Performance Expectations

[Esteban]

I'm a new owner of a Redfisher 16 and admittedly a newbie to owning a true flats boat.  As such, I'm not totally familiar or comfortable yet with how to run this boat to achieve optimum performance.  For example, I'm not sure how shallow I can safely run this boat (I would rarely fish in anything less than 18" but might want to run shallower at times to get to some out of the way places), nor do I know the best setting for my trim tabs for running shallow and/or fast.  I have a 90 hp Yamaha on the back and I don't have a jack plate or setback bracket.  So, my questions would be, how shallow can I safely run this boat, and when running shallow I know I will run with the motor trimmed up about as far as possible but do I keep the trim tabs down to keep the boat flat or tabs up to keep the bow up and more of the boat out of the water?  Please bear with me, I'm just trying to learn from others that have more experience than I do.  I appreciate any responses.

[lurem]

Take your boat out and fish like normal. Experiment with using the trim tabs and motor trim in combination to achieve the best attitude for the water conditions you are in as the change constantly. Sometimes small adjustments are all that are needed. After several times out you will get the feel of what your boat likes and be able to find the sweet spot. With more confidence you will try shallower areas for running and getting on plane. It is all trial and error, I can say I have been stuck on a sandbar and touched bottom while running shallow as I think most of us on here can. I have also come out of some areas that I didn't think I could get out if or get to until I tried.

Have fun and be safe.

[lurem]

16 hours ago, Esteban said:

when running shallow I know I will run with the motor trimmed up about as far as possible but do I keep the trim tabs down to keep the boat flat or tabs up to keep the bow up and more of the boat out of the water?

for this you can do it two ways, tabs up and motor up to get as much of the boat as you can out of the water or trim the engine up and barely touch the tabs to bring the nose down and touch so you can steer in turns. You can run the tabs all the way down but your speed will suffer. Try it different ways in deeper water until you get the hang of it.

 

[geeviam]

Even with the motor mounted all the way down on the transom, the prop does not hang down much lower than the keel of the hull on a late model Redfisher 16.  The engine is able to run in shallower water and the prop still maintains grip, because the transom has built-in setback (a large transom pocket) that allows the motor to be mounted higher.  Like Lurem said, with time and trial, you will become familiar with how your boat handles, with tabs and trim.  Small adjustments are better than big ones.  IMO, another important thing to remember is: Always watch and be aware of changes in water color.  Even if the water is coffee brown, the shallow flat with be a different shade of brown.  It's hard to explain, and a judgement call in the moment, but there will come a time when you realize that you're too shallow, but if you pull back on the throttle, you will be stuck for sure.  If the remaining water color on the flat ahead doesn't change, and you can see deeper water within a short distance, GO FOR IT!  Gun the throttle, trim up high, and throw a rooster tail (tabs not needed).  Make sure your water pump keeps cooling the engine though. If instead of mud/sand, you're crossing a rocky coral reef flat, disregard what I just said - there's no help for you and you will probably be buying a new prop and skeg repair kit soon.  Good polarized sunglasses are a must, needless to say.

Edit: Linesider's post was a reminder that we all should be mindful of seagrass on the flats and do our best to preserve it.  Thanks.

[linesider 159]

Only way to find out is to go out and try it on an incoming tide. In a slower v hull boat the best is to lay one trim tab down and make the boat lean to the side while trimming the motor up some.

The reason i say a slower boat is because my boats usually run in the 60's and when going really really shallow i hammer wide open and trim way up and just dont stop unless the bottom makes me (Not in seagrass). This gets the hull and motor out of the water, not to mention momentum on your side.

2 weeks ago i took a ranger banshee tunnel hull to pine island sound/charlotte harbor and realized that as long as there was water the boat would run it, which was a little scary the first time! But like others said i never would have known until i tried.

[Esteban]

Thanks for the replies everyone.  As I thought, experience will be the best teacher with this boat.  I've been fishing the salt for over 30 years and as such am well aware of the nuances in color and depth.  However, I've never had a true flats boat, specifically one that has trim tabs, so thought I'd pick the brains of those that have much more experience that I.  I will do the trial an error thing (hopefully more trial than error) as that's the best way to learn.  I will endeavor to persevere...and hope I don't lose a lower unit in the process.  Thanks to all.

[polliwog]

Boat yards love us ! Plenty of replacement business.  Just don't hit an oyster in the back country where there is no help available.  It will be painful and expensive.

I go through new areas at low tide or rising tide poling and see where the trouble is.  GPS tracker can keep you memory sharper LOL