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FYI / Buffing Compound


RipTide

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For you folks that have heavily oxidized hulls I STRONGLY recommend,

Aqua Blue 100 = $47.30/gal
http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-paintin...F25&startrow=0

Equivalent to 600 grit sandpaper to start & breaks down to a micro polish.
Leaves a mirror finish when properly used.
Start out slowly until it breaks down to the polish stage and increase the buffer speed to bring out the glow.

I personally have used & still use it.
Stuff "IS" the bomb at half the price of the rest of the products out on the market.
All the boat yards and marinas around our neck of the woods use it.

See you all again next year. :)

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I've always used 3M products up until about a 2 years ago.

Local Fiberlay rep whom I've known for 20+ years recommended it.

Don't over apply the compound, that seems to be most peoples issues with a good product not working properly, that and not keeping their buffing pads cleaned.

I use my pads until they start to get clotted up, then remove from buffer and spray out with a hose.

Set to the side to dry out and throw a clean pad on the buffer to continue.

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Get a couple good quality wool round up pads.

For the tight spots I use a Makita variable speed angle drill and 3" wool round up pads.

To get the pads squeaky clean I hose them out and then throw them in a bucket of water for a little bit to finish softening up the baked on crust.

Remove them from the bucket after a short while, spray with a hose, spin off the excess water and let dry in the sun.

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Per the instructions on the buckets

Aqua Blue 100

Will remove scratches equivalent to W/D 600.

Use 100% wool, 4 ply pad for best results.

Apply w/ a wet sponge or cloth. (I just use a 3" chip brush but do it in the shade when possible.)

Buffer speed - (1750-2400rpm's) If you apply the correct amount of compound (not OD-ing it) you won't need to mist the applied surface.

 

On dark colored hulls I would recommend using a Lambswool pad. Softer and will leave less swirl marks if your not very experienced in operating a buffer.

If you do end up with swirl marks, chase it with Aqua Blue 200 using a Lambswool (yellow) pad or a black waffled foam polishing pad.

Everything else about the 200 is the same as the 100.

White hulls are a lot more forgiving in noticeable swirl marks so the 200 won't really be necessary, unless your OCD, like myself. :D

 

 

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1 other suggestion.

Love bug time is upon us. Their highly acidic and if they take a poo or die on the boat it will eat right through the wax, unless you have 4 or more coats applied.

After I buff out I have been applying Nu Finish Once A Year sealant to the surface and then a coat of wax over that.

The Nu Finish will protect your gel coat surfaces from becoming stained due the acidic levels of the bug stuff. 

 

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What your seeing is a result from the Aqua Blue 100 and the Nu Finish sealer I mentioned.

This hull was BADLY oxidized. In fact, I don't think the original owner whom I purchased the boat from ever had it buffed.

Boat is shining like a new vessel.

Starboard.JPG

IMG_3789.JPG

STB Gunnel OS.JPG

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