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Anti Siphon Valve


Edgeag85

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I recently purchased a 2004 2200 Tournament Edition.  We have run it several times and recently noted that at higher RPMs (4k) the engine becomes starved for fuel and shuts down.  At lower RPMs all is ok.  Noted last time that primer bulb was flat.  Reading various posts seems to indicate this is symptom of a bad anti siphon valve.  My issue is that since I am not a mechanic I have no idea where this valve is.  I took the inspection cover off under the console this weekend but didn't see anything that looked like what I should be looking for.  Any help on where, ease in replacing,etc.  Thanks in advance.

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Yep!! It's not very big or obvious. It threads into the outlet on top of the tank and is only about the size of your bird finger. One end has threads and the other end has a barbed fitting that fits inside the fuel supply hose. Remove the hose first, then using two wrenches, hold the fitting nearest to the tank and unthread the valve.  

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You are probably on the right tract. However, if this doesn't solve your problem, I'll give you another possibility that I had on my previous boat. 

Was the boat stored for a period of time with regular gas, i.e. with ethanol? Ethanol will degrade older fuel lines. The degraded fuel line will act like a weak straw. The fuel lines work OK at lower RPMs but will collapse at high RPMs. The solution is to replace the fuel lines and filters. Worked like a charm for my old boat.

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Yep!! Mike is right. A flat bulb indicates a fuel restriction between the bulb and the tank, ( anti-siphon valve, fuel lines, fuel filter ). The anti-siphon valve is usually cheap and easy to change. If that doesn't solve the problem, try a new bulb and fuel filter, then do fuel hoses last. It a matter of elimination by replacing the cheap and easy stuff first.  

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3 hours ago, SCFD rtrd. said:

Yep!! Mike is right. A flat bulb indicates a fuel restriction between the bulb and the tank, ( anti-siphon valve, fuel lines, fuel filter ). The anti-siphon valve is usually cheap and easy to change. If that doesn't solve the problem, try a new bulb and fuel filter, then do fuel hoses last. It a matter of elimination by replacing the cheap and easy stuff first.  

On track...get the good anti-siphon...also, replace the bulb as well...corn juice will eat up the valve inside...i would also blow out the fuel line at the tank when you take off the anti siphon..give it a quick puff from compressed air...open the fuel tank lid...this will be sure nothing is sticking on the sender...change out the fuel lline from the fuel filter to the engine as well...

 

All this will cost you about:

anti-siphon - $6

fuel lines - $10

new bulb- only get an OEM Yamaha do not use after market - $18

new clamps etc. $5

So you are looking at $40 and your done..I did all he above on my new to me 1995 MA 17.

 

now runs perfect.

 

dc

 

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  • 2 years later...
On 4/24/2017 at 4:30 PM, Headhunter said:

It should right at the outlet from the tank. Mine is right at the tee going into the tank and the fuel line connects to the other end of the valve. If should be right under the inspection plate.

on my 2004 22ft Pathfinder there is no tee under inspection plate. two connections I think one is the air vent and other is the fill hoses.  I'm having trouble pumping gas from the fuel tank.

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I’ve got three anti-siphon valves in my tool boxes from previous boats.. I can send you one if you like. They’re not required on boats where the fuel lines, filters, and inlet to the engine are above the top of the fuel tank. If you feel the need to run one, Johnson/Evinrude make, or used to make brass and stainless valves. 

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If you are going to take the time to remove the original anti-siphon valve, replace it with a new one. They are there for a reason. If any part of your fuel system (hoses, filter, bulb, ect) is below the fuel level in the tank and you develop a leak, the contents of the tank will siphon out into your bilge.

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