that the Yamaha F150 cannot charge that many batteries with battery selector on "all" so he decided to just keep two position battery selector switch for start and deep cycle batteries and keep TM separate. So far in two years, it works just fine. So, my Georgia redneck instincts say. " if it ain't broke - don't fix it" ... I fish the boat almost every weekend, TM gets a lot of use, sometimes back to back days, so when I come home, I plug both on board chargers in every time and let the batteries get back to full charge ..so far..no problems, all 5 batteries are Deka brand. TM's are 31's...and other 2 are 27's.  

[Lowcountry Joe]

Before you move anything I would consider a Stealth charging system, or other systems, and wire the batteries in the console accordingly.  Moving the batteries to the console isn't super difficult but it does require longer battery cables fished from the console to the starboard rigging area. I also moved my battery switch to the console at the same time.

[polliwog]

I have my TM batteries in the console and Starter battery in the rear starboard locker.,but I use a 24v TM.  I don't think you need an extra Battery for the house/starter as long as you keep the starter  battery powered up.  The outboard will not have enough power to charge all of .those batteries,so the on board charger will be needed at the end of the trip. 

If you are concerned about the starting battery getting to low just get one of the lithium power packs that are compact and powerful to use as a jumper.  They are made to start motors as big as V8 350 cu in displacement engines.  $75 will do the trick.